What's it worth? 1968 Dart 270

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Douglas Acebal

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I've been looking for a 1968 Dart or fastback Barracuda project for some time now.
I stumbled on this "drivable" slant 6 car, 7 1/4 inch rear end, drum brake car.

The complete drivetrain is worthless (to me) so my plan would be to donate it away to somebody.

There is very little salvageable about the interior as well. Even the steering wheel is destroyed. Maybe the back seat can be re-foamed and saved along with some instrument panel pieces.

He is advertising it at way more than I am willing to pay ($11,500) but is open to honest offers and he did admit the car is overpriced. Question I have is what's it worth?

1 owner California car, solid body/frame. Still has original black plate.

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The interior has plenty save-able. The big thing is it’s not very messed with. It’s got a shot dash pad, steering wheel and worn out front seat. That’s going to be typical.

One crack in a dash vs completely trashed is the same thing if you plan to have a restored interior.

Look at it for the good things that will nickel and dime you that are hard to find in good shape.
Look for the positive things:

  • It runs and drives, even though you don’t care about the drivetrain it’s a much higher confidence that the frame isn’t bent, or has some strange issue why it’s not running, and the electrical is Salvageable- new dash wiring is over $500
  • A-piller cover not cracked
  • steering wheel center with minimal pits,
  • lower dash pads crack free,
  • functioning complete ash tray (one year only),
  • panel rust in front of rear wheels
  • Good kick panels, arm rest bases, and/or door panels that can be dyed to your choice
  • Does it have a HD 22” 031 radiator?
  • The 22” fan shroud un-cracked is worth $125
That’s a choice car to make a 68 Hemi S/S clone car.

Yea, $11k may seem high. Need to really look at the how straight the bodywork is and rust on it.

If you’re not willing to pay $8K for it, someone else sure will. If it was a 72 Dart that would be different. A 68 270 model is probably the most desirable 60-76 Dart hardtop /6 car.
If you want to pay $5K for a car like this you’ll have to be the first one to discover it in a garage and it probably won’t be running.
 
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autoxcuda said:
The interior has plenty save-able. The big thing is it’s not very messed with. It’s got a shot dash pad, steering wheel and worn out front seat. That’s going to be typical.

One crack in a dash vs completely trashed is the same thing if you plan to have a restored interior.

Look at it for the good things that will nickel and dime you that are hard to find in good shape.
Look for the positive things:
  • A-piller cover not cracked,
  • steering wheel center with minimal pits,
  • lower dash pads crack free,
  • functioning complete ash tray (one year only),
  • rocker panel rust in front of rear wheels
  • Good kick panels, arm rest bases, and/or door panels that can be dyed to your choice


That’s a choice car to make a 68 Hemi S/S clone car.
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Agreed on the positives, but what is a more reasonable offer for the car? Do you see $11,500? My gut says half that, but I don't want to insult him either.
 
IF the body is really rust free, 5000, the 270 is a lower end model, GT would be more valuable. start adding up the parts that you will have to replace, interior 1500 to 2000, dash pad???? driver quality dash bezels 100 each piece, etc. and subtract that from the asking price, till you get to the real price.

front fender repair 600-1000 if you can match the paint.

Speaking of paint it looks way too good to be 50+ years old (repaint??? what's underneath???)


What's the story about the car, dead family member, relatives looking to sell it, looking online at restored cars and seeing $$$$

The good:
It looks to have all the trim!
 
'68cuda416 said:
3-4 thousand would be a great buy but I think 5 thousand is tops on it
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if that Yellow car has no trunk rust, no rocker panel rust, no fender dog leg rust… $5K is not going to buy it on the open market nowadays.

Ns1rm21 looked for 3 years for a 68 Dart starting in 2007 and couldn’t find a car in the shape of this advertised yellow Dart for $5K on the open market in Southern or Central California That was 15 years ago !!

This was what Ns1rm21 ended up with 12 year ago for $2500. No fenders, no front seats, rear end only, LBP disk swap, all blown apart. But.. NO RUST whatsoever.

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autoxcuda said:
if that car has no trunk rust, no rocker panel rust, no fender dog leg rust… $5K is not going to buy it on the open market nowadays.

