What's with all the sealed beam hate?

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PanGasket

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I daily drive with my sealed beams and I have no problems with them ever since I have hooked up proper ground straps where they need to be. They dim so little it is hardly noticeable. They are brighter than my buddy's '02 Ranger headlights and I have pretty boss visibility, probably the second best visibility out of any car/truck I have owned next to a '97 S10 which also had sealed beams! :cheers:

So what's with all the hate on 'em?
 
People fall for the propaganda that sells a ton of inferior products for the most part.
There are a few good quality alternatives to sealed beams, but most fall short on legal requirements by automotive institute safety standards.

Then there is the "I'm gonna be cool" no matter what crowd, and they also seem to be the "I don't care if my lights suck for other drivers" crowd.

It's pretty rare that you see good quality aftermarket lights, let alone that they are adjusted correctly.
Some of them should get a ticket on the spot.
 
And they are made of GLASS not PLASTIC and won't get foggy with age like the new plastic ones to.

My eyes are not cumfortable with the "new" style of lights. I'm more comfortable with the old sealed beams myself.
 
'Modern lighting' has come a long way since the 60's and 70's!

That said, there are correct and incorrect ways to improve your lighting and I find so many people just want brighter, whiter and bigger beam! Of course we all know that this can be dangerous to oncoming drivers!

A properly focused white light is what I am after. HID's were a great answer about ten years ago until people realized that the beam was way too wide and unfocussed. Then guys were taking projector lenses from other vehicles and retro-fitting them into whatever cars they had. This is a much better solution but its still not DOT approved!

Driving around town is one thing, but when I drive out to the lake or campsite out of town, this is when I really noticed the poor factory lighting in both my Dart and my 2010 Honda Fit. Even the Fit's OEM lighting is terrible! I will continue to search for a good lighting solution but not at the cost of safety and reliability.
 
People fall for the propaganda that sells a ton of inferior products for the most part.
There are a few good quality alternatives to sealed beams, but most fall short on legal requirements by automotive institute safety standards.

Then there is the "I'm gonna be cool" no matter what crowd, and they also seem to be the "I don't care if my lights suck for other drivers" crowd.

It's pretty rare that you see good quality aftermarket lights, let alone that they are adjusted correctly.
Some of them should get a ticket on the spot.
Yeah, I was gonna mention the note of Dan's few shpeals here and there about how good the sealed beams are compared to alot of the crap offered on the market that, as you said, fall short on DOT standards

What's funny is a few of the guys in my little car club have import cars and they laugh at all the guys with HIDs without them properly adjusted or in the correct housings. They do it for looks and it just blinds the crap out of everyone in front of you as the light is just going everywhere. My buddies who do have 'em setup proper, its not a huge difference between that and the standard headlight for their cars.
 
'Modern lighting' has come a long way since the 60's and 70's!

That said, there are correct and incorrect ways to improve your lighting and I find so many people just want brighter, whiter and bigger beam! Of course we all know that this can be dangerous to oncoming drivers!

A properly focused white light is what I am after. HID's were a great answer about ten years ago until people realized that the beam was way too wide and unfocussed. Then guys were taking projector lenses from other vehicles and retro-fitting them into whatever cars they had. This is a much better solution but its still not DOT approved!

Driving around town is one thing, but when I drive out to the lake or campsite out of town, this is when I really noticed the poor factory lighting in both my Dart and my 2010 Honda Fit. Even the Fit's OEM lighting is terrible! I will continue to search for a good lighting solution but not at the cost of safety and reliability.
Honestly, I live in the sticks. I live by the campsites and lake.:toothy10:

Hmm, maybe its also the fact that my truck sits fairly high stock.

Oops. Shoulda factored that in.:sign3:
 
The U.S. limit on high beam axial intensity was 37,500 candlepower per side of the vehicle until 1979, when it was raised to 75,000 candlepower per side of the vehicle*—*that is the current limit, though everywhere else in the world the limit is above 140,000 candlepower per side of the vehicle. Note this is a restriction on axial intensity, not a restriction on intensity anywhere in the beam.

This is why the sealed beam is not well regarded. Also the sealed beam bulbs were initially incandescent. This means that the light had a golden hue to it. This makes distinguishing between what is lit and what is not lit more difficult. The H2 / H4 bulbs tend to produce whiter light and makes the distinction more obvious. Note that the first US production car without sealed beams, the Ford Taurus, came out in 1986. Also, all measurements made at 12.8 v DC.

At the same time in Europe car headlights on high where limited to 110.000 candlepower each. The limit in Europe has varied from 102,500 to 215,000 per side of the vehicle over the last sixty years or so.

