Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
That is the Cadillac of what they have. The legs will fold up so it will take less room when you aren't using it plus it has the braces on the back to the top of the tower to stop it from bending over forwards.
What tools needed for engine rebuild?
- Thread starter Sbonez
- Start date
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That is the Cadillac of what they have. The legs will fold up so it will take less room when you aren't using it plus it has the braces on the back to the top of the tower to stop it from bending over forwards.
After you acquire the basic hand tools, engine stand, cleaning supplys, and set up a very clean area to work, you can look into specialty tools. Butcher paper would be great for covering a work bench. Newspaper can do in a pinch. I can't say enough about cleanliness. Buy A set of bore brushes and out side brushes for cleaning the block.
Feeler gauge, ring end gap grinder. Thread chasers, for cleaning threaded holes in the block. Torque wrenches. These don't have to be fancy. I have an old beam type that works well and never needs calibration. Bolt stretch gauge for doing rod bolts. Dial bore gauge and outside mikes for accurate checking of bearing clearances and bearing bores. (never trust anything, I found .0005 difference side to side on my main bearing bores AFTER I had it align honed. That is why I was getting errant readings on bearing clearances)
Degree wheel and dial indicator for installing the cam. Depending on rod type, either rubber tube to go over rod bolts while installing, or plastic covered (or brass threaded) rod that can thread into H beam style rods to save the crank when you install pistons. Ring compressor. I have one with an over center lever that works great. I can't stand the old band type.
This is what I can think of off the top of my head. Oh ya, a bottle of 409 spray cleaner for cleaning your hands, and paper towels.
The more of these tools you have, the more accurate will be your checking, obviously and the better the chances of nothing being wrong. Take time to learn how to use these tools also. There is a feel for using mikes, and ALWAYS measure at a standard temp for all parts. This is very important up hear in the great white north. A cold crank will measure small,,,, you get the idea.
Feeler gauge, ring end gap grinder. Thread chasers, for cleaning threaded holes in the block. Torque wrenches. These don't have to be fancy. I have an old beam type that works well and never needs calibration. Bolt stretch gauge for doing rod bolts. Dial bore gauge and outside mikes for accurate checking of bearing clearances and bearing bores. (never trust anything, I found .0005 difference side to side on my main bearing bores AFTER I had it align honed. That is why I was getting errant readings on bearing clearances)
Degree wheel and dial indicator for installing the cam. Depending on rod type, either rubber tube to go over rod bolts while installing, or plastic covered (or brass threaded) rod that can thread into H beam style rods to save the crank when you install pistons. Ring compressor. I have one with an over center lever that works great. I can't stand the old band type.
This is what I can think of off the top of my head. Oh ya, a bottle of 409 spray cleaner for cleaning your hands, and paper towels.
The more of these tools you have, the more accurate will be your checking, obviously and the better the chances of nothing being wrong. Take time to learn how to use these tools also. There is a feel for using mikes, and ALWAYS measure at a standard temp for all parts. This is very important up hear in the great white north. A cold crank will measure small,,,, you get the idea.
Remember, if you are on a budget and won't use some of the specialty tools more than once, you can rent them. Autozone has damper pullers/installers, torque wrenches, ridge reamers, ring compressors and other stuff for no charge, just a deposit you get back once returned. Some places also rent out cherry pickers.
1) Books, magazines, forums...
2) SAE sockets/wrenches
3) Engine stand
4) Dial indicator w/degree wheel (you can print one out), and piston stop (can make one).
5) Hight temp rtv, assebly lube, etc.
6) Lava soap!
1) Books, magazines, forums...
2) SAE sockets/wrenches
3) Engine stand
4) Dial indicator w/degree wheel (you can print one out), and piston stop (can make one).
5) Hight temp rtv, assebly lube, etc.
6) Lava soap!
No. Do not get a stand like that. They suck balls. Look at the tubes the bolts install in that bolt to the block. Look what the tubes are welded to. Only two "fingers" hold each tube for a length of less than a 1" weld on each side of the tube. Very weak design.
I usually steer away from recommending Harbor Freight for anything, but in this case, it is an exception.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lbs-foldable-engine-stand-69522.html
I have one of those and it is the best engine stand I have ever had, bar none. I have been working on cars since 1974. Bought my first stand probably about 1979. I have had everything from Snap On to OTC. Look how the tubes are installed on that HF stand. They are installed THROUGH solid fingers on the head and welded in. MUCH stronger than the Jegs crappola. I have my 1956 Hemi on mine right now and I don't think the stand even knows it is there. The engine weighs around 750. You can get a HF 25% off coupon and get a good deal on it. It folds up, too.
