What would YOU do?

-

Captainkirk

Old School Mopar Warrior
Joined
Apr 24, 2006
Messages
3,371
Reaction score
1,510
Location
Northern IL
It looks as if my 'intended' 340 build may have to change some as I may not be able to get away with running the TRW pistons I had planned on reusing (11.5:1 with cc'd 1,88 'J' heads). Pump gas ain't what it used to be. (These pistons are 12.5:1 with stock chamber bowl size, hence the cc job)
If I go with a milder set of KB 10.5:1 pistons, the J heads would probably drop me a point over standard (down to 9.5;1) I have a set of untouched X heads with 2.02's that I could use, but here's the clincher...
J heads have been previously cc'd, ported, polished, knurled guides, 5-angle competition valve job and probably just need a good hot tank, strip and clean-up.
X heads are bone-stock, untouched with over 100k on them.
I plan on running a cam close to the specs on my old one:
lift 4.50/4.75
duration 298/308
A833 4 speed
either 3.55 or 3.91 diff
Which heads would you choose, and why?
 
Any chance of cutting the pistons to drop the compression ratio?
 
..............I'd mill the dome off the piston so u have a flat top, no worries as there's lots of material there.....run the j heads......kim.........
 
Knurled guides will not allow for "competition 5 angle valve job" of any quality.
I'd mill the pistons and run the X heads myself. Stick new valve seals on them and run them. The cam's not big enough to do much with "fully ported and polished" heads, and if the same guy that chose to knurl the guides did the porting and valve seats, they work is nothing to write home about.
 
What's the negativity on the knurled guides? Hell, they were the cat's meow when I last had the heads done (like 40 years ago! lol) They weren't worn out; the knurling was done to increase oil retention for the valve stems. I've since learned that 5-angle jobs are not recommended for longevity on street engines, but that could be fixed as well.
Yes, the domes could be machined, but at what cost compared to a new set of KB hypereutectics?
Actually, the port and polish work is pretty decent from what I can tell.
 
Oil control in the long term, and contribution to long term detonation. (J.M.O.)...
 
The biggest piece of the puzzle, you didnt tell us. Your intended usage.
-Its like this; say you want to pound a nail into something. Maybe your floor has got a squeak thats driving you crazy. Sure most of us use a hammer. But, you could use; anything from a tack-hammer to a post driver, or drive over it with a tank. Well the tank might be overkill. But Im sure you get the point.
-About the only hint we got was "pump gas". But that cam is pulling in a different direction.
 
Personally depending on. What the intended use is. I wouldn't think it would matter. Do some measuring to see what your compression ratio will be to tune it where you want it. J heads can flow just as good as the x head. I think Hotrod did a comparison between them and they home ported the J heads and ended up with near identical numbers for flow between the x and J head. I would check the valve guides on the heads and save the J heads for a 408! I
Also would use speedpro flat tops. I've seen too many horror stories about the KB pistons.
 
IMHO, it does matter.That cam will want to be shifted well north of 6000rpm. The Js with 1.88s will not likely go that far, and the worn out Xs, will need some work.
-So if hes going racing, fine, work the Xs.
-But for a streeter theres no point in the Xs, because A) 6000 in 1st is already speeding. and B) probably 90+% of the time will be spent sub 4000rpm. The Js with their 1.88s will not be a problem, there. And if your going Js you can downsize the cam and pick up considerable drivability. As a streeter Id be willing to give up quite a bit of hp at 6000, for a generous increase of torque at sub 3000.
-Yeah, yeah, I know you can pick up the bottom with gears, but that gets old in a hurry at highway speeds. As a streeter, Ill choose torque in second gear over hp at redline every time. And thats exactly opposite of drag-racing.
-So for me, I would opine, intended usage is paramount.
-Having got that out of the way, I wouldnt use those heads, period.Except maybe in a Daily Driver. Even then Id probably put closed chamber smallports on any sbm.

PS;Alpha, What kind of horror stories have you seen, re the KBs?
 
-Having got that out of the way, I wouldnt use those heads, period.

Which heads? The X's or J's?

Intended use is strictly street rod.
With the old motor running the TRW's I was pushing about 11.5:1 on leaded premium and shifting around 6K using 6500 as redline. The cam was really strong above 4500. I ran this combo with both the 3.55 and 3.91 gears and the A833 4 speed and it was a screamer. I would simply re-do the motor to the previous build specs but I'm afraid the modern ethanol crap at 93 octane won't tolerate it. BTW, I was running 32 degrees total advance (mechanical only) with quick advance kit and never noticed any detonation, nor do the piston domes or combustion chambers show any signs. Was I lucky? Maybe. Just not sure if I would be so lucky with the pump gas they are selling today.
 
