I have a modern, digital alignment tool but my go to is this:
Works like a champ. Bought it for $100
Works like a champ. Bought it for $100
Current Recommendations On Home Wheel Alignment Equipment?
- Thread starter MDchanic
- Start date
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I use the "Joe's Racing Products" version of this. It works very well, highly repeatable, etc, etc. I've posted before that it made my avatar launch straight, go straight, and be VERY stable at the big end (~120 mph). It drives well on the street also. Additionally, I used it on my 71 show pony Demon too and it drives just fine. My .02.....
MDchanic
Connoisseur d'Junque
Another caster/camber gauge to look into.
Those toe-in plates look like something I could make for a lot less that $80, but then again, would they end up costing $80 of work and annoyance if I did?
I definitely will need turn plates, not only to make turning the wheels easier, but also to make measuring the angle more definite. Yes, I can mark the floor and get it to where I "feel" like it lines up, but I don't like things that are that vague.
I've seen a number of different turn plates advertised, some for considerably less than those.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to whether the cheaper ones would work as well?
Or are they of the "Use once, then discard" variety?
Thanks!
– Eric
MDchanic
Connoisseur d'Junque
Yes, this is straightforward. Accurately measuring the lean angles is the trick.
That ain't gonna happen.
Getting my wife to spend ten minutes helping to bleed the brakes, you'd think she'd been sold into white slavery.
I like this, because I've got a LOT of 2x4s. A few are even straight.
I could probably true a few boards up, then modify them according to the layout of the $80 aluminum toe-in plates mentioned above, and come up with something useful.
Thanks,
– Eric
MDchanic
Connoisseur d'Junque
A more modern version of this is what I used to use back in the '80s and '90s.
I agree – Worked great!
– Eric
MDchanic
Connoisseur d'Junque
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
I use 4 pieces of 1/8” plate and I put salt between them. Read that on a corner carver forum and it works great. I just estimate the 15 degree angle that you turn the wheel and I’ve never had a problem with accuracy. I once used a digital angle finder to “measure” the 15 degrees and my alignment numbers came out the same.
Hysterical. I just told my buddy today that the last time I broached the subject of getting help from my wife bleeding brakes, I got the Black Stormcloud of Death Scowl.
Yep, I've since gone that route.Two words
Hydraulic bleeder...
If I'm going to cash in what she considers a big favor, it'll be for pumping me, not the brake pedal.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I use 2 vinyl kitchen tiles each side, shiny side together, canola, mazola, crisco, whatever between as lube.
Washes up/storage is easy .
Washes up/storage is easy .
Yessir
Used that and string/ washers first go round. I think i did better than paying a shop. Tracks straight. Good tire wear
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I've heard guys make all kinds of cheap DIY turning plates. Two pieces of sheet metal with salt, or grease. Some guys used some kind of tile?? But I don't know what those would be. I scored some old AMMCO plates long ago. Heavy. They work, LOL
I use some string, an angle finder, a 2' level a tape measure and some jack stands.
MDchanic
Connoisseur d'Junque
I've tried the vacuum ones, and have found them completely inadequate, both the hand-pumps (Mit-y-vac), and the compressor-operated ones.
Have not tried one that pushes the fluid from the M/C back, but if it works better than the vacuum ones, I may have to get one. After I get my alignment gear.
– Eric
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
The old "two paper plates with grease between them" routine. Use the coated ones. Cheap as it gets and just toss 'em when you're done.
Big fat tires might be an issue though.
Big fat tires might be an issue though.
grimreaper
Cross Member
I made this and used a digital angle finder for several years before I got the actual alignment gauge in the photo. It can fit to almost any wheels. I also used 12" x 12" linoleum floor tiles for turn plates but have graduated to four 12 x 12 pieces of 1/8" steel. With these and a tape measure I can make most cars drive nicely. I know my alignments take a while but I can have confidence in what my alignment specs end up being.
So all you really need is a means of measuring the angle of your wheels in the positions required for aligning and something to make the wheels turn without pulling against the floor.
So all you really need is a means of measuring the angle of your wheels in the positions required for aligning and something to make the wheels turn without pulling against the floor.
How do you set caster?
