What type of engine oil

-

hawkgoalie31

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2007
Messages
161
Reaction score
4
Hey guys,

I need some opions on what type of oil to run in my car. Me and my dad are finshing up on my 1974 duster 318 that we did a total bumber to bumber on and were going to break the engine in with delo oil but after that what do you guys think on oil. What type of oil you guys run in your cars.

Thanks Brian
 
Because the guy that rebuilt said to use that to break it in. also wat i mean is should i use regular sythnic wat?
 
Running a flat tappet hydraulic cam? If yes (and if not just for good measure) you need an oil with the right Zinc content. I run Hughes Racing Engines oil in my 340. It's got the Zinc additive in it. Or you can buy bottles of additive to add to your oil. There are other good oils w/ zinc too. Royal Purple came out with one, Penn Grade "Green" is good too...
 
rottela used to have zinc ,thats why its reccommended for break in. if you arent using a roller cam you,ll wipe it out without zinc
 
I ran a small bottle of Comp Cams zinc addittive for the first oil change/break in, couple hundred miles.
 
i run valvoline ZR1 racing oil in mine its desined for flat tappet motors plenty of zinc even says on the bottle 20w 50 all the time dont go with any synthetic oils unless you have a roller cam
 
Hey guys,

I need some opions on what type of oil to run in my car. Me and my dad are finshing up on my 1974 duster 318 that we did a total bumber to bumber on and were going to break the engine in with delo oil but after that what do you guys think on oil. What type of oil you guys run in your cars.

Thanks Brian
We run:
Summer: Castrol (or equal) 20/50 with 1Qt Lucas Oil Stabilizer
Winter: Castrol High Milage 10/30 with 1 Qt Lucas Oil Stabilizer
Always run WIX filter (or Equal )
Our 64 runs 1 Qt per tank of fuel, where it goes who the heck knows! I think she digest and spits out waste as carbon in the back!LOL
Our 67 leaks like a Harley everywhere but never have to add between changes!?
I'm not even going to try to figure those 2 cars out!!!
 
If you ask a hundred people, you will get a hundred different answers. Most oil manufacturers have a web site and if you send them an e-mail with engine specs and usage they will steer you in the right direction. (staight from the horses mouth so to speak). I got answers from most and Royal Purple gave me great info that I didn't even think to ask. Thats why I use Royal Purple,great customer service, very helpful, and great oil. good luck!
 
I'm sure you can get a better answer. But I'll give it a shot. Basically, Zinc is a softer metal than the metals your cam and lifters are made of. It provides an extra layer of protection while those 2 newly machined parts and everything else "find their wear pattern" for the rest of their life.
 
For Hard Driving (Hot Rod) I use Castrol GTX 20W-50.

For an everyday driver I recommend Castrol GTX 10W-30.

The 20W-50 gives better viscosity protection for engines that are run hard....the 10W-30 has good protection for engines that rarely see 6000rpm.

The conventional/synthetic arguement is bogus.....and just costs more money to "say" you run synthetic.

I use nothing but Castrol in everything I drive....but thats just me...I used to run Pennzoil till I tore into and rebuilt a 100,000 mile Pennzoil Engine.......:vom:
 
-
Back
Top