FWIW Dept.: Not all candlepower is good power. I have a single 55 watt yellow lens fog lamp, and a pair of 110 watt clear lens driving lamps. The latter are rated at 333,000 candlepower each.

On a clear night on a straight flat road, along with the high beams the driving lamps will illuminate non-reflective objects at up to 0.6 miles away, reflective objects will show up at a mile or more. If turned on to illuminate through fog, however, they render a visually impenetrable white sheet directly in front of the car. When turned on, everything else in the car gets dimmer.

The single yellow fog light, in conjunction with the low beams, in approximately the same amount of fog, yield slightly less distance than low beams only on a clear night. A clear fog lamp might give similar results, but IMHO, the yellow has less glare.



 
Honestly, I live in the sticks. I live by the campsites and lake.:toothy10:

Hmm, maybe its also the fact that my truck sits fairly high stock.

Oops. Shoulda factored that in.:sign3:

I think where should be considered. There are some extremely dark country roads here too. Can my aftermarket H4 lights prevent my hitting a dear ? I like to think so.
 
Scientific data don't lie.....That being said....how old are the lenses in your friends Ranger? If they are the factory ones they are no doubt worthless as the sun destroys them. If they were replaced with cheapo aftermarket ones that might also explain what you are saying....know this from experience. I recently replaced the lenses in our Explorer, put a set of relays on and a good set of bulbs. By far they best lighting I have ever driven behind. Notice I did not say brightest....as there is a difference.
 
Sealed beams are 70+ year old technology. There are way better alternatives available today. But as some hae mentioned, it requires the proper installation & aiming of whatever system you choose.
 
I like sealed beam lights. You can bang on the glass to bring them back to life when they start to die! I haven't been able to do that with the modern bulb-behind-the-foggy-plastic-lens light system.
 
Light distribution is why I went to H4's. The slightly whiter light is a bonus for not making my eyes tire as fast, but having light where I could use it and no light where it was useless was the decider for me. There's so much light pollution now that younger folks don't get just how dark the desert used to be. On a no moon night sealed beams just weren't enough. I converted the '66 Econoline that I first started driving out there to H4's AND added a set of low mounted driving lights. My Valiant now has Cibie' H4's and very likely will get a set of aux. lights mounted low.
 
I think where should be considered. There are some extremely dark country roads here too. Can my aftermarket H4 lights prevent my hitting a dear ? I like to think so.

My sealed beams have. I slammed a dozen eggs into the dash one night because a deer jumped infront of me and I hit the brakes and locked em up.

So, you should be good:cheers:

Scientific data don't lie.....That being said....how old are the lenses in your friends Ranger? If they are the factory ones they are no doubt worthless as the sun destroys them. If they were replaced with cheapo aftermarket ones that might also explain what you are saying....know this from experience. I recently replaced the lenses in our Explorer, put a set of relays on and a good set of bulbs. By far they best lighting I have ever driven behind. Notice I did not say brightest....as there is a difference.
Brand new, dealership installed 'em when he bought that truck recently. I actually have driven an '01 Explorer, my mom owned one. It did have good lighting, but to me, it wasn't anything better than the '03 Windstar we had. It was pretty good though.

I am pretty damn happy with my sealed beams and they are way out of wack too.
 
I own one vehicle with "aero" headlights, that being what I consider to be non-traditional headlights in that they follow the body line rather than dictate it. Ironically it is a '96 CTD. The PO bought new headlight lens/reflectors for it, no idea where from but they do not look anything like the OE lens fluting. They are OK on lows and terrible on highs. With an old HL system I'd just buy a set of Hella's, Bosch's, or Cibie's and solve the problem. With these I don't know that there is cure much less what it might be.

Reading some of the posts above it strikes me that there may be some confusion about H4 headlights. Not all of the H4 lens/reflectors use a plastic lens. All of my H4 HL sets (currently 5 of them across the brands I mentioned above) have glass lenses. That first set that I put in the Econoline had lens' that I suspect were crystal glass like a fine wine glass. I can't tell you why I think that, they just gave that impression. Unfortunately they succumbed to age (@ over 35 years old) and had to be recycled.
 
Enough experience with incandecent sealed beams that was one of the first things I wanted to improve.
Problem number 1. Sealed beam pattern is diffuse and in wet weather a lot of light is lost or reflected back.
Problem number 2. Incandescent sealed beams aren't very bright in illuminating the road relative to other road light including the headlights of other cars, street lights (except gas), etc.
A seperate problem mostly limited to A-bodies is the minimally sized wiring and this should not to be confused with the lamp issues.

