Wheelies - Hypothetical Combo

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Define wheelie.. there’s picks the left front up 6” “wheelies” and there’s reach for the sky “wheelies”…
 
With suspension, everything is a trade off. Fast rise usually means a spongier feel on the street.
 
Define wheelie.. there’s picks the left front up 6” “wheelies” and there’s reach for the sky “wheelies”…
Let's say boh wheels off, 6-12" jut for the sake of a goal.
 
With suspension, everything is a trade off. Fast rise usually means a spongier feel on the street.
I have 15x3 wheels out front and had a spool for a while. Now i have wrinkle wall tires but a sure grip (havent driven much with this set up yet. Spongy already, but I want it controllable.
 
I read some of the first page has anybody said anything about filling the back bumper with lead?.. are we talking a power wheelie or a balance wheelie... There's a guy that I've raced with before that has a old fastback mustang that does high 13s low 14s and pulls a nice wheelie off the line... He's got junk in his trunk LOL...
 
100% stock suspension with adj pinion snubber, summit drag shocks on a 275 radial. 4200 vert leaving off idle. 4000# with me street car. Does probably about 6-8” wheelie.



Engine combo and gear??
 
I read some of the first page has anybody said anything about filling the back bumper with lead?.. are we talking a power wheelie or a balance wheelie... There's a guy that I've raced with before that has a old flashback mustang that does high 13s low 14s and pulls a nice wheelie off the line... He's got junk in his trunk LOL...
Thanks but not trying like that. More power, transbrake and more stall, more gear, etc. I want a quick car, and would like to do a wheelie. Concept talk here
 
400/512 with a 4.10 gear In the roadrunner.

pretty much the same engine in a dart with ladder bars and a brake. 4.30 gear

52ED2B91-8A40-4BB9-9FB7-BE66D95CB108.jpeg
 
Thanks but not trying like that. More power, transbrake and more stall, more gear, etc. I want a quick car, and would like to do a wheelie. Concept talk here
What really thought I had a concept there LOL..
I always thought the idea was to go forward not go up...
 
I have 15x3 wheels out front and had a spool for a while. Now i have wrinkle wall tires but a sure grip (havent driven much with this set up yet. Spongy already, but I want it controllable.

It all comes back to the driver and running out of talent. Don't drive the car like a slalom car, not likely with 15x3's, and it's fine. Know what is a smart safe operating environment and drive.

You won't find a does everything great set up. There is an interesting dynamic in the responses you give. Got to run it to find out if it is acceptable to YOU.
 
I have 15x3 wheels out front and had a spool for a while. Now i have wrinkle wall tires but a sure grip (havent driven much with this set up yet. Spongy already, but I want it controllable.
Those wrinkle walls with 12 PSI are great off the line but when you're doing 120 crossing the line they can get a little hairy...
 
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This is concept, yes. Drive and test the car, yes! Need some tuning and the right converter. Then see what I need. Just bench racing here (winter with more sub zero on the way) and if there are obvious changes, they will be added to the list.

Thank you all for the help.
 
I have expected to see replies of needing lots more HP and gear.
 
So, a discussion (winter bench racing about making the cars quicker) with friends came to the topic of a street strip car capable of a wheelie. We would like to do some track time soon. Yes, each set up is different, but what does it take? Also, I know with SS springs, the idea is lift in the rear vs squat so there is some fighting that too. More gear? More HP/TQ?

We can use my car as an example as an "average" car:

1971 Dodge Demon - all steel except hood, full stock interior
440 9:1 compression
ported iron heads
hyd flat tappet LSA 107° installed at 102° .518" lift duration 229/242 @50.
Weiand tunnel ram with Holley 660s
MSD Pro Billet ready to run distributor
2" headers, automatic RMVB
Current converter is incorrect 2500 - needs to be 4000-4200 tight (in my belief - also I would be willing to add a trans brake if needed) - next on my list
3.91 SG with 29.5x12.5 Hoosier Quick Time Pro
Super Stock springs (my case 002 spring on both sides).