Ns1rm21 looked for 3 years for a 68 Dart starting in 2007 and couldn’t find a car in the shape of this advertised yellow Dart for $5K on the open market in Southern or Central California That was 15 years ago !!
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I just bought a nicer one than that from California off of Facebook last year for 3,000 and at first I was like holy crap what a steal as it was listed at 3500 and thought it's gone already and I really don't need another car but after a week I rechecked and it was still listed so I got in touch with the owner and bought it for 3,000.
 
Dana67Dart said:
IF the body is really rust free, 5000, the 270 is a lower end model, GT would be more valuable. start adding up the parts that you will have to replace, interior 1500 to 2000, dash pad???? driver quality dash bezels 100 each piece, etc. and subtract that from the asking price, till you get to the real price.

front fender repair 600-1000 if you can match the paint.

Speaking of paint it looks way too good to be 50+ years old (repaint??? what's underneath???)


What's the story about the car, dead family member, relatives looking to sell it, looking online at restored cars and seeing $$$$

The good:
It looks to have all the trim!
Click to expand...

In this particular case, the 1968 270 is the best car to use for a 68 Hemi Super Stock clone. So the value 270 vs GT is much closer.

The 67-69 Dart GT model are basically just trim packages. The most have bucket seats and many have consoles. And a rear trim panel that can be used for a GTS clone. Many people delete the GT side trim when the car are restored or modified restored. Filling holes in panels is more time consuming.
 
'68cuda416 said:
I just bought a nicer one than that from California off of Facebook last year for 3,000 and at first I was like holy crap what a steal as it was listed at 3500 and thought it's gone already and I really don't need another car but after a week I rechecked and it was still listed so I got in touch with the owner and bought it for 3,000.
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Nicer than the Yellow running, driving, registered one the original poster is talking about?

Or the one on the trailer that NS1RM21 bought?

Any rust?

Lets see a picture of it.
 
Brooks James said:
@ $11,500, Run. Forest, Run
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I agree it won't sell for that.

These are tough deals when the seller is 30%-40% plus over market. It's like you need numerous other potential buyers need to make low offers. Then the seller hopefully comes to terms with reality. Then the last person in line gets it.
 
Dana67Dart said:
IF the body is really rust free, 5000, the 270 is a lower end model, GT would be more valuable. start adding up the parts that you will have to replace, interior 1500 to 2000, dash pad???? driver quality dash bezels 100 each piece, etc. and subtract that from the asking price, till you get to the real price.

front fender repair 600-1000 if you can match the paint.

Speaking of paint it looks way too good to be 50+ years old (repaint??? what's underneath???)


What's the story about the car, dead family member, relatives looking to sell it, looking online at restored cars and seeing $$$$

The good:
It looks to have all the trim!
Click to expand...

It is very faded paint. I did see some indication of bondo in a rear quarter, but it seems like all original paint. The car is solid, trunk and floors. Checked all the typical vulnerable areas. Even below the battery is pretty clean which surprised me. This one area/photo around the drip rail had me scratching my head too.

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Douglas Acebal said:
It is very faded paint. I did see some indication of bondo in a rear quarter, but it seems like all original paint. The car is solid, trunk and floors. Checked all the typical vulnerable areas. Even below the battery is pretty clean which surprised me. This one area/photo around the drip rail had me scratching my head too.

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That's normal. Good that it's not an original vinyl top car.

What does it look like on the very bottom rocker panel in front of the rear wheel. And very bottom behind the rear wheel. The drains get clogged there and rust from inside out. Especially on the passenger side when the car is parked on the curvature on the street. Then the rainwater or lawn sprinklers run off to the passenger side.
 
autoxcuda said:
That's normal. Good that it's not an original vinyl top car.

What does it look like on the very bottom rocker panel in front of the rear wheel. And very bottom behind the rear wheel. The drains get clogged there and rust from inside out. Especially on the passenger side when the car is parked on the curvature on the street. Then the rainwater or lawn sprinklers run off to the passenger side.
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I felt no weak spots probing with my hand but honestly didn't look. I'm not bleeding from a blind probe. lol
 
'68cuda416 said:
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Nice car. Very clean, You buy that from Chris E. in Ventura? I recognize that truck.

But that's not a running driving car like the yellow 68.

That's comparable to the roller NS1RM21 bought in 2008. That car came with a 8 1/4 A-body rear, complete LBP swap. And it was a 10 mile drive and he could see everything in person.
 
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