Halogen sealed beams are an improvement because they are more efficient in producing light. Same wattage in halogen results in more lumens. (Dan has a chart of light for different bulbs on his website if your curious.)

H4 bulbs are even more efficient. Their big advantage is when placed in a good lens and reflector is placement of the light. It's on the road and up on the right. A strong cutoff line minimizes the beam reflecting off rain, snow and fog. In my experience, with Cibie and Hella H4s, the foglights became redundent. I ended up taking them off my Jeep - one day to be converted to cornering or driving lights,

Another advantage of H4 is that they keep working even if the lens is cracked by a stone or whatever. Further, if one does go out, its easy to grab a spare out of the glove box. For rallying or off roading, this is a nice bonus.

Are H4s perfect? uh no. If the road is wet black asphalt with no markers, its still hard to see. But they are perhaps the best option for any standand round or rectangular headlight. You do get spoiled though. When I was working at a gummymint job a few years ago, the truck I was using had regular sealed beams. I couldn't believe it. This was an '87 Dodge! Someone was pennypinching. Soon, a pair of used halogen sealed beams I had saved from my Jeep went onto that Dodge. H4s, no, but much better!
 
I like sealed beams and save all the d headlights out of the cars I part. When one goes out, I just slip another one in!! Keeps me from going too fast at night, and makes me slow down and enjoy the ride! Also keeps me alert to my surroundings! Been that way for years now, don't see a need to change!!
 
My take on this, our cars are old cars and drive them as such, if I'm on a rural highway, at night I drive accordingly, slow down and scan the ditches and roadsides for potential hazards, such as deer. sealed beams may be old technology but they still work, maybe not as good as new cars but I can't see spending a bunch of money for something that may or may not work.
 
No man, those purple ones are the coolest....and YES, I am kidding. I dont drive my Barracuda much at night but I remember my old one. The rear was so jacked up the std lights were pointing at the ground about 20 feet in front on me. I lived in the burbs so plenty of street lights. But I will put relays on my current '65, its simple and can be mounted to a box next to the radiator. This guy watched too many Disney "Cars"
auto-lights-accessories-car-led-lighting-custom-bulbs-parts-shoppmlit-oracle-mustang-uv-purple-headlight-_-fog-light-angel-eyes-demon-halo-rings-drl-headlamp-foglight-kit_12.jpg
 
i dont remember which it is, an H2 or H4 that my harley used, so using them in my valiant would be cool so i have a spare in either ride if one goes out.:violent1:
 
My 1978 W-150 had sealed beams in it when I bought it not even halogen.
You could not see anything at night.
I pulled the halogen lights out of my 03 wrangler and put in it, much needed improvement.
I put Hella H-4 dot legal lights in the wrangler since it gets drove the most and wow, clean crisp white light that is legal, a little expensive $100 but cheaper than hitting a deer on the way to work.
 
The only system I would use to replace good sealed beams is Dan Stern's H4 conversion using Cibie headlamps and H4 halogen bulbs. They are far superior to any sealed beams, but there are sealed beams out there that perform pretty good.
 
My '65 Valiant has my first Cibie's. Prior to that mostly Hella and some Bosch with some no-names thrown in. Haven't got the Cibie's dialed in yet as with the trans out there hasn't been much point.

I have yet to see a sealed beam that could compare to a good lens/reflector + H4 bulb, not even the halogen sealed beams. For years I ran a set of $20/each (in 1982 dollars) JCW H4 lens/reflectors made in Poland. They are still the high water mark that I compare all others to, and that was with legal 55/65W bulbs in them. None of the Hellas have been as good, but in their defense all of them have been the large rectangular light and I don't think that it was possible in the days that those were designed to equal the light pattern from a circular reflector. I've had two sets of Bosch's. One set was the small round HL's for a quad HL system. They came really close to equaling those Polish HL's. the other set of Bosch's were an extremely rare set for the tiny, tiny rectangular HL's that GM messed with for a couple of years in the early 90's. Those, in comparison to anything else, weren't all that great but they were light-years better than the sealed beams that they replaced and were hugely welcomed.

BTW, none of these lights have had relays driving them. All were on the OE wiring. I messed about with relays on one of those such equipped vehicles, but that OE does their HL wiring in a very strange way and while it worked with relays, it didn't work right. I've since uncovered how they do their wiring, but it hasn't yet been worth the trouble as I don't drive that truck at night very often. currently the Valiant is on the OE wiring, but as soon as I decide to pull the trigger on a relay/fuse base it will be getting relays as I expect to DD this car and it will see night driving fairly often.
 
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