What If Build Ideas...for Land Speed Racing

-
Probably the first couple of seasons or so will be just working the bugs out and getting to feel right where you feel confident to run these high speeds, then you can focus on the 175 mph then go from there.
You have to talk to the tech guys. They know about licensing. I forget the specifics now. Ted Allen from Calgary, Alberta got licensed and ran a BBC 32 roadster, looking to go 200 MPH. After 3 or 4 years someone let them know to add weight to gain traction. Approaching 200 MPH air drag gets like a brick wall. Eventually they went 200.
 
well my project is a 38 dodge p/u with a de-stroked and sleeved down bore 58 chrysler 392 block to 286 ci , 56 354 heads ported , vertex ign , solid roller cam with t&d rockers , alum alloy billet rods , scc 8-71 blower with two port hilborn throttle body through my custom designed injected intake manifold with inner coolers , red stripe hemi a833 4psd with an od or two , champ quick change , bonny speed sport special 6.50x18's on the rear . looking for two hundred miles per hour . hemi pic for ref , engine is still coming together . still in the build

00060012.jpg


DSC08150.JPG


DSC03449.JPG


just a pile.JPG
 
If my goal was mph and not trying to set a class record I would go for the most CID I could, na or blower. I also think 800hp is about 400 short of 200mph.
The problem is big CID is also typically high torque which is bad at Bonneville. 809-1000 will be plenty. 12-1500 will get you closer to 230-250
 
my bud went 300 plus with two 500 ci cads turbo charged in a liner , he built himself . but he only turns them 5k with a 2 to 1 rear gear . on late 40's 8.00 x 18 old indy tires .
 
well my project is a 38 dodge p/u with a de-stroked and sleeved down bore 58 chrysler 392 block to 286 ci , 56 354 heads ported , vertex ign , solid roller cam with t&d rockers , alum alloy billet rods , scc 8-71 blower with two port hilborn throttle body through my custom designed injected intake manifold with inner coolers , red stripe hemi a833 4psd with an od or two , champ quick change , bonny speed sport special 6.50x18's on the rear . looking for two hundred miles per hour . hemi pic for ref , engine is still coming together . still in the build

View attachment 1716165416

View attachment 1716165417

View attachment 1716165418

View attachment 1716165424
Sweet! Not exactly the most aerodynamic brick. What class are you aiming for? BG??
 
xxo and xo motor classes , but we're trying to get a few more 41 and earlier to want to run their p/u's . we might just build two or more to make the class are self .
 
This is from the SCTA Rule Book. Does this mean the chassis needs to be independently certified? Or do they just approve it? Can someone who certs drag chassis do it?

Side note, I emailed both people listed on SCTA website for car tech and both came back undeliverable.

X2 Side note. Reading more in depth on the requirements on wheels, studs, fire suppression, safety and some of the chassis requirements, it is seemingly more so unlikely this car will ever race. It was a great thought. I guess I will learn as much as I can, and just have a fun street car. Thank you for help, suggestions and encouragements.

20231113_050144.jpg
 
Last edited:
So, the rules for the Texas Mile call out the below statement. So, a starting point may be to find a local drag racing chassis cert person.

ROLL CAGE: All cars that are attempting speeds at or over 215 mph but below 230mph are required to have a NHRA 8.50 suitable type roll cage at minimum meeting the rules for your car build.
 
So, the rules for the Texas Mile call out the below statement. So, a starting point may be to find a local drag racing chassis cert person.

ROLL CAGE: All cars that are attempting speeds at or over 215 mph but below 230mph are required to have a NHRA 8.50 suitable type roll cage at minimum meeting the rules for your car build.
Check out SFI 25.3 or 25.1. Those are what's required to run faster than 7.49 in the 1/4 and what I would want if I was planning to go 200 in the salt.
 
Check out SFI 25.3 or 25.1. Those are what's required to run faster than 7.49 in the 1/4 and what I would want if I was planning to go 200 in the salt.


