Wheel stud removal

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rumblefish360

rumblefish360

I have escaped the EVIL Empire State!
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Any tips for removing broken rusty wheel studs from the hub?

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You need to get rid of the "rivet" (swage). I'd be temped to grind it flush, if you don't have a press use a big *** drift (old bolt LOL) held in vise grips and BFH.....ammer

Rusty claims you can remove the swage with a hole saw

swage-jpg.jpg
 
Didn't someone post a link recently for a swage tool being made?
Ive never done it but watch you dont mess up the hubs removing the studs
 
I drill the center out in a couple stages, not going all the way through, and then put a punch in the middle and drive them out. Drilling them close to the size of the bore reduces the pressure. I have been told before this is wrong.......never had an issue myself!
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Those do not look swaged to me. Looks like you can drive them out with a BFH.
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I agree with previous post. They look like replacement studs, which were never swaged. A big hammer will probably work ok. If you want to be extra careful, you could support the other side with an appropriate sized socket.
The swage removal tool referenced in another thread was the Goodson tool, which was said to be going out of production.
 
Hammer time.
Tomorrow I'll be pulling an axle to do the same.
Put a socket behind it.
 
Hammer and socket - socket to 'em....

An if it still won't budge, put a torch to it to loosen it up a bit, then hammer....
 
I had an experienced brake man ruin my hub because he tried to drive it out with a hammer, so I've researched this. A couple of people have said that your studs don't looked swaged, but actually the one that is broken does look swaged and may be original.

"dgrille" talked about drilling out the center in a couple of stages, and I've heard others talk about this. I would either use his method or the special hole saw. I would NOT punch that stud out with a hammer or a press.
 
What Kuda said. Heat works wonders. Those pesky single row roller bearings (unsealed unpacked variety), place it on a piece of 1/2" or 3/8" sheet steel in the flat position. Do this close to the shaft it has to be installed on. Take your cutting torch, aim it at the sheet steel under the bearing right in the middle of the inner race, give it about 5 seconds with the tip close to the sheet steel as if your were going to cut it. With your heat resistant gloves grab the outer race, place it on the shaft. Should slide right on. Of course there is the hot oil bath method, but hey, I worked on rock plants, cutting torches and sheet steel were easier to find. Large nuts stuck on large threaded shafts, heat the nuts.
 
I agree with grinding it down as close to the disc as you can, then heat, PBBlaster, a hammer and a drift/punch. Grinding it down will heat it up a bit and the vibration may help loosen it a hair. Some PB - because the stuff works.. and then rap the SOB with a decent size drift/punch and a hammer. You shouldn't even need a BFH - just a RFH... Regular F***ing Hammer. :D
PPC905A.jpg
 
WOW!

Thanks gents. I didn't expect such long list or replies. I'll try some heat, PB & a drift pin. That's in house and the first thought. Sadly, no press or cutting tourch, though maybe a the tiny hole saw.

Between both hubs, I would like to replace them all myself. Some are spot welded on the back. A few have threads that are just worn out. Then it engauges but is not just right.

This is the last hurdle.
 
Hey Rob! I have a press and cutting torches and drill presses and milling machines and lathes and all kinds of gnarly tools! As a bonus, I'm right down the road and on vacation this week.....gimme a call.
Ron
 
4spdragtop said:
One spun wheel stud on the cuda and I told Dad we gotta tack them on. Works great
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I concur. Whatever the circumstances call for. Within reason that is. That is a reasonable fix. Undoubtedly I would forget I had done such a thing and curse some poor un-named fellow, until i recalled doing it myself. :BangHead: . HAPPY FATHER'S DAY Y'ALL!
 
rumblefish360 said:
WOW!

Thanks gents. I didn't expect such long list or replies. I'll try some heat, PB & a drift pin. That's in house and the first thought. Sadly, no press or cutting tourch, though maybe a the tiny hole saw.

Between both hubs, I would like to replace them all myself. Some are spot welded on the back. A few have threads that are just worn out. Then it engauges but is not just right.

This is the last hurdle.
Click to expand...
If the new studs will not hold, rather than spot welding them why don't you put slightly larger studs in? There are probably a hundred different size studs out there. Maybe you can find one with larger diameter spline, or maybe even go to 1/2" NF thread. You may have to drill the hub and drum together, but you're only taking a little bit of material out. Just leave one or two old studs and nuts tightened, drill the other ones, then install new studs, tighten some nuts on the new studs to hold the hub and drum together, then remove the rest of the old studs and nuts and continue drilling out the remaining holes.
 
I'd like to keep it simple and replacement stud sizes I will have to look into. I had one fall out but have yet to measure it.

I don't like your thinking. It is way overboard for a "What if."

What's wrong with a tach weld IF needed? I say nothing. IF you want to go the route of drilling the hub and drum, knock yourself out but if I don't have to why the hell would I?

You suggest extra work when it may not need be. Why would you suggest it? You assume to much.


rustycowll69 said:
If the new studs will not hold, rather than spot welding them why don't you put slightly larger studs in? There are probably a hundred different size studs out there. Maybe you can find one with larger diameter spline, or maybe even go to 1/2" NF thread. You may have to drill the hub and drum together, but you're only taking a little bit of material out. Just leave one or two old studs and nuts tightened, drill the other ones, then install new studs, tighten some nuts on the new studs to hold the hub and drum together, then remove the rest of the old studs and nuts and continue drilling out the remaining holes.
Click to expand...
 
We used to drill VW brake drums for studs, made it much easier when trying to change a flat in the middle of a desert race. Those VW stock lug bolts were a PIA even in the civilized world, let alone the middle of desert with the car teetering on a VW friction jack. What can I say, those funky little jacks were lighter than a bottle jack or screw jack. If you welded a long bolt across the top of the jack, you could use it for changing broken rear spring plates also. A common malady amongst early VW based dunes buggies.
 
Well, if it comes to pass (God forbid added work) I'll certainly keep it in mind. It would suck, but if it has wheels or ..... LMAO!

Perhaps in a few days I can report back. Thanks for the idea. Scary as the thought is ... more work ...
 
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