Wheel hop. 68 383 4 spd

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Dave NEO said:
So took off the rear clamps - wound up to about 3600 and let it go. Holy crap! Nothing but a long burn and grab and go. Really go. No thumping or hopping or anything. No.1 I’ve been to too easy on my new clutch and this rebuilt A833. Must need this kind of love now and then Anyway I’m le ing well enough alone for now and ordering springs but have to careful which ones because

View attachment 1716156900

I really want to keep current stance. Thanks for all the tips in this thread.
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Well there you go, you learned something and it didn't cost any money.
Badass barracuda too dude.
 
(This from a stone stock 67 273 notch owner.....), I think you are currently about an inch or two higher than stock now, in the back. If you wanna keep it, I would suggest plus one inch springs. BUT! If the wheelhop is gone, I wouldn't be in a huge hurry to put new springs on it.
 
Really like the stance and no wheel hop. I would fix it if it aint broken!
 
Lefty71 said:
All of the above suggestions that it's time for new springs are spot-on. I just wanted to add a little information regarding the snubber itself. I'm sure you've seen people say "take that off and throw it away" or "you'd be better off losing that 5 pounds"...... Most snubbers are used incorrectly, and are of very little use to a guy with a street car anyway. In order for the snubber to be of any use, it has to be up against or very, very close to the floorboard of the car. That's not good for a street car, no doubt. MaMopar actually called for the Max Wedge cars, which were really designed for competition straight line acceleration, to run the snubber against the floorboard.
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When I was running street class with my Dart, I ran a modified pinion snubber with 245/60r-14 street tires because I had read about the Wedge cars like Lefty71 mentioned above and was out 60 footing cars with drag radials. I had it set to where it was tight up against the bottom of the car. It was actually pushing down a little bit on the nose of the hogshead when at rest. My brother has a Duster that runs 7.60s with drag radials and was running a pinion snubber setup. He thought it would hook harder with Cal-tracs so he put a set on there and didn't improve his times one bit. Just mine and my brother's experience. Both cars are automatics though.
 
A whole lotta other stuff has to happen in harmony with the snubber for best results .
Bolt a snubber on a stock chassis may help, - weight transfer, shocks, preload, all need attn as well .
Using the info in the Mopar Chassis Manual helped Calvert make something shiny to sell, - but perhaps not better.
 
nobody makes springs for my car... and the springs i have are closer in nature to bits of wet string than springs

i got over this problem with traction bars/slapper bars

lakewood generic
2 bars with flat plates and 2 big square U bolts per side

Lakewood 20475 Lakewood Traction Bars

I added a 1.5 inch block at the back mount to get the bar level under the car. didn't fancy catapulting myslef upside down should i catch one on a curb

replace the utterly crap lakewod front snubbers with lower A body front suspension snubbers
align the peakof the snubber with the bottom of the front spring eye on each side
Go race

no issues any more
i have not lost any teeth since and my sperm count is now back to normal

this ia a very 1970s way of doing things But yes Sir it works

leaves the line striaght or in cloud of rubber smoke slightly sideways if i over cook it, but the car is not trying to shake itself to bits. heavy clutch butstandard plate so i don't snap expensive things

pinion sunbber might work well with a locked diff???
but i have a torsen diff and standard shocks and the diff still has its off set centre

£40 second-hand well-spent
i could have spent on springs n shocks n snubbers n well lots of new things but pointless for 3 visits to the track each year in a Run-What-Ya-Brung class on street radials


Dave
 
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Those are the exact same ones I used on my 57. And you hit the crucial aspect: get the rubber snubber under the spring eye bolt. Some chevy/Ford apps actually need to be lengthened, should work perfect on a short front spring segment Mopar.
Summit sells the same slapper bar with their name on it instead of lakewood for $53 in my catalog.... but it's a couple years old. Probably joebidened to $75 now.
(paint em satin black like I did).
 
I used to have Lakewood "Traction Action" traction bars on my 4 speed Duster and never had any wheel hop with the snubbers up against the front eye of the spring like Dave999 said.
 
Dave NEO said:
So took off the rear clamps - wound up to about 3600 and let it go. Holy crap! Nothing but a long burn and grab and go. Really go. Rear raised up and flew- no thumping or hopping or anything. No.1 I’ve been to too easy on my new clutch and this rebuilt A833. Must need this kind of love now and then Anyway I’m leaving well enough alone for now and ordering springs but have to careful which ones because

View attachment 1716156900

I really want to keep current stance. Thanks for all the tips in this thread.
Click to expand...
Now put better rear shocks on it.
 
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