Something to consider is rim compensation for rim clamp type fixtures to assure they are on straight and that the wheel isn’t bent. It is more important for toe to check wheel and or tire runout if you are using the tire or wheel as a reference point for measuring toe.
When using turn tables or something under the front tire to aid in turning you should shim the rear tires height by the same amount. The higher the front is raised the more important it is. Or if you don't at least consider how your caster number could be affected. Higher in front equals higher caster numbers.
When using turn tables or something under the front tire to aid in turning you should shim the rear tires height by the same amount. The higher the front is raised the more important it is. Or if you don't at least consider how your caster number could be affected. Higher in front equals higher caster numbers.
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
RE-read what I posted. Caster is not MEASURED. CAMBER (tilt) is measured, and caster is CALCULATED from two readings. No "caster" gauge actually measures caster. The gauge CALCULATES it by the same method. My decades old Ammco caster/ camber gauge works like a circular slide rule.
If you get a good angle/ tilt gauge you can calculate caster
tjpatte
Well-Known Member
I built a trammel (sp?) bar out of some 2”x2” steel square tubing, two carpenters squares, some threaded rod and an aluminum turnbuckle cut in half for adjustment on both ends.
Either got the idea on Corner Carvers or M3 forum. I’ve used it on a mustang Bullitt, M3, Hellcat, the Dart and my Ram.
Either got the idea on Corner Carvers or M3 forum. I’ve used it on a mustang Bullitt, M3, Hellcat, the Dart and my Ram.
For turntables, a couple of HD plastic garbage bags folded over a couple times works VERY well. Don't even have to throw'em away when done. You can still just use'm for the trash! Haha...it's what this cheapskate does....
For the 20 deg angles, I use this...don't laugh, it works! Piano hinge with some straight boards. Wide open (as shown) is 20 deg. One side against the tire, tape the angle on the floor. Spin the steering wheel to the other direction, tape goes on the floor. Now you've got your + and - 20 deg positions and I use a 6' level as my straight edge as I articulate the wheels back and forth to get to the tape lines on the floor with the caster/camber gauge on the spindle.
Make the adjustments, dial in the #'s you want. The challenge is I like to roll the car back and forth and bounce it up and down between adjustments so I have to reset my tape markings. But once done, the numbers are highly repeatable and have worked well for my cars. Call it hillbilly alignments!!
For the 20 deg angles, I use this...don't laugh, it works! Piano hinge with some straight boards. Wide open (as shown) is 20 deg. One side against the tire, tape the angle on the floor. Spin the steering wheel to the other direction, tape goes on the floor. Now you've got your + and - 20 deg positions and I use a 6' level as my straight edge as I articulate the wheels back and forth to get to the tape lines on the floor with the caster/camber gauge on the spindle.
Make the adjustments, dial in the #'s you want. The challenge is I like to roll the car back and forth and bounce it up and down between adjustments so I have to reset my tape markings. But once done, the numbers are highly repeatable and have worked well for my cars. Call it hillbilly alignments!!
MDchanic
Connoisseur d'Junque
I like that angle-device.
I'm thinking about how to make an easily-detachable paddle-like device that could be attached and run across the center (roughly) of the wheel and tire (thus bypassing the "radial roll" at the bottom), and then run along the floor, all in a straight line, for about a foot or two, to clearly indicate the angle.
The longer the arm length (up to the point of being unwieldy), the more accurate, and easier, the measurement.
Also, if one were to extend the lines out along the floor with a laser level, one could use a little bit of trigonometry to determine and adjust toe without actually making under-car measurements (since toe is really just an expression of the tires' angles).
But I'm probably overcomplicating...
– Eric
I'm thinking about how to make an easily-detachable paddle-like device that could be attached and run across the center (roughly) of the wheel and tire (thus bypassing the "radial roll" at the bottom), and then run along the floor, all in a straight line, for about a foot or two, to clearly indicate the angle.
The longer the arm length (up to the point of being unwieldy), the more accurate, and easier, the measurement.
Also, if one were to extend the lines out along the floor with a laser level, one could use a little bit of trigonometry to determine and adjust toe without actually making under-car measurements (since toe is really just an expression of the tires' angles).
But I'm probably overcomplicating...
– Eric
How do calculate the multiplier for different amount of degrees turned? Thank you
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