-Having got that out of the way, I wouldnt use those heads, period.QUOTE]

Which heads? The X's or J's?

Intended use is strictly street rod.
With the old motor running the TRW's I was pushing about 11.5:1 on leaded premium and shifting around 6K using 6500 as redline. The cam was really strong above 4500. I ran this combo with both the 3.55 and 3.91 gears and the A833 4 speed and it was a screamer. I would simply re-do the motor to the previous build specs but I'm afraid the modern ethanol crap at 93 octane won't tolerate it. BTW, I was running 32 degrees total advance (mechanical only) with quick advance kit and never noticed any detonation, nor do the piston domes or combustion chambers show any signs. Was I lucky? Maybe. Just not sure if I would be so lucky with the pump gas they are selling today.
The fuel we have now will not tolerate that much compression, especially with a open chamber head. Mill the domes off or by the KB hyper pistons, try to be somewhere about 9 or 9.2 to 1 ratio.
 
Those heads plural, meaning any of them. X,J,O, or Us.

-FYI. The ethanol fuels are NOT crap, well mostly not anyway. They are actually more resistant to detonation. And once you get the tune into them they do very well for our streetrods.They just dont keep their volatility long in open storage, such as your carbed fuel system.
Its hard to get a sense of your mood, personality or ego from just the few posts you have made.And the following is not meant to be in any way hurtful.
-Getting back to the heads and the now stated "streetrod" usage.I cant think of a tactful way to say this, but I will try;It seems to me that your budget is quite small, or you are stuck in the "oldschool" way of building.
-If your budget is quite small then you may have to make do with what you have.
-If, on the other hand, you are building oldschool ways, then there will be no changing your mind, and you will reject any, and perhaps all, advices offered.Every single person who responded to your post, has given good advice. But you came back with hell this and crap that.But to your credit, you asked which heads and why.
-So, if you truly want to use one of those iron open chambered heads, in a streetrod,and even though I doubt it makes a whole lot of difference which ones you use, I would answer; the Js, and the why is because you already have them, and they sound fresh.
-On the off chance that Im wrong, and that you might be open to change,you could ask/say something like; Hey guys, Id like to build a fun 340 for my A-body streetrod.I will be using a 4 speed and either 3.55s or 3.91s.It will be used mostly on the street with little/no highway cruising and only occasional trips to the track, just to see what she will do.These are the parts I already have: -( then list what you got). What changes might you suggest and how do you suggest I assemble it to run and survive on todays oxygenated fuel.Then tell us what fuel you would like to run or be willing to run, and a budget to fit it all into.And the final qualifier would be something like;I would like it to pull like a freight-train, in 2nd gear from 35MPH.
If you do this, you will get some of the most knowledgeable fellows in all of Mopardom to help you reach your goal(s).
-Hope this helps
 
Wow...quite a mouthful of comments/questions, etc to answer, but I'll try!

Those heads plural, meaning any of them. X,J,O, or Us.

OK, assuming by this you don't prefer ANY open chamber heads. I'm sure you can build more HP and torque with closed chamber heads, or aftermarket heads like the Edelbrock, etc.
Which seems rather silly to me as I have two performance head options available that a perfectly capable of putting me in my target range of 275-325 HP...which was entirely adequate for a street machine in 1970 and would be today. Head options that are bought and paid for. Yes, budget is a consideration, but it seems silly to fork out a couple grand to buy something I already have two sets of. Am I missing something?

-FYI. The ethanol fuels are NOT crap, well mostly not anyway. They are actually more resistant to detonation. And once you get the tune into them they do very well for our streetrods.They just dont keep their volatility long in open storage, such as your carbed fuel system.

OK, maybe "crap" wasn't the best word to use. Let's change it to 'inadequate'. Ethanol blended fuels are not as energy-efficient as those without ethanol, and were designed for today's engines using computer-controlled ignition, multiport fuel injection and a host of other technological advances. An original musclecar motor does not appreciate these fuels any more than, say, a Rolls-Royce Merlin in a WWII era P51 would. At best you are getting 93 octane where your average premium when these engines were designed was 97 octane with enough tetraethyl lead added to supress detonation up to 12.5:1 CR's. So, the premium fuels today would be 'inadequate' for CR's above maybe 10:1 in engines of those designs. Not saying for a minute today's engines can't deliver superior performance off fuels like that, but we are referring to engines designed during the Viet Nam war.

Its hard to get a sense of your mood, personality or ego from just the few posts you have made.And the following is not meant to be in any way hurtful.

Perhaps I've only made a few posts on this particular subject, but there is a 250 page thread attached to my signature on this forum, that coincidentally has been published in book form, that pretty much gives my whole life story if you wanted to know about my mood, ego, or personality...and I say that with a chuckle. No offense taken or intended. I do appreciate your comments. This is how progress occurs...question & answer.

-Getting back to the heads and the now stated "streetrod" usage. I cant think of a tactful way to say this, but I will try;It seems to me that your budget is quite small, or you are stuck in the "oldschool" way of building.

My budget IS small...I don't believe in spending money that doesn't need to be spent of gizmos and gadgets. The high performance engines of the 70's are hat these cars came with and I don't see the need to re-invent the wheel. It worked then; I just need to make it work now on what I have to work with (read; "fuel") to extract the same amount of performance out of a smallie that I did back when the engines were new. If that labels me as "stuck in the oldschool way", then color me guilty. Let's just say I was fine with the performance I had 30 years ago, all I'd like to do is duplicate that as close as I can. No offense intended to you guys who are making huge strides in HP, torque, ET's and super high HP smallblocks; my hat's off to you for your advances. It's just something I don't feel I need to do any more. Not my cup of tea.

-If your budget is quite small then you may have to make do with what you have.

I would like to keep it reasonable as I have an entire car to restore....

-If, on the other hand, you are building oldschool ways, then there will be no changing your mind, and you will reject any, and perhaps all, advices offered.Every single person who responded to your post, has given good advice. But you came back with hell this and crap that. But to your credit, you asked which heads and why.

??? I think I may have called the ethanol fuels "crap" but I've addressed that. And I used the word "hell" as a matter-of-fact expression, not an expression of anger or derision. Wasn't meaning to offend anyone with the verbage....Also, I think both terms were used in the original post, so I was not "coming back" to anyone with the particular terms. But yes, I did ask what heads, and why...not "which heads are the best on a smallie" or "which heads make the most horsepower", but rather "I have two sets of heads currently available, which would you choose?" How that turned into something else is a little confusing at this point? Plus, every person that responded gave a slightly different answer...yourself included...which leaves me to pick which answer I like best. Nobody is "wrong", just differing opinions!

-So, if you truly want to use one of those iron open chambered heads, in a streetrod,and even though I doubt it makes a whole lot of difference which ones you use, I would answer; the Js, and the why is because you already have them, and they sound fresh.

I have BOTH sets...J's and X's. I have two complete 340 motors.

-On the off chance that Im wrong, and that you might be open to change,you could ask/say something like; Hey guys, Id like to build a fun 340 for my A-body streetrod.I will be using a 4 speed and either 3.55s or 3.91s.It will be used mostly on the street with little/no highway cruising and only occasional trips to the track, just to see what she will do.These are the parts I already have: -( then list what you got). What changes might you suggest and how do you suggest I assemble it to run and survive on todays oxygenated fuel.Then tell us what fuel you would like to run or be willing to run, and a budget to fit it all into.And the final qualifier would be something like;I would like it to pull like a freight-train, in 2nd gear from 35MPH.
If you do this, you will get some of the most knowledgeable fellows in all of Mopardom to help you reach your goal(s).
-Hope this helps

Hmmm...a tall order there. I've already mentioned the cam and pistons and heads available to me, plus the rear end gears available and type of tranny. Nothing else is set in concrete yet and won't be until I get past the piston/CR/heads stage, because one thing affects another and those things need to be decided first. I certainly appreciate all the time and input you've given, and even though I'm an old school guy, I'm always willing to listen to ideas and comments as long as it doesn't add up to thousands...remember; I have an entire car to restore.
 
I knew it! I knew there was more to you than I was picking up on.See Im a newbie here, and Im just figuring my way around.I really hoped I wasnt offending you, and was reluctant to post at all. But I saw you had many posts and had been here quite a while, so hopefully you would cut me some slack. I see you did and thank you for that.
-Now, on to the rest of the story.I have been wrenching on stuff since 1969. I grew up driving, wrecking, fixing and modding these mopes.The one thing I learned is you have to design your engine around the available fuel.
-The fuel of yesteryear is gone and it wont be back.For a streetrod, I find nothing wrong with todays fuel if you build for it. A street motor doesnt need 12.5 c/r anymore. It used to need it, because the camshaft technology of the day dropped the Dc/r so low.Todays Mopar specific streetable cams,with their faster ramps, keep the Dc/r up pretty nice.That makes it possible to run a more ethanol friendly static c/r.
-The problem arises when you combine the open chamber heads with pop-up pistons that get into a poor relationship with the top of the combustion chamber. As long as you build around it, no big deal.Its just way easier IMO,with flat-tops,tight quench, and closed chamber heads.
-For the ethanol fuels to make power, you just need to push a wee bit more of it through the motor.Getting the fuel in is easy. Its getting the air through.Its always been about,getting the air through.And those old iron heads arent the best at that.
-And heres my take on a fun streetrod. A streetrod needs torque.It needs it at 30ish mph in 2nd gear.It doesnt need hp at 6500rpm.At that rpm and with the ever popular 3.55s, you will be travelling at 70mph in 2nd, and have set yourself up for all kinds of police troubles.No, I want lots of ftlbs at 2800rpm. Its a little buzzy going 30 mph in 2nd at 2800, but doable. Coincidently, 2800 rpm will, with the 3.55s, get you about 63mph. Again a little buzzy but doable.So then, why would I put a monster cam in there, and sacrifice a ton of low speed torque.
I designed my motor around 87E-10.I chose a 360.Plentiful and cheap, and a long stroke.I didnt choose it for the 20 extra cubes. I chose it for the extra stroke. I knew I wanted to favor torque, and didnt really care too much about the top end. I chose a 223* fast rate cam, again for torque.I choose that cam to get me an early closing intake. I chose a 65cc chamber Eddie head, flat-tops, and a .039 gasket, to make 10.7c/r. This got me an E-10 friendly Dc/r just under 9/1. This was built in 99. I never dynoed it. I didnt need to.For a small block I was pretty impressed. A few years later HR magazine built an almost identical engine that dynoed around 430hp.In 2nd gear with 3.55s it will break loose both the 295s, at up to 50mph. It easily goes 106 in the quarter.Thats my idea of a sweet streetrod. Drive it anywhere/every where, off to the track, click off a 106, idle it along in a parade, take it to church, waste the guy in the next lane, posture to your hearts content.And when people frown on my lowly 360,since I bored it to 4.04, I just tell em its a stroked 340.
-So, whats that got to do with your build? Well if this motor interests you at all, I bet if you sold your 340 stuff, and pooled the proceeds with your budget stash.........
-And best of all, with the 10.7c/r, you can if you are so inclined, upsize the cam to at least 240*,and go racing. I did. It went 93 in the 1/8th.(In 1970, I bought a low mileage Swinger 340-4spd with 4.11s. In otherwise total stock trim, and with G60-14s, it went 98....in the quarter.I thought, back then, that was fast). And yeah, it lost a sizeable chunk of low end torque.I had to put 4.10s in and a GearVendors o/d, to get the bottom end back, and a reasonable cruising speed. Thats a lot of cash, for a 17* cam change. If/when this cam pukes, Im going back.
-Anyways, enough rambling ,already.
-Dont forget, your heads will need the hardened seats to survive unleaded fuel.Some came with em.And whatever you decide, all the best to you. And thx for not ripping me a new one.
 
Well, thanks for your input and viewpoint from your side of the fence! Gives me more food for thought. I'm not 'there yet' with the final blueprint of this motor, obviously...which is why I'm asking questions and doing a lot of pondering on the john. (yeah, I think of motors there, too)
The thing about old school is 1) I understand it, 2) I have mostly what I need to build what I had, 3) I was happy with what I had, and what it did, and 4) it seems like the easiest approach for a guy of my age.
But if I'm gonna have problems making it work because of changed fuels, I realize I might have to re-think my strategy.
Again, appreciate your (and every one else's) input on the matter. I gotta go think....
 
IMHO, it does matter.That cam will want to be shifted well north of 6000rpm. The Js with 1.88s will not likely go that far, and the worn out Xs, will need some work.
-So if hes going racing, fine, work the Xs.
-But for a streeter theres no point in the Xs, because A) 6000 in 1st is already speeding. and B) probably 90+% of the time will be spent sub 4000rpm. The Js with their 1.88s will not be a problem, there. And if your going Js you can downsize the cam and pick up considerable drivability. As a streeter Id be willing to give up quite a bit of hp at 6000, for a generous increase of torque at sub 3000.
-Yeah, yeah, I know you can pick up the bottom with gears, but that gets old in a hurry at highway speeds. As a streeter, Ill choose torque in second gear over hp at redline every time. And thats exactly opposite of drag-racing.
-So for me, I would opine, intended usage is paramount.
-Having got that out of the way, I wouldnt use those heads, period.Except maybe in a Daily Driver. Even then Id probably put closed chamber smallports on any sbm.

PS;Alpha, What kind of horror stories have you seen, re the KBs?

For some reason I was thinking he meant the J heads has the 2.02 valve as well... my mistake.#-o for the street go with the 1.88 valve, for the track definitely go for the Xhead with the 2.02. You are 100% correct about the torque under 4000. I feel the same way.
About the KB pistons, my machinist always would rant and rave about the insuperiority of the KB design. when he first started using them he would always have problems with customers engines coming back with cracked pistons and whatnot. (The rings were filed to spec.) Then he switched to speedpro and has never had a problem since. He wont build it if the customer wants to use KB. Of course this is what I have heard, not personally seen. I've never heard of a bad speedpro piston, but plenty of Bad stuff about KB. But, I have also heard of great success with KB also. I guess it just depends on what works for you. But my brand will most definitely be Speedpro.:prayer:
 
hi, question, why won't the 1.88 valve head pull past 6000 RPM. what do you base that on?
 
You could definitely get away with 10:1 compression on pump gas. We only have 91 octane around here. A guy I used to know, who was in with the tuner crowd, had a 4 cylinder with twin turbos and compression of about 11:1 or more. He used to fill his tank half full with E-85 (which is 110 octane then top it off with 91 octane premium. He said he never had a ping or knock. As an example I actually tried it. (Didn't have much choice) I was on my motorcycle in some place middle of Nebraska. This bike had almost a 10:1 compression ratio. All they had at the pump was 87, 89 and E85. I filled half way with the 89 and topped it with the E85. Not a single issue for the next 100 miles until I could get premium 91 fuel. Did notice a few mpg drop though. But that's alcohol for you. It contains less BTU's so you need more to make the same power.
 
hi, question, why won't the 1.88 valve head pull past 6000 RPM. what do you base that on?

I'm assuming, because it can't support the CFM at that engine speed. BUT I've never pulled 1.88 valve 360's past 6000 so I wouldn't have any experience. I'm sure if you had a 1.88 in a smaller engine, theoretically, it would be able to support more CFM with the smaller cubes.
 
What's the negativity on the knurled guides? Hell, they were the cat's meow when I last had the heads done (like 40 years ago! lol) They weren't worn out; the knurling was done to increase oil retention for the valve stems. I've since learned that 5-angle jobs are not recommended for longevity on street engines, but that could be fixed as well.
Yes, the domes could be machined, but at what cost compared to a new set of KB hypereutectics?
Actually, the port and polish work is pretty decent from what I can tell.

Kurling restores a percentage of wearable surface to the guide. Oil clearance is set by honing the guide surface and oil control is done with a seal and control of oil to the top end. Once the knurling tool is used, a reamer is normally used to set the guide diameter. In this instance the problem is twofold: the kurling will only restore the wear surface near the tooling cut where the surface is deformed outward. This gives the machinst material to remove and set the stem to guide clearance. The reamer is tapered, so only the center of the guide is the rigth diameter. It's a repair process - not a hot rodding step, restoration to new, or better-than-new. And it leaves a far less accurate guide for the tooling that cuts the seats, and ultimately the valve stem. After the valve job is done the knurled guide becomes the "guide" for the tooling which can't cut a very round seat with the pilot in that guide. Check runout on any of those knurled seats. You'll know why the "negative waves".

Where ever you learned 5 angle valve jobs are bad was lying. The longevity of a valve job is comprised of the accuracy with which it's done, and the width of the actual seat angle. You can have a short-lived 3 angle, or a short lived 5 angle, or a long lived 5 angle depending on the roundness and width of the seat, and the fit of the guide. Loose (knurled) guides lead to bad valve jobs. Not the number of angles cut.

If you're eyeballing the port work then you're already placing far too much weight on your eyes. Flow testing is the only way to tell - and nothing you're stating is giving me good vibes about the choices or quality of this work.
 
-
Back
Top