Trouble there is it has to be chrome moly and Tig welded. I had my Daytona (mild steel) updated to 7.50 back in 2008. My 74 duster is a 6.50 NHRA cert. chrome moly is crazy high in price now.
 
Trouble there is it has to be chrome moly and Tig welded. I had my Daytona (mild steel) updated to 7.50 back in 2008. My 74 duster is a 6.50 NHRA cert. chrome moly is crazy high in price now.
I believe Bonneville, the recommended is mild steel for the added weight. I reached out to a semi local NHRA inspector. See if he replies and go from there.

Fear is setting in that this is just a dumb dream. Just make it a fun car, then build/buy a ready built chassis and have it dedicated to this plan. This is plan B, and may be too late to make it good/safe enough at this point.
 
Trouble there is it has to be chrome moly and Tig welded. I had my Daytona (mild steel) updated to 7.50 back in 2008. My 74 duster is a 6.50 NHRA cert. chrome moly is crazy high in price now.

True, but the SCTA doesn't have any specs and the burden of proof is on the builder. If you design the cage to SFI 25.3 but substitute chromoly for 1-5/8 .120 DOM you might be able to convince tech it's a sufficiently safe design.
 
True, but the SCTA doesn't have any specs and the burden of proof is on the builder. If you design the cage to SFI 25.3 but substitute chromoly for 1-5/8 .120 DOM you might be able to convince tech it's a sufficiently safe design.

You won’t get an NHRA sticker. They test the material
 
This is from the SCTA Rule Book. Does this mean the chassis needs to be independently certified? Or do they just approve it? Can someone who certs drag chassis do it?

Side note, I emailed both people listed on SCTA website for car tech and both came back undeliverable.

X2 Side note. Reading more in depth on the requirements on wheels, studs, fire suppression, safety and some of the chassis requirements, it is seemingly more so unlikely this car will ever race. It was a great thought. I guess I will learn as much as I can, and just have a fun street car. Thank you for help, suggestions and encouragements.

View attachment 1716165973

So, the rules for the Texas Mile call out the below statement. So, a starting point may be to find a local drag racing chassis cert person.

ROLL CAGE: All cars that are attempting speeds at or over 215 mph but below 230mph are required to have a NHRA 8.50 suitable type roll cage at minimum meeting the rules for your car build.
Using regs from a different sactioning body is a trip to disaster. Go to the BNI/SCTA people. Their tech inspectors will give direction. If you can not get a response from those listed on a current rules book, find a competitor and they should be able to steer you to a person to talk to.
Building your chassis and cage stronger will not disqualify you, but not enough stops you in your tracks. With LSR either on the salt or dry lakes, carrying weight is not a problem like in most other racing venues.
 
It sucks to hear that you’re questioning moving forward (with this vehicle, I get it) but don’t let the dream die. Take a step back, visit the salt a few times, talk to racers that have been there and execute a plan. It can be done. Lots of helpful info here;
Landracing Forum - Index
 
I struggle with the 200mph taking such special handling. Safety I can see but drag cars go 200mph in the 1/4 every day. Heck my Daytona ran 160 and it was a super short 87 inch wheelbase car. It handled like a dream at 2500 pounds.
 
I struggle with the 200mph taking such special handling. Safety I can see but drag cars go 200mph in the 1/4 every day. Heck my Daytona ran 160 and it was a super short 87 inch wheelbase car. It handled like a dream at 2500 pounds.
On pavement.
 
It sucks to hear that you’re questioning moving forward (with this vehicle, I get it) but don’t let the dream die. Take a step back, visit the salt a few times, talk to racers that have been there and execute a plan. It can be done. Lots of helpful info here;
Landracing Forum - Index


This

I would think you could buy a chassis off someone wanting to step up cheaper than building one. Drag cars are that way.
 
