Wheel studs are causing problems!!!

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DartVadar

DartVadar

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I just got my new set of rims mounted and was all excited to get them on my car and then I figured out that the wheel studs are too short, I can only get about 2 threads in the lug nuts on, so that's far from safe.

It's a 73 dart with front disc brakes. So the front studs were easy, but the rears are causing issues. I took off the studs and measured about .669 thou, and the closest studs I could get are the Moroso .685 knurl and ARP .680 knurl studs. I already had a set of the Moroso studs so I tried to get them in place, I can get them in about half way on the knurl and then nothing. Is there any way I can get them on? Or do I have to try the ARP ones, but that's only 5 thou smaller.

I haven't been able to find a smaller knurl size that's long enough either.
 
Had the same problem with mine. I went to Orielys and they let in the back and measured a some until I found some for a Jeep that were about a half inch longer than the stock ones. Cost like 1.99 each.
 
They are billet specialties street lites, and for whatever reason the holes for the lug nuts are a lot thicker. So I don't think special lug nuts will give me much more thread.

And those may actually work.
 
Here are the wheels, those are with the old studs, I go new ones and I actually have less threads! Either way when the wheel is on there is maybe one thread sticking out.
 

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Oklacarcollecto said:
Are those the correct lug nuts that belong with the wheel?
Click to expand...

The ones in the picture are my old stockers, so they aren't. I wasn't aware that they would need specific lug nuts. I was looking on the billet specialties website and saw some that would probably work with the stock studs.

Think these are what I need?
http://www.billetspecialties.com/wheels/wheel-accessories/lug-nuts/mag-shank-open-end/

So essentially all that effort to change out wheel studs wasn't needed. So do you think I'll get enough threads with them? Says they are for the street lites which is what I have. So the 1/2 20? And i can get a 1/2 shank and a 3/4 shank, I assume the 3/4 shank would work.
 
Guess you beat me too it, those are exactly what I found. I'm sure they will work. But is the shank length the part that goes into the wheel and engages the threads?
 
Excellent! I've been pulling my hair out with these damn studs! So would the longer shank be better? I have 2 available, 1/2" and 3/4"
 
You need to measure the thickness where the stud comes through. Too long a shank and it will bottom out and the wheel will still be loose.
 
Bad Sport said:
You need to measure the thickness where the stud comes through. Too long a shank and it will bottom out and the wheel will still be loose.
Click to expand...

So the thickness of the wheel essentially? And that's true, didn't think of that.
 
DartVadar said:
Excellent! I've been pulling my hair out with these damn studs! So would the longer shank be better? I have 2 available, 1/2" and 3/4"
Click to expand...

Measure you wheel center thickness and figure a little for the washer to confirm the length you need. Also look and see if your stud is threaded all the way and order appropriately.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Measure you wheel center thickness and figure a little for the washer to confirm the length you need. Also look and see if your stud is threaded all the way and order appropriately.
Click to expand...

I will, and do you mean to make sure that the studs are seated all the way?
 
DartVadar said:
The ones in the picture are my old stockers, so they aren't. I wasn't aware that they would need specific lug nuts. I was looking on the billet specialties website and saw some that would probably work with the stock studs.

Think these are what I need?
http://www.billetspecialties.com/wheels/wheel-accessories/lug-nuts/mag-shank-open-end/

So essentially all that effort to change out wheel studs wasn't needed. So do you think I'll get enough threads with them? Says they are for the street lites which is what I have. So the 1/2 20? And i can get a 1/2 shank and a 3/4 shank, I assume the 3/4 shank would work.
Click to expand...
Canadian Tire has the pull-through lugs (Garnett),they may have the sizes you need.It,s what I used on my Weld rims..much easier than ordering,just to find out wrong size.:violent1:
 
How far do your standard studs protrude from the wheel hub or are they flush, or recessed?
Do yourself a favor and determine "actual thread engagement" for what you will use.
For example:
If the studs are flush with the wheel hub.
A lug with a .500" shank combined with a .100" washer provides approximately .400" thread engagement.
This is too little IMO.
You don't what to end up with this happening to you...................
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=268332&highlight=Wheel+fell
 
Daves69 said:
How far do your standard studs protrude from the wheel hub or are they flush, or recessed?
Do yourself a favor and determine "actual thread engagement" for what you will use.
For example:
If the studs are flush with the wheel hub.
A lug with a .500" shank combined with a .100" washer provides approximately .400" thread engagement.
This is too little IMO.
You don't what to end up with this happening to you...................
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=268332&highlight=Wheel+fell
Click to expand...

I just took a quick measurement with the rims, on with the old studs. The rims where the lug nuts go through is ~.812" thick and the studs stick out about ~.130"-140". So If I got the studs with a .750" shank, taking into account the .100" washer and the ~.130" protrusion from the rim I should have ~.780" thread engagement? Which should work...Or is my math wrong?

And jeez yea I think I want to try and avoid having that problem.
 
DartVadar said:
I just took a quick measurement with the rims, on with the old studs. The rims where the lug nuts go through is ~.812" thick and the studs stick out about ~.130"-140". So If I got the studs with a .750" shank, taking into account the .100" washer and the ~.130" protrusion from the rim I should have ~.780" thread engagement? Which should work...Or is my math wrong?

And jeez yea I think I want to try and avoid having that problem.
Click to expand...

Sounds correct to me.
 
In the future you can tell which lugnuts you need by looking at the wheel. If the area around the lug hole is beveled standard lug nuts should work.If its flat you need shanked lugs. Its the two different methods of perfectly centering the wheel.
 
I definitely have the wrong lug nuts then. Because the hole is flat, so shanked lug nuts it is. I will get some lug nuts with a 3/4 inch shank, so I should be good with that.
 
DartVadar said:
I definitely have the wrong lug nuts then. Because the hole is flat, so shanked lug nuts it is. I will get some lug nuts with a 3/4 inch shank, so I should be good with that.
Click to expand...

In the future you might want to buy the matching lug nuts when you buy the wheels and you won't have this problem.
 
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