What is the advantage of a cold air intake?

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98 Ram 1500.

Save your money!

I installed a CAI on my 03 Dodge Ram and it didn't change a damn thing!

I cant remember where but if you drill holes in the stock air box with a drop in KN filter it was same as buying the high dollar cone deal plus kit. They tested it to see the difference another words.
 
Can't vouch for a CAI on old muscle cars, but I can for my daily driver Vibe, 1.8liter 4 banger. Specifically a 9 whp gain (on the dyno) which is quite noticable when you consider the small displacement. Gain is primarily derived from pulling cooler air (behind the lower bumper grill in my case) and a much less restricted airflow..the OE box was terrible. That said, running open elements under our hoods certainly addresses the OE breather restriction. Now how much would we pick up from pulling cooler air from outside the engine bay? I can,t say.

Pat
 
Save your money!

I installed a CAI on my 03 Dodge Ram and it didn't change a damn thing!

I cant remember where but if you drill holes in the stock air box with a drop in KN filter it was same as buying the high dollar cone deal plus kit. They tested it to see the difference another words.

You drill the holes before the air-filter. I did this on both my Dakota and my old 4Runner.

The cost is $0 if you already have the drill bit.


Here are some pics i found on the net. (links should work now)

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm267/mogelfo/OEMAirBoxMod1.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm267/mogelfo/OEMAirBoxMod2.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm267/mogelfo/OEMAirBoxMod3.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm267/mogelfo/OEMAirBoxMod4.jpg
 
There you go JR and that was going to be my last explanation cept I was going to use a jar filled with air out of the fridge and compare it to a jar filled with hot air from outside the house. Because the oxygen molecules in the air from the fridge haven't been bouncing off each other as vigoursly as the air captured in the jar outside. Therefore the cold air from the fridge will have more oxygen molecules (more dense) in it hence to make more horsepower than the stuff ya got from outside.

Now what the hell is condensending about that.

So why doesn't this same principal work on boobies?! The world may never know.:cheers:
 
You drill the holes before the air-filter. I did this on both my Dakota and my old 4Runner.

The cost is $0 if you already have the drill bit.


Here are some pics i found on the net. (links should work now)



Well I be... there you go!

I have a feeling that Plymouth 340 is out in the garage looking for his drill bits! lol
 
For a given volume of air, colder air weighs more than warm or hot air, hence more oxygen molecules occupy the cold air. This because, as someone said previously, cold air’s molecules are packed closer together as they are not moving around as vigorously compared to a warmer sample of air.

The ideal mix of air to gasoline that produces the most complete combustion is called stoichiometric mixture, and is about 14.7 parts air to 1 part gasoline. So the cooler one can get the incoming charge of air (read: more dense; heaver; or more o2 content) the more gasoline can be combined with that air to produce more power.

So if one can eliminate their air filter that has no snorkel or access to cool air, and fabricate some sort of duct system that can directly deliver cool air from outside of engine compartment, the engine will be able to deliver a bit more power.

Take this dense air charge concept to the next level, draw in cold air, compress it with a turbocharger, or supercharger, cool it down before entering engine with a intercooler so that twice the volume of air is forced into combustion chambers… Now twice the fuel has to be added the incoming compressed air charge to maintain stoichiometric mixture. It is like adding displacement to your engine, or in other words turning 340 cid. into 680 cid… if you get my drift…
 
For a given volume of air, colder air weighs more than warm or hot air, hence more oxygen molecules occupy the cold air. This because, as someone said previously, cold air’s molecules are packed closer together as they are not moving around as vigorously compared to a warmer sample of air.

The ideal mix of air to gasoline that produces the most complete combustion is called stoichiometric mixture, and is about 14.7 parts air to 1 part gasoline. So the cooler one can get the incoming charge of air (read: more dense; heaver; or more o2 content) the more gasoline can be combined with that air to produce more power.

So if one can eliminate their air filter that has no snorkel or access to cool air, and fabricate some sort of duct system that can directly deliver cool air from outside of engine compartment, the engine will be able to deliver a bit more power.

Take this dense air charge concept to the next level, draw in cold air, compress it with a turbocharger, or supercharger, cool it down before entering engine with a intercooler so that twice the volume of air is forced into combustion chambers… Now twice the fuel has to be added the incoming compressed air charge to maintain stoichiometric mixture. It is like adding displacement to your engine, or in other words turning 340 cid. into 680 cid… if you get my drift…
 

Anytime you heat something it expands, air included. The cooler the incoming air is the denser it is, MORE OXYGEN! Your car loves oxygen and will make you happier when it gets it! Ahh, somebody beat me to it!
 
Depending on the vehicle itself, power gains can be nil or somewhere around 15 - 25 HP depending on the engine/maker/year of what is being modified. I have noticed from other forums, (In example one place about Dodge Dakota's and Rams) that the V6 Dak's gain nearly nothing on the road. No mileage or power shoving time slips down.

Vette's vipers, Mustangs etc.. show nice RWHP gains for a simple bolt on.

Our old iron will need to have the filter sectioned off from the heat and the inlet of it all moved down low or sealed to the hood so fresh cooler air can get to it via da scoop.
 
I did relocate the IAS closer to the kn filter from the hot intake manifold .... I really didn't see a difference there either. It was suggested so I did it anyway.
 
Good example is when driving the Mopar on a cool day, you will notice a difference in the acceleration from usual, feels like the car has gained extra horsepower.
 
"There is no replacement for displacement."
-unknown author

save your money. just put the largest one on top of the engine that you can afford, that will fit.

if you do not have a hood scoop use one similar to these
http://www.jegs.com/i/K&N/599/66-3040/10002/-1

if you have a hood scoop use one similar to these
http://www.jegs.com/i/K&N/599/60-1270/10002/-1

again they have all different heights/diameters you would want to get the thickest you can and leave 1/2" under your hood
as far as diameter you dont want it so large that it hits other accessories

14" is usually fine and a 2" to 4" inch element
 
the temperature difference will not be as noticeable as a flow difference. bigger=more flow. if you get some cold air kit and it restricts the flow the benefit would be a wash
 
I have been waiting for slantsixdan to jump in and set things straight!
Since he got married I haven't seen him around much, must still be on the honeymoon.

Kenny
 
"There is no replacement for displacement."
-unknown author

save your money. just put the largest one on top of the engine that you can afford, that will fit.

if you do not have a hood scoop use one similar to these
http://www.jegs.com/i/K&N/599/66-3040/10002/-1

if you have a hood scoop use one similar to these
http://www.jegs.com/i/K&N/599/60-1270/10002/-1

again they have all different heights/diameters you would want to get the thickest you can and leave 1/2" under your hood
as far as diameter you dont want it so large that it hits other accessories

14" is usually fine and a 2" to 4" inch element

x2 a filter that draws air through the top as well,will actually slightly increase CFM flow into the engine...
 
And who exactly disproved this myth..I have been doing it for years
so for years you've been timing how long it takes to boil two pots of water, one starting out at say 60F and one starting out at say 120F and the 60F one boils faster because...?
 
Ok I have done this same research with my 98 Ram that I am building. Here is what I came up with from people who have run them. They aren't that much of an improvement. Not for the money. The same gains are being had using an open element like the Mopar Performance one that matchs the Mopar valve covers. Now before you say well isn't it taking in hot air from the engine compartment, not so much. At the back our the hood there is a gap that lets a lot of fresh cooler air in and even more hot air out allowing your engine to breathe fresh cool air making more power. You can even use one of K&N style lids and let even more air into the engine.
 
Oh and you are limited to how tall you can go with the element since the firewall hangs over the engine some.
 
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