It sucks to hear that you’re questioning moving forward (with this vehicle, I get it) but don’t let the dream die. Take a step back, visit the salt a few times, talk to racers that have been there and execute a plan. It can be done. Lots of helpful info here;
Landracing Forum - Index
I am on that forum also (read...trying). Starting with a known chassis/car would likely be the way to go, but also wish I could use this one (read I am poor). I just need to know if I am doing Ok or if Hello No!. It would help with the next steps. I reached out to a NHRA chassis cert guy and JoAnne from the SCTA. Maybe someone can shed some light if it is worth chasing this at this time, or just learn and move towards a dedicated chassis for a real trial. It has been an emotional roller coaster for sure....hopes and yes I can at least try and see what it does to... who are you kidding to think to try that...to there is no way it will work. So, that said, is there a way to make the chassis ok? then the rest falls in line, try and also the haters can pound sand. I don't know anymore
 
I also keep remembering so many stock cars back in the day were black plumbing pipe stick welded...just keep adding more bars until it is safe, kinda.
 
I struggle with the 200mph taking such special handling. Safety I can see but drag cars go 200mph in the 1/4 every day. Heck my Daytona ran 160 and it was a super short 87 inch wheelbase car. It handled like a dream at 2500 pounds.
Are you drag racing at 200MPH on a dirt track or sand? Also consider many of these cars get engine changes to run in another class which may provide higher speeds. Some competitors have run one engine two days in a row, aiming for a class record. Then switch the engine to try for another class record.
With LSR, if you set a record speed, you have to back it up the next day. The car is impounded overnight so you can not make changes. The scrutineers will watch as you check the plugs, change oil and maybe rejet the carb(s). BNI/SCTA have a weather station and update the atmospheric conditions so entrants can adjust their tune accordingly. Entrants that set a record speed the day prior get first shot in the morning. They want the cool air which at 0500 may be 80°F. The ice making machines in the hotels are stripped clean by 0400 as people head out to the salt for first light.
 
On pavement.
Put a trip to the salt one August on your bucket list. They run usually the latter half of August as the salt is still wet from spring runoff until then. And hope it does not rain. The salt and dirt under turn to mush if it rains much more than a sprinkle. Think Burning Man this last summer.
 
Put a trip to the salt one August on your bucket list. They run usually the latter half of August as the salt is still wet from spring runoff until then. And hope it does not rain. The salt and dirt under turn to mush if it rains much more than a sprinkle. Think Burning Man this last summer.
If you’re addressing me, I say that because you quoted me, I’ve been to the salt many times and have had to stand there, water up to my ankles and turn around to drive 13 hours home.
 
I am on that forum also (read...trying). Starting with a known chassis/car would likely be the way to go, but also wish I could use this one (read I am poor). I just need to know if I am doing Ok or if Hello No!. It would help with the next steps. I reached out to a NHRA chassis cert guy and JoAnne from the SCTA. Maybe someone can shed some light if it is worth chasing this at this time, or just learn and move towards a dedicated chassis for a real trial. It has been an emotional roller coaster for sure....hopes and yes I can at least try and see what it does to... who are you kidding to think to try that...to there is no way it will work. So, that said, is there a way to make the chassis ok? then the rest falls in line, try and also the haters can pound sand. I don't know anymore
Get a meeting with someone from SCTA tech. Do you want a 200MPH hat or go drive as fast as you can? Remember that this is not NASCAR, IMSA, Champ Car or F1, where they get real serious. Yes they are serious, but much more relaxed. You can walk through the pits and talk to the drivers and pit crew members if they are not busy getting ready for a run. Try that at professional racing events.
The BNI/SCTA people are pretty relaxed. They do not want to discourage you, they want to help you do it right. Realise they deal with teams running cars at over 500MPH. At those speeds any minor failure becomes a life threatening event. They want people safe, realising any speed related event contains risk. Risk management is high on their list oof priorities. When you show up on their doorstep with an interest to compete, they will be more than willing to steer you along. Keep the faith and have fun with this dream. All forms of racing are expensive. LSR can be as expensive as your budget allows or fairly inexpensive. When you want to run with the 'Liner guys at 500+, the 0's on cheques add up. There are classes where 100MPH is doing good.
Finding sponsors helps a lot. Might pay the hotel bill or a couple of meals.
 
-
Back
Top