What type of oil to use ? Was told to use an oil with zinc in

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jerry6

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it , better for the old non roller cam motors , was told that the cams wear out with newer oils because they contain no zinc , the zinc messed up O2 sensors and other pollution devices .
So what oil do most here use , and any stories of worn cams lifters using modern oil ?
 
This thread shows up here often with so many versions of the correct answer that the op usually ends up more bewildered than before they asked the question.
So first off I am no expert by any means but have researched this quite a bit. Racing oil such as Brad Penn etc. is just that RACING oil. It's great stuff with the correct amount of zinc for your flat tappet engine, however it wasn't designed to be used for 3 thousand miles between changes. So if you decide to use it change it often. Diesel or heavy duty oil was designed for Diesel engines and thusly has many more detergents and conditioners in it than a gas engine oil has or needs. Besides it doesn't have much zinc and phosphorus any more.
If my engine was broken in I would use a good synthetic oil with an additive such as ZDDP+. GM EOS additive has way less zinc and phosphorus and you would have to add so much that who knows what kind of concoction you now have in your engine. Some say additives don't mix with your oil but they actually do in as far as the additive will not pool in the bottom of your oil pan. They are different size molecules and blend with your motor oil much like 10w30 is a blend of 2 different oils but the 10 and the 30 don't actually separate.
If your engine has less than 1000 miles on it I would use a GOOD conventional oil with an additive such as ZDDP+. You can check out the ZDDP website and get the scientific explanation. I'm no scientist so I got out of it what I could. The cam manufacturers make good additives as well.
 
Your gonna get 40 different answers, I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic in everything, old school advice was to break a motor in and change it after a couple hundred miles, my old machine shop (a very wise old man) always said to break it in with the same oil your intend to run in it. Most all camshaft makers want you to use a certain kind of additive for proper camshaft/lifter break in, cant argue with that.
 
just remembered , my 90 S/C thunderbird had a push-rod motor and I used regular synthetic on it , never had a problem and it had420,000 km , is this zinc in oil just an old racers tale or what ,. Just want to be sure i use the right oil on my new build , don't want to see it go to waste .
 
jerry6 said:
just remembered , my 90 S/C thunderbird had a push-rod motor and I used regular synthetic on it , never had a problem and it had420,000 km , is this zinc in oil just an old racers tale or what ,. Just want to be sure i use the right oil on my new build , don't want to see it go to waste .
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that was most likely a push rod motor with roller lifters. its the flat tappet cams that need the extra zinc, especially when you get into higher then stock spring pressures..
 
Well oil is going to cost at least $3 a quart/ for $6.50 a quart-$38 a case I get this oil, comes 20w-50 for a few $ more.

No tax, free shipping, ups brings it to my door, very cool.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV850-Racing-STREET-Bottles/dp/B000GAN3GM/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1285467810&sr=1-1"]Amazon.com: Valvoline VV850 Racing 10W30 NOT STREET LEGAL Motor Oil, Pack of Six 1 Quart Bottles: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41BAWA8Y86L.@@AMEPARAM@@41BAWA8Y86L[/ame]
 
been driving for 5 yrs on quaker state 10-40..with a hughes 230/237 flat tappet cam...

broke it in with moly lube and beeb using the quaker state since
 
Use lucas break in oil.
It's available at advance auto parts.
Once the engine is broken in,i don't think any oil is going to ruin the cam.
When was the last time you seen an original motor burn up it's 50 year old cam on the new oil that's available???
Hydraulic OR solid????
I think if it was broken in correctly in the first place, then you will be fine with any modern oil.
In a situation where your running really high spring pressures, then i can see spending the extra money.
 
It's most important to use the right oil for break in. But yes the short answer is the government has mandated car companies to warranty the emissions components specifically catalytic converters, for longer. In turn the car manufactures have pressured the oil companies to lower the heavy metal content in oils. I have heard rumors that new cars come with a break in oil from the factory and then go on to use the new oils with less heavy metals. All this doesn't matter as much for the new cars with roller cams of course. Here is a good article on it.
http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1604

I can dig up more if you like.

Garth
 
"I can dig up more if you like.

Garth "

sure , the more the better .. Thanks alll !
 
I say spend the extra money on the roller and not to worry about break in and oils without zinc....

However if you do break it in right and use the break in material on the cam and start the motor right (within a few revolutions, not crankin it forever and wiping the cam clean) then you shouldn't have a problem and can then switch to a good syn oil....

However i still stand by lose the 50 yr old tech and go roller...
 
All oil now has no zinc phosphates added to it. The reason is the additive damages the catalytic converter. New engines are all designed with no shear points. (all roller cams and rockers. If your engine has shear points. ie: rocker to valve tip, cam to lifters etc. Your engine oil and engine needs a zinc additive. Period.
 
Any oil will do, as long as its not havoline, Quaker state, or Penzoil.......... at least the dino oil in those brands, just use the cam break in stuff they make, comp makes some.


Amsoil 15W40 Diesel and marine oil has a nice high zinc content, and is synthetic.
 
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