Where do each of these wires go?

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fishfly said:
I installed the express kit and never referred to the factory diagram. I recall that on the column, I tested each of the 5-7 wires in all key positions...ign 1, 2, start, run, etc. To make it easier I made a small chart with wire colors on one side and key position on the other axis. If a wire had power in a particular position, I put a (+) in that box...if there was no power, I put a (-). I'd be careful about trying to follow the factory diagram as that may lead to confusion or assumptions that may not work out. I called RF once while I was installing and they were very helpful if you get to that point.
Did you get the car started? If I recall correctly, after the first bag, you should be able to start the engine. I followed the instructions bag by bag of wire in order.
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I agree one thousand percent with this post , spoken from someone who obviously has installed one with proper results . Ain't it grand when a plan comes together.:thumbsup:
 
Hey hold up ... I'm looking at your pics ... You counted 4????? I can obviously see five .... Not to mention that's pretty much the minimum you will see on any factory ignition switch . Black will be accessory voltage supply .
Blue and brown are ign 1 and ign 2 as far as I can predict ... You will see that one has voltage or continuity in crank position the other has voltage or continuity in run position .
 
Caliscamp72 said:
Hey hold up ... I'm looking at your pics ... You counted 4????? I can obviously see five .... Not to mention that's pretty much the minimum you will see on any factory ignition switch . Black will be accessory voltage supply .
Blue and brown are ign 1 and ign 2 as far as I can predict ... You will see that one has voltage or continuity in crank position the other has voltage or continuity in run position .
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My bad you counted right .... Statement as to colors still stand tho. Sorry I miscounted your post
 
If you are running MSD IGNITION ... The blue and brown can be soldered or machine crimped and sealed together to become your HOT IN RUN AND CRANK voltage supply . . Will work for any ignition that requires such voltages . NOT compatible with points and ballast resistor obviously
 
I'll pm you after work with 100 percent accuracy as to factory colors and function ... Since I've never installed RF KIT in anything later than 72... but I'm more than confident I am correct anyway . I get off today around 7 however since I gotta review my apprentices after shop is closed . So it'll be later in the evening .
 
I appreciate all the help for sure. So yellow is 12v constantly, black is accessory, blue and brown are ign 1 and 2. But what about the big red wire? And where would I hook ign 1 and 2 wires to? Sorry about the questions. This is my first rodeo on wiring a car.
 
Does any of this look right?

610E398C-9472-467C-8718-8B662F607CC8.jpeg
 
Cuda Al said:
That being said I don't think the factory wiring diagram would identify the function of the wire on the switch but just them going to the switch.

Alan
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So, I guess this means YOU HAVE NOT ever bothered to look at a factory service manual?
 
67Dart273 said:
So, I guess this means YOU HAVE NOT ever bothered to look at a factory service manual?
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I have for a great many years, my 67 book only shows wires going to the ignition switch but does not define their function, likewise with the wiper switch. At least with the wiper switch there is more information in the service section. The only way to know what each color on the ignition switch does is to ring it out, following the wires helps if you understand the functions.


Alan
 
67Dart273 said:
So, I guess this means YOU HAVE NOT ever bothered to look at a factory service manual?
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GEEZUZ KRIST PEOPLE. I'm an old man and when I started screwin with this stuff THERE WAS NO INTERNET. THERE WAS NOT FREEKIN TEAM TO ASK "for free." YOU FIGURED IT OUT ON YOUR OWN or WENT TO THE DEALER AND BOUGHT YOURSELF A SHOP MANUAL

HERE is the 73 shop manual. No guarantee it is quite the same, page 8-156:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1973_Dodge_Body_Service_Manual.zip

and

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1973_Dodge_Chassis_Service_Manual.zip

From page 8-156:

See the oval that says "CI-5" That means Connector, Instrument, number 5. Now wander back to page 8-168 and that will have a diagram of what the switch connector on the pigtail looks like

ignitionswitch73.jpg


ig732.jpg
 
67Dart273 said:
GEEZUZ KRIST PEOPLE. I'm an old man and when I started screwin with this stuff THERE WAS NO INTERNET. THERE WAS NOT FREEKIN TEAM TO ASK "for free." YOU FIGURED IT OUT ON YOUR OWN or WENT TO THE DEALER AND BOUGHT YOURSELF A SHOP MANUAL

HERE is the 73 shop manual. No guarantee it is quite the same, page 8-156:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1973_Dodge_Body_Service_Manual.zip

and

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1973_Dodge_Chassis_Service_Manual.zip

From page 8-156:

See the oval that says "CI-5" That means Connector, Instrument, number 5. Now wander back to page 8-168 and that will have a diagram of what the switch connector on the pigtail looks like

View attachment 1715190177

View attachment 1715190178
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"From the top"

S2 is the yellow start wire which goes through the bulkhead connector and ends up at one of the "push on" flag terminals on your starter relay

Q2 is the ACCESSORY wire is hot in both "run" and "ACC" and feeds power to the ACC buss in the fuse box

J2-12DBL (Dark BLue) is the "ignition run" or IGN1 and is ONLY HOT in "run"

J3-12BR (BRown) is the resistor bypass circuit (IGN2) and is hot in "start." THIS MUST BE CONNECTED to ign run (above) if you run an ignition not using a ballast resistor

J1-12R (RED) This is main power feed (hot at all times) coming TO the ignition switch from the ammeter circuit IT IS NOT FUSED

E2-18O (Orange) is dash dimmer controlled lighting for the **** quadrant

M16-20BK (BlacK) I believe is for the "key in" switch
 
A $3 test light will tell you what you need to know without having to follow factory wiring diagrams. For the purpose of installing this kit, it doesn't matter what wire does what on the old factory harness. All that matters is what key positions you have power or don't on the column wires and match that up to the RF kit by function. If I recall correctly the instructions in the column wiring bag even state what harness wire requires power in a given key position (don't make me walk down to the garage and fetch my instructions :) ). If you ever do end up calling RF wiring for tech support, that's the info they will be looking for to better help you. I want to "see" the power and verify, but there's more than one way to do it I suppose. Like Cali mentioned, with my column, I had to fuse two of the wires together (running MSD box). If I had tried to figure that out with a FSM, I'd still be in the garage be dried up like one of those cellar spiders in the corner. It's good you are asking questions and there are no dumb questions. Everyone here wants you to succeed...and you will.
 
fishfly said:
A $3 test light will tell you what you need to know without having to follow factory wiring diagrams. For the purpose of installing this kit, it doesn't matter what wire does what on the old factory harness. All that matters is what key positions you have power or don't on the column wires and match that up to the RF kit by function. If I recall correctly the instructions in the column wiring bag even state what harness wire requires power in a given key position (don't make me walk down to the garage and fetch my instructions :) ). If you ever do end up calling RF wiring for tech support, that's the info they will be looking for to better help you. I want to "see" the power and verify, but there's more than one way to do it I suppose. Like Cali mentioned, with my column, I had to fuse two of the wires together (running MSD box). If I had tried to figure that out with a FSM, I'd still be in the garage be dried up like one of those cellar spiders in the corner. It's good you are asking questions and there are no dumb questions. Everyone here wants you to succeed...and you will.
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Totally agree on all points... Especially there are no dumb questions . We are all definitely trying to help . " dried up like one of those cellar spiders ". That is too funny ... And accurate!
 
ok. I haven't confirmed if those are the exact wire colors you have. I'll need to go back in the thread and look at your pic, but it doesn't matter. As you see in their instruction, they only refer to what is hot in which position. A test light will solve that quickly and very easily for you...and if you like refer to that pic they sent you to verify that's the case. Make that little chart like I mentioned earlier in this thread and see what you get. I'm assuming what they sent you is correct, but nothing like being certain IMO. If needed, I will see if I can dig my chart up and send you a pic...but it's really just a 2in by 5 in. chart drawn on a piece of paper for those wires like I described. Doing it this way let's you see very quickly and easily what has power in which position since some wires will have power in multiple positions.
 
ok so I didn't find my smaller chart but this conveys the same info as an example. This is for the rewire I did on my LRE truck so don't trust the colors for your application

wire.jpg
 
Sure. Also, on the lower left of that paper you'll see the 4 items that the kit refers to in that particular wire/instruction bag. On the drawing, the top half is the connector coming out from the steering side of the column and the bottom half is the RF kit. You can see how each of those 4 items match up with the plus signs. Anyways, you might to go a different way. Good luck with it!
 
67Dart273 said:
"From the top"

S2 is the yellow start wire which goes through the bulkhead connector and ends up at one of the "push on" flag terminals on your starter relay

Q2 is the ACCESSORY wire is hot in both "run" and "ACC" and feeds power to the ACC buss in the fuse box

J2-12DBL (Dark BLue) is the "ignition run" or IGN1 and is ONLY HOT in "run"

J3-12BR (BRown) is the resistor bypass circuit (IGN2) and is hot in "start." THIS MUST BE CONNECTED to ign run (above) if you run an ignition not using a ballast resistor

J1-12R (RED) This is main power feed (hot at all times) coming TO the ignition switch from the ammeter circuit IT IS NOT FUSED

E2-18O (Orange) is dash dimmer controlled lighting for the **** quadrant

M16-20BK (BlacK) I believe is for the "key in" switch
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Great info of which I am totally aware and which it seems we both can utilize properly . Problem is most people starting out cannot utilize wiring diagrams and even some service info due to experience level.
And isn't it a good thing that people can inquire and utilize other people's experience and expertise in any given field including wiring a Mopar? I'm with you , don't get me wrong , I had learn the hard way thru trial and error , factory manuals and diagrams and salty mentors ( technicians) when I started my professional career in the automotive field but not everyone has that passion or quality and don't necessarily have to go that route . I feel like that is exactly why this forum exists.
Anyway just my opinion .
 
67Dart273 said:
GEEZUZ KRIST PEOPLE. I'm an old man and when I started screwin with this stuff THERE WAS NO INTERNET. THERE WAS NOT FREEKIN TEAM TO ASK "for free." YOU FIGURED IT OUT ON YOUR OWN or WENT TO THE DEALER AND BOUGHT YOURSