What's a good intro welder for subframe connectors?

-
I might add the weld warrant any kind of work of beauty but no one has crawled under the car to tell me any different...
That's just my little secret, and yours now LOL...
 
i bought a used eastwood for my first welder
didnt come with a bottle so i slapped some fluxcore wire on it and im loving it

i welded exhaust with it, 4 wheeler frame, more exhaust, trailer hitches, subframe connecters, more exhaust
i love this thing, and i dont see any issue with a beginner using fluxcore
flip the polarities and you're good to go

sure, its a little dirtier of a weld BUT it can be done at any windspeed

of course, even my greatest weld looks like crap, but they all hold (i like to call them blind welds)
 
diymirage said:
i bought a used eastwood for my first welder
didnt come with a bottle so i slapped some fluxcore wire on it and im loving it

i welded exhaust with it, 4 wheeler frame, more exhaust, trailer hitches, subframe connecters, more exhaust
i love this thing, and i dont see any issue with a beginner using fluxcore
flip the polarities and you're good to go

sure, its a little dirtier of a weld BUT it can be done at any windspeed

of course, even my greatest weld looks like crap, but they all hold (i like to call them blind welds)
Click to expand...

It can also be argued that a good flux core weld is stronger than a mig weld on the same type material. That's a fact most people either overlook or don't know. And it is a fact. Even still, I prefer using a shielding gas of "some sort" as it sure keeps the spatter down. I'm pretty fair skinned and cannot STAND getting burned.
 
RustyRatRod said:
It can also be argued that a good flux core weld is stronger than a mig weld on the same type material. That's a fact most people either overlook or don't know. And it is a fact. Even still, I prefer using a shielding gas of "some sort" as it sure keeps the spatter down. I'm pretty fair skinned and cannot STAND getting burned.
Click to expand...
I'm not fair skinned and I don't like getting burnt! Unfortunately my tight *** can't afford a gas shield welder or I would have had one... I'm just forced to eat hot lead and do with what I have...
 
This only took me week to master with a Millermatic 211. :D

31A51C42-7952-46EC-BB01-096A5237B551.jpeg
 
moparmat2000 said:
Look at my restoration build thread 67/68/69 cuda dilemma . In this thread i show where to put 4 cheapo spirit levels to make sure the car is square, as well as how to make your own subframe connectors out of 2x3 box steel, and re route the parking brake cable cleanly. It's worth a visit.
Click to expand...
Awesome, exactly what I was looking for!
 
j par said:
I did mine about 6 years ago with my $89 flux wire Harbor Freight welder... In the height of the time I was drag racing. I made my own out of 4 ft sticks of steel from the steelyard..
Car pulled the front tire off the ground... They're still on there just fine...
I bought the steel at the steelyard, the Harbor Freight welder, the Harbor Freight gloves, and the Harbor Freight automatic helmet for less than a set of store-bought frame connectors that had to be welded anyways...
I built my sled deck for my snowmobiles with that Harbor Freight welder and every other job I've had to do and it still works perfect...
Click to expand...
Hey, it's good to know it can be done. I have a love hate relationship with Harbor Freight. I have a stack of tools that I brag about how well they work and how inexpensive they were. But I've got another stack that are broken and they won't let me return. You can spot my Harbor Freight Tools now because there's a receipt taped to each one, LOL!
 
Last edited:
j par said:
I might add the weld warrant any kind of work of beauty but no one has crawled under the car to tell me any different...
That's just my little secret, and yours now LOL...
Click to expand...
I won't tell a soul. Funny I used to work on a military base and they would often check the undercarriage with mirrors. So if you happen to go on a base and they do this and they look up at you with a questioning face, just say "my buddy welded it!", LOL.
 
I have a friend down the street who got the newer 125A HF mig. He welds EVERYTHING with it. Made a windmill, fenc/gate, implements for his tractor, etc. Hammer and nail sort of thing. it can go to 1/4 if you do it right. That said, as RRR said, flux is a stronger weld. Also, that HF unit will weld ANYTHING you care about on a uni-body car.
 
robcuda said:
Hey, it's good to know it can be done. I have a love hate relationship with Harbor Freight. I have a stack of tools that I brag about how well they work and how inexpensive they were. But I've got another stack that are broken and they won't let me return. You can spot my Harbor Freight Tools now because there's a receipt taped to each one, LOL!
Click to expand...


nk%2FYRxwM0AnI8sAfBUkrNp_4e5EyRDs-UWuwCLcB%2Fs1600%2FHFT%252Bpurchase%252Bdecision%252Bflowchart.jpg


FYRxwM0AnI8sAfBUkrNp_4e5EyRDs-UWuwCLcB%2Fw1200-h630-p-nu%2FHFT%2Bpurchase%2Bdecision%2Bflowchart.jpg
 
My two cents on this having done welder repair for 30 years. Any Lincoln, Miller or Hobart are good welders. That being said the older ones can be repaired much cheaper than the newer ones and tend to last longer. harbor freight can be an ok welder but when something goes wrong with it you can chuck it in the garbage because you cannot get replacement parts for them. Eastwood has some decent welders for a low price. They have pretty much copied some features from Lincoln and Miller to create a decent welder. If you have a choice get one with infinite control of both wire speed and weld voltage as that will give you the best settings. Ones with a tap selector while cheaper can lock you into certain wire speeds depending on which voltage level you pick
 
As long as your welder is heavy enough to have penetration (and your electrical service as well) You should be good. Most 130 amp wire feed welders (115v.) will weld up to 3/16". Floor pans and the subframe connectors are thick sheet metal so you should be good to go. I sure like my MAC 130 (made by Miller). Hobart and Century are good quality as well. I sold MAC/Astro welders for years. (made in Italy) They were really quite good for the price. 110 and 130 amp units. THey got to where parts and consumables were getting hard to come by. Something else to think about. You WILL need tips, gas shields and possibly liners. Brand name welders are easy to get parts for. Off breed ones not so much. Make sure you have good electrical service. You wil need a strong 15 amp 115v. service and no extension cords!
 
Dont forget a good weld thru primer to spray on where pieces lap or box together, and drill drain multiple holes in the bottom of your subframe connectors. I use a step drill bit and drill them out to 3/4"
 
moparmat2000 said:
Dont forget a good weld thru primer to spray on where pieces lap or box together, and drill drain multiple holes in the bottom of your subframe connectors. I use a step drill bit and drill them out to 3/4"
Click to expand...
Did not think about that, thanks.
 
I will expand on the HF welder I bought but have not used. my reasoning for buying the harbor freight was it tigs, migs and stick welds. I also believe it will flux core weld. but truth be told I am mostly interested in tig, but at this point only have stick experience. I paid $800 some dollars for it and when it breaks, it breaks. I figure I can buy 2 to 3 of these things for the same price and features that a miller or lincoln would offer.
 
also if you look online, there are other chinese welders that offer plasma cutting along with welding in a much smaller and more portable size.
 
If you haven't welded before consider taking a class at a local community college. Agree with comments on flux core, don't do it and get a bottle. Deals on used welders can be found FB marketplace and Craigslist, but a very few and far between and might not be worth the wait. Checkout weldingweb.com
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top