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
Good point. I dislike the drop in pin that they use to keep the engine from rotating but I imagine all of them are that way unless you buy an expensive one. I much prefer the type that you tightened bolt down to secure it. I think the perfect engine stand would have both.
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
Sterling, I have some floor jacks you can have if you need them. They have been taking up space in the shed and I am tired of tripping over them.
I have a 25% coupon you can have, my wife gets them out of the paper every sunday
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
I do believe that you are way over your head. Just reading books will not give you the touch you will need. The tools alone will cost you hundreds of dollars. You will also need someone to turn the engine so you can see TDC thru the spark plug holes.
You may think about seeing if one of the many auto repair schools would be willing to take your car on as a project car.
Spencer, I have 40+ years worth of tool collecting and I do not have the proper ones for the type of project you are planning
Ed
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
Sterling, do not leave us hanging. How is the rebuild/replacement engine coming along?
Others have already said: books, basic and specific tools/equipment.
I think paper is good; write down what you want, it helps to clarify thought, plus it's cheep.
Something else that is important for you would be a mentor; a singular go to person for your questions. While the vast reach of the internet is good, I think your inexperience ( I could be wrong here, and if I am, I apoligize) too many people giving advice is just gonna confuse you; again, paper, it's cheep, helps to clairify thought.
I think paper is good; write down what you want, it helps to clarify thought, plus it's cheep.
Something else that is important for you would be a mentor; a singular go to person for your questions. While the vast reach of the internet is good, I think your inexperience ( I could be wrong here, and if I am, I apoligize) too many people giving advice is just gonna confuse you; again, paper, it's cheep, helps to clairify thought.
And it makes me nervous when I hear things like" screwdriver wrenches and air compressor".
You may need one more screwdriver. A ratchet and a couple of sockets and a piece of sand paper. Don't forget to sand everything before you paint it all. Do not use any lube prior to paint. This may cause fish eyes in the paint.
You want a good smooth coat of chrome paint on the crank so it looks polished. Paint all parts the appropriate colors . Take a couple of pictures and then lube the **** out of everything on the inside.
Take your time on the cylinder bores and use a sideways stroke angle with a #No. 2 paint brush. This will give you the cross hash look as seen below. This block was professional prepped and painted.
Good luck and if you need anymore pointers just give a shout at
You Rip-em We Strip-em
You Crash-em We Stash-em
You Can Trust us Midnight Auto Repairs.
If I don't answer after midnight we may be on a job. I am usually back before dawn. Steve
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
Seems Sterling dropped off the map. I am going to give him a call and find out what is happening. I have a feeling he is at a standstill
jasperjacko
Well-Known Member
It just might be that he is just getting into the hobby and needing actual advice and encouragement. There has been some good advice here, but also to many negative comments. Just because a guy doesn't live on his computer, or have the tool set of a master tech., is no reason to belittle him. We were all newbies at one point.
In my opinion there is never a reason for negative comments, not that I would have listened anyway. When I started I was told to get only what I needed. Craftsman was OK but when I broke anything to move up to Mac or Snapon. I only use air tools to take things apart. You should have two torque wrenches. 1/2 drive foot pound wrench, max is 135 foot pounds, for the crank bolt that holds on the Vibration Damper. I'd also recommend a 3/8 inch pound torque wrench, max is 270 inch pounds, for the cam retainer bolts, for 5/16 or smaller bolts. The only specialty tool I'd tell someone to get is the tapered piston ring compressor, after you get the piston size you will be using since they are good for one size only. The main tool is the bent handle 3/8 swivel head ratchet. For 3/8 drive get a set of 6 point deep sockets and a set of 6 point universal sockets. Next a set of six point combination wrenches from 3/8 to 3/4 a set of good screwdrivers, use them only for this purpose. For 1/2 inch drive you will need a long handled ratchet, 1/2 through 3/4 six point sockets, and a 1 1/4 six point socket. Optional is a 1/2 drive impact wrench. Add tools as needed. Add a gasket scraper, a stainless steel or brass scrub brush, a toilet cleaning brush (new) and a rifle / shotgun cleaning kit with assorted brushes. And, as mentioned above, an in depth manual, to be read before you do anything.
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
I sent Sterling a text asking him how it is going.
He replied that he is busy with school
He replied that he is busy with school
johnnycuda
JohnnyCuda's 68
Just a vise grip and a hammer you should be good to go!
Sorry couldn't resitt
Sorry couldn't resitt
pishta
I know I'm right....
Not a fan of digital calipers unless they are .001 accurate, otherwise a dial caliper is better to see runout, same for dial indicators and mic's.
And dont forget 1 very cheap tool: feeler gauge.
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