What would be the best rear end?

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RDupont01

RDupont01

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I have a 1973 Swinger that currently has a 318 but I do plan on running a stroked 360 eventually. I am looking for a posi rear end, or sure grip, what would be the best recommendation? Im looking for a bolt in, ready to go, thats under $500.

Robert
 
RDupont01 said:
I have a 1973 Swinger that currently has a 318 but I do plan on running a stroked 360 eventually. I am looking for a posi rear end, or sure grip, what would be the best recommendation? Im looking for a bolt in, ready to go, thats under $500.

Robert
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You are talking about a complete rear axle with a sure grip in it for $500? Good luck......
 
Get in line. Ain't gonna happen. I just went round and round with a friend over this very thing. He wanted my 8.750 under my Scamp as he was planning on getting the Scamp from me. But I wanted it for my Dart. I sat down and did the math and it would quickly eclipse a grand if I had to purchase and build another one. When I told my wife that, she put the foot down and told me to keep the 8.750...but I had already decided to do just that. Now my friend has no interest in the car, since I'm putting a 7.250 in it, but he's still my friend. Bare housings are going for around 300 bucks. A new sure grip is gonna cost you about 400-450. Axles will set you back another 300 or so. Then there's backing plates and brakes. You ain't gonna find one for 500 bucks. Pass some of that around you're smokin on.
 
8 1/4" they can be found a lot cheaper than 8 3/4" find an A-body housing, then search trucks and 4X4 in the U-pull junk yards for a sure grip, you may be able to do it within your budget with some luck and effort, but it aint gonna be easy.
 
Sign me up for one!! Thats about the range of a good 8 3/4 center w/sure grip. The 8 3/4 rear is what you will need but they are spendy now days. The 81/4 won't hold up for a stroked 360. Keep your eyes and ears open and maybe you can get a deal on one on Craigslist. Good luck.
 
8 1/4" will hold up just fine on anything short of an all out drag car, people four wheel them all the time
 
I posted up a craigslist ad (wasn't mine) that a guy is sellin an a body 8 3/4 (minus the center section) for 350. This was in the Seattle listings
 
I agree completely with caferacerx ; the 8.25" rear is just fine . One of its advantages is that it's already got the big bolt-circle pattern ( or , at least , the majority of them do ... ) , so there's no need to wrestle with spending coin on buying new axles .

Another often overlooked candidate is the 9.25" rear . This was a common piece in "B" bodies ( especially '75 and up , as '74 was the final year for the 8.75" ) and 360-powered F/M/J/R bodies .
This diff wasn't available in "A" bodies , so some work will be required for "A" applications , unless you're going to massage the quarter panels / wheel openings .
 
If you find 8 1/4 it would not cost as much as 8 3/4...
If you go 8 3/4 cheaper to buy the whole setup from moser .ready to go
 
Cheaper yet would be a limited slip 8.8 out Ford ranger same bbp 5 x 4.5...
 
You can have a cheaper B or E body 8 3/4 narrowed....I don't know what it costs to do that nowadays but 10 years ago for my Duster it was only $220 through Moser. And we found an 8 3/4 from a '66 Charger housing on Craigslist for $50 a couple years ago.

And we just found an 8 1/4 a couple months ago also for $50 on Craigslist, which will go in our '65 Dart with a mild 318 and 4-speed.
 
What would be the best rear end?

Female, of course.
 
You can have a cheaper B or E body 8 3/4 narrowed....I don't know what it costs to do that nowadays but 10 years ago for my Duster it was only $220 through Moser. And we found an 8 3/4 from a '66 Charger housing on Craigslist for $50 a couple years ago.
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i agree. don't know why people are so affraid to have a rear narrowed. in most cases its cheaper then buying a a-body 8 3/4. the center section with sure grip is gonna cost money. there just isnt anyway around that unless you find a real deal. but hey this hobby isn't cheap.
 
If it's just the housing that's high...check C-bodies too, we've found a few with 8 3/4's in junkyards, one with a sure-grip.
 
............A 8.35 is pretty tough.....i know a couple of guys running them at the track with slicks.............1 440 duster is in the 10s.....4 years now.............kim............
 
I was offered a free 8.8 limited slip from a Bronco. Think I should go see if its still there?
 
Why not just build a Rustang then?
 
I'm building an Abody 8 3/4 from parts. I opted not to shorten something down or swap another axle type because this is my first axle so I want to keep it simple. Next time out I'll shorten if need be.

Like its been said a complete assembly is around a grand and then you'd probably tear it apart just to make sure so add some more money.

Building from parts let's you upgrade where its important to you. Want discs? Buy brakes just once. Suregrip? I'm leary of a used SG. I'd rather wait and get a new unit later, car will still drive with an open rear. No holeshots for the first thousand miles anyway.

So far I've got about $600 in a housing, open chunk with the ratio i wanted(3.23), aftermarket axles, shockplates and drum brake cores. Add 400 when I get the SG and while its still about a grand, its my choice on parts and it was not a big ticket all at once and I'll know what's inside...which I think is better than saying, "well the guy who sold it to me said it was a blah blah blah"


Although if I had found a complete rear for $500 I would have grabbed it.
 
ne57 said:
which I think is better than saying, "well the guy who sold it to me said it was a blah blah blah"
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Probably the wisest statement in your post.
 
StrokerScamp said:
Well hell. Lets just skip all the Mopar crap and all build us a Rustang. What the hell were we thinkin anyway? Joey, where's the Rustang section?
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Some people cant afford the cost of a mopar 8.75 and while they may be cheap in some areas (A,B,C,E bodies) in other areas they arent cheap, and some people arent fortunate enough to have one saved in the garage. Isnt hot rodding about making your car run with what you can find? I am using an explorer 8.8 in my dart. I got it for $100 bucks at a pull apart, cost 50 to shorten the long side to short side length, I lucked up and got an extra short side axle for free, and when it is all said and done I ended up with a limited slip 3.73 rear axle for around $200. Cheaper than an 8.75, and it will be plenty stout for me, and a lot stouter than a 8.25. It came out a little narrower than the A body 8.25, and I can still run factory rallies. The only thing is the u bolts come out close to the axle tube taper.
 
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