*** PLEASE NO "6000 CONVERTERS, 6:17 GEARS, 4SPD CONVERSIONS, LIGHTEN THE CAR 1000LBS, 500HP NITROUS, TURBO, ETC. THIS IS FOR THE SAKE OF A CONVERSATION PLEASE"
I'll point out that quickness of the car has little to do with it's ability to wheelie. We have a fellow at our track that pulls a two foot wheelie every launch in his mostly stock pontiac GTO and only runs in the high 12s. Whereas I can only get about 3 inches of air in my mid 9 sec Duster with a 1.3 sec 60 foot time.

I've only been able to hit a big wheelie twice with perfect traction and I'll say it is scary to have the track disappear under the hood like that. Driving blind with a big wheelie takes more courage that I have and I'm happy my car does not wheelie. (but they do look really cool to watch!)

Nevertheless to address your question I'd suggest two batteries in the very back of the trunk, the biggest and softest and fresh bias ply slicks you can fit on the car at 8 PSI, and a transbrake as a good place to start. Then set the front suspension as many other posters have already suggested. That should do the trick in most any combination.
 
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I only ever raced one car of mine that didn’t do a wheelie and that was my 15 second Cutlass that I towed with. Here’s were it started back around 1977 in my 11 second street car.

B58DF182-0311-43FA-8909-3C6753AB6B43.jpeg
 
I only ever raced one car of mine that didn’t do a wheelie and that was my 15 second Cutlass that I towed with. Here’s were it started back around 1977 in my 11 second street car.

View attachment 1716040747
Ok. Now please share the set up at that point. Perfect example. I believe you are mostly a small block guy?
 
Ok. Now please share the set up at that point. Perfect example. I believe you are mostly a small block guy?

.030 over 340 with stock crank. Stock rods and Direct Connection pistons (TRW’s) .550 plus solid lifter cam (honestly can’t remember specs) polished j or x heads, 727 with 3800 stall, 8 3/4 with 4.10’s (10-28 slick on track) portasonic intake with 750 Holley. 90/10 shocks in front. Super Stock springs in back with Direct Connection long shocks.
 
.030 over 340 with stock crank. Stock rods and Direct Connection pistons (TRW’s) .550 plus solid lifter cam (honestly can’t remember specs) polished j or x heads, 727 with 3800 stall, 8 3/4 with 4.10’s (10-28 slick on track) portasonic intake with 750 Holley. 90/10 shocks in front. Super Stock springs in back with Direct Connection long shocks.
That's awesome
 
.030 over 340 with stock crank. Stock rods and Direct Connection pistons (TRW’s) .550 plus solid lifter cam (honestly can’t remember specs) polished j or x heads, 727 with 3800 stall, 8 3/4 with 4.10’s (10-28 slick on track) portasonic intake with 750 Holley. 90/10 shocks in front. Super Stock springs in back with Direct Connection long shocks.
This gives me hope for sure. Just want to know what it's like. Maybe a gateway and that's ok
 
I used to have a rusty *** 79 Ramcharger wire a 400 4 spd. In four low if you dumped the clutch it would pull the front wheels off the ground. You could also see it in the black marks that it would leave. There was a 12" gap in the front tire burnout mark. Yes, it would squeal/spin all four tires.
 
.030 over 340 with stock crank. Stock rods and Direct Connection pistons (TRW’s) .550 plus solid lifter cam (honestly can’t remember specs) polished j or x heads, 727 with 3800 stall, 8 3/4 with 4.10’s (10-28 slick on track) portasonic intake with 750 Holley. 90/10 shocks in front. Super Stock springs in back with Direct Connection long shocks.
.557 purple shaft sft maybe?
 
So, would the manconi (or other makers) adjustable front leaf spring mount do any good? It would allow to adjust instant center a bit. Or are those more for lowering the car?
 
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