What would cause this weird bearing wear?

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i have seen this kind of damage on bearing due to an engine that DID NOT START IN 2-3 REVOLUTIONS on initial startup.. because of improper/lack of FUEL..CORRECT SPARK AT THE RIGHT TIME or WEAK IGN...ENGINE MUST START IMMEDIATELY!...
 
I'm by no means a pro engine builder but I'm thinking if your rotational clearance off the caps exceeds crank fore and aft motion, you're probably good.
Evidently you are not comfortable with the cap mismatches and I probably wouldn't be either.
Well, try to move one. On the #4 cap, it appears to hang over the block. I might try to reposition this one just to satisfy myself. Don't forget the assembly lube.
 
I'm by no means a pro engine builder but I'm thinking if your rotational clearance off the caps exceeds crank fore and aft motion, you're probably good.
Evidently you are not comfortable with the cap mismatches and I probably wouldn't be either.
Well, try to move one. On the #4 cap, it appears to hang over the block. I might try to reposition this one just to satisfy myself. Don't forget the assembly lube.

I talked to my engine guy and showed him pictures and doesnt really think its too big of a deal, he told me if I wanted I could loosen the caps off and try and position the caps better, but doesnt feel that there is anything to worry about. The caps cannot actually be flush on both sides anyways as they are all a bit smaller than the block or the bolts dont allow for it.

I pulled on off and took a look at the bearing and it still looks like I just put it in there, so I think I am just overthinking this...lol

And yup, using lots of the proper assembly lube!
 
I took off a few caps to re-position them a bit, and now they are flush with one side and nice and straight now (could only adjust the movement front and back) torqued everything down and crank spins nicely still. Is there anyway to ensure that everything is in the right place? For all I know they were good before. All I did was take a cap off and re-position, didn't move the crank at all, I also didn't touch the thrust bearing as it was perfectly lined up.

Also they may be fine but Ive torqued these stock main bolts a few times now, can I replace them with some new stock bolts? Not arp because as I understand the extra clamping impacts the cap. Can you even buy the stock ones?
 
When I assemble the only cap that gets centered is #3 for the thrust. I do that one first. Put the cap on, finger tighten the bolts, then using a soft faced dead blow hit the crank fore and aft in the block a few times, then torque the bolts in 3 steps. The others - as long as the bolts go in easy, again, finger tighten them, torque in 3 steps. The bolts you have are fine, but if you want to replace them any 360 used bolts should be fine too.
 
When I assemble the only cap that gets centered is #3 for the thrust. I do that one first. Put the cap on, finger tighten the bolts, then using a soft faced dead blow hit the crank fore and aft in the block a few times, then torque the bolts in 3 steps. The others - as long as the bolts go in easy, again, finger tighten them, torque in 3 steps. The bolts you have are fine, but if you want to replace them any 360 used bolts should be fine too.

I centered it first too, except I put all the caps on loose, hit the crank back and forth a bit, and then tightened everything up, just to check again after that, I loosened up the thrust cap, pried it back and forth and hit it lightly again with a soft hammer and tightened it up again, and I can see the thrust bearing face and it looks like it was completely centered as well, I measured the crank endply before and after and it never really changed. I later re-positioned the others for piece of mind mainly, as all the bolts went in smoothly. Would my method of centering the thrust work? I guess I will just leave the bolts that I have in it, they torqued up the same every time so they should be good.

The short block is assembled and I think everything is good. Only wondering now what It should feel like to turn over. It easily turns with a smaller ratchet. But I notice that in a few spots in the rotation I think it gets slightly easier to turn for a moment in 4 places. Seems to be as two pistons get to tdc and momentarily stop to change direction and come back down, this happens for all the pistons. Would I just be feeling the slight reduction in drag at that moment. Only happens for a few degrees of rotation at the exact moment I see any two pistons at the top.
 
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