what's in that 340?

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Foomaster

Foomaster

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Hello,

Looking to build a 340 stroker and would like to see what other people dI'd with their stroker. Like a list of parts from bottom end to the top end including carb. What type of HP and torque you got if feasible. I am looking for streetable builds with mild strip intensions. Thanks

Oh is the Ebay auction for scat stroker kits from cluegg any good?
 
Specs of the 417 in my car:

4" Eagle forged crank
Eagle rods
Custom JE pistons 11:1 CR
Ported W2's
Victor W2 intake
Custom grind Comp roller 266/[email protected] .645 lift
MRL roller lifters
Holley 950HP
TTi 1-7/8 headers
91 Octane

I can't boast any HP numbers but it put my street car into the 10's on the second run with only 28 degrees total timing, no carb tuning, and drag radials. It might be a little more on the radical side for some people to be driven as a street car, but I think it has great street manners. MRL builds some real nice street friendly 416's. Search for some of his builds posted here.
 
clinteg said:
Specs of the 417 in my car:

4" Eagle forged crank
Eagle rods
Custom JE pistons 11:1 CR
Ported W2's
Victor W2 intake
Custom grind Comp roller 266/[email protected] .645 lift
MRL roller lifters
Holley 950HP
TTi 1-7/8 headers
91 Octane

I can't boast any HP numbers but it put my street car into the 10's on the second run with only 28 degrees total timing, no carb tuning, and drag radials. It might be a little more on the radical side for some people to be driven as a street car, but I think it has great street manners. MRL builds some real nice street friendly 416's. Search for some of his builds posted here.
Click to expand...

If you went 10.89 with 28° timing, I can almost guarantee you will pick up at least 3 tenths by bumping the timing up to 34°.

For what its worth....A couple years ago I slowed my car down about 1.5 seconds to run in sportsman. One of the many things I did was retard my timing to about 28°, and it slowed 3-4 tenths on that alone.

Give that thing the timing it wants and let her EAT! :D
 
Flyfish, post up details on your engine!

Foo- is that combo to radical for your idea?
 
Molner tech 4 inch crank
molner tech rods 6.123
icon forged pistons 8.5:1 cr for .04 overbore 340 (418)

(above kit from cambell enterprise)

main studs arp
mildly ported w2 heads
1.6 harland sharp rockers
hughes hydraulic roller lifters
custom lunatic camshaft 231/238 @.05 571/587 lift
modified six pack intke to fit w2 heads.
direct connection six pack carbs
tti 1 3/4 headers with full 2.5 tti x pipe exhaust


have not run yet as engine is still in building stage
 
rumblefish360 said:
Flyfish, post up details on your engine!

Foo- is that combo to radical for your idea?
Click to expand...

Ok...

360 block, 10.8:1 compression
4" Eagle forged crank (making it 410 cubes)
ARP main studs and head studs
Scat I-beams
Diamond pistons
Ported Edelbrocks
Small street roller 248/254 duration with .576/.582 lift
Victor intake
Home built Holley 750dp on e85
1 3/4 Headman Hustlers
727 with a TA reverse manual valve body, 8" PTC converter
MO875 rear with 4.10 gears, 35 spilne axles and a spool
Hoosier drag radials
3" exhaust with Dynomax bullets
About 3200-3250 pounds in street trim

It runs mid 10's in the 1/4 mile and picks up groceries from the store. :D
 

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flyfish said:
If you went 10.89 with 28° timing, I can almost guarantee you will pick up at least 3 tenths by bumping the timing up to 34°.

For what its worth....A couple years ago I slowed my car down about 1.5 seconds to run in sportsman. One of the many things I did was retard my timing to about 28°, and it slowed 3-4 tenths on that alone.

Give that thing the timing it wants and let her EAT! :D
Click to expand...

The second run I had it at 28 degrees and it went 10.99. I changed the timing to 36 degrees after that second run, but I had issues launching. My 60 ft didn't change at all but my mph went up. I just left it at 36 and didn't mess with the carb. I was mostly trying to find out how to launch the car that day and that's the only day I've been on a track. But knowing it did run the 10.99 at 28 degrees and a 1.7+ 60ft told me it had some more in it. I have no clue where I'm at with the carb so I've got a wideband A/F meter coming in the mail so hopefully I can get that dialed in. Also have a set of Hoosier slicks now that I need to find a set of wheels for. BTW, since your car is set up similar to mine, your times in your sig are my goal. Whether I get there or not, who knows! But that's where I'm headed.
 
416 stroker
k1 rotating assembly
diamond pistons
10.8 compression
1.6 harland sharp rockers
bullet cam 235/240@50 570 lift
rpm air gap intake
750 holley vac sec
elderbrock ported polished heads
ptc torque conv 727 trans and 391 gears

dynoed 502 hp and 580 ft/lbs torque

Have not got to run it till weather breaks hopefully will go 11's
 
Downsr. That is about the combo I'm looking to do for my '79 B body, Magnum. The cam is small enough to use in the heavy car with the 3.55's. Total brute torque!
Tell me about your head work!

Flyfish; do you think you can use more gear effectivly?

My Magnum is listed at 3675 lbs. with weight reduction in the normal areas. Wheels, intake, (RPM), headers, (Hooker Super Comps @ 1-3/4.) While 11's are not the target, one fully powerful street brute, N/A would be the best description I could give.

I feel that I may be in the same boat as far as the engine build idea goes as the OE poster.
(At least as far as my '79 Magnum is concerned.)
 
I don't think more gear would help mine, it has too much torque as it is....if I put a bigger cam in then yes, it could do a little more gear, but not much....
 
hey guys, I was just wondering what the cost range is on your'e above mentioned stroker builds hard cash wise, and how much of youre own labor you did. I have a 340 I will be building in the next year and a half and im just recently getting back to the car hobby so I know very little about stroker motors. I have a set of w2 heads I will be using and a couple of intakes for the w2s to choose from.
 
Specs for my MRL Performance 422:

1969 340 Block bored .060 over
SCAT 4” crank
PEP I-beam rods
ProComp aluminum heads - MRL Stage 2 porting w/chamber mods. 2.08 intake valves and 1.60 exhaust valves.
Diamond dish pistons (10:1 compression)
Total Seal rings
MRL Performance custom hydraulic roller cam with Lunati Voodoo lobes (239/243 Duration at .050, .550/.560 lift)
Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnum steel rockers
Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap intake
FAST EZ-EFI 2.0 fuel injection
Kevko M301 pan
ARP main/head studs
TCI Rattler damper
Daytona CD-1 ignition

Dyno'd by MRL performance - 547 horsepower at 5700rpm, 562 foot pounds of torque at 4350rpm. Mike was great to work with.

I've received the engine, but haven't yet dropped it in my 3,000lb Dart. Should be a blast to drive. Additional info below.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=305015
 
I'd say depending on what you throw at it, you'll spend $8-12K on a complete build. But that's all dependent on what you already have, machine work required, putting it together yourself, etc. So it could be less than the number I'm quoting.
 
You could, possibly, use a 360 Magnum with low miles and good cylinders as is and just pop in a rotating assembly for as cheap as you can get. Though I would not expect the world out of it ether. For a reasonable respectable daily driver that doesn't get the crap kicked out of it, it would be fine.
 
I am basically thinking of a 400 to 500 horse motor. I can buy a crate motor with all upgrades from Indy for a 408 stroker with about 465 hp For about $7500. I already have a 72 340 block only bored over .030 and was thinking it would be cheaper to build the 340 plus cooler for the duster. Opinions are welcomed. Again street, show car and maybe some strip for fun. I don't have a track close so once a year probably be the norm.
 
Heres mine before the (cheap rod) let go..
'72 340 block .030 decked and line honed
Mopar 4" cast crank
Eagle s.i.r. rods
Diamond flattop pistons 11.9 to 1 comp
Lunati "voodoo".533/.552 cam
Edelbrock heads mild port work
Comp pro magnum roller rockers
Edelbrock "airgap" intake port matched
Quickfuel 850 carb..
Ultimate 3800 stall converter
3.91 gears..
This combo went 11.0's@121 in a 3450(with me in it) all steel full interior,full exhaust '70 duster(except for the fiberglass hood):D:D
 
scat assembly 1-98013
edelbrock performer rpm heads 60775
edelbrock 750 carb.
not sure on cam yet
10.1 compression on pump 91 octane
What you think about these put together
 
Depending on the cam, the heads as they are, are not enough to feed 410 cubes.There the right parts but possibly in need of a porter.
I'd run the 800 AVS styled Edelbrock, not the 750.

What trans and gear ratio?
 
An older 422" build - kept on the cheap:
Eagle cast crank (won't use any more - go with Scat cast or Eagle/others' forged)
stock rods a/ARP bolts
Diamond pistons .060 over
Cleavite bearings
Speed Pro rings
"596" iron heads 2.05/1.65, ported by me to a Stage II level & completely redone for performance.
hydraulic cam 242°/252° @ .050, just under .500 lift at the valve w/1.5s
Summit billet roller timing set
MP tensioner
Stamped MP rockers w/HD shafts
factory windage tray pkg
Std volume oil pump
MP oil pump drive
Crosswind intake (never use again - go with what replaced it. RPM Air Gap)
Factory electronic ignition w/curve
reused all tinwork & hardware except main bolts
New water pump, fuel pump, fuel pump drive, 870 VS Street Avenger carb, Pro Products balancer
full block machining including one sleeve & internal balancing w/Mallory
Full cost before buying a 2nd intake was $6600 in '08 dollars
9.8:1, runs pump 87 w/10% ethanol. Based on weight and ET makes about 455hp in the car. Also get's 17mpg and has over 20K on it.
 
727 transmission and the rear is set up with 8 3\4 and 3:55 true trac gears.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Depending on the cam, the heads as they are, are not enough to feed 410 cubes.There the right parts but possibly in need of a porter.
I'd run the 800 AVS styled Edelbrock, not the 750.

What trans and gear ratio?
Click to expand...

How about the 607719 eldelbrock heads they are polished? But more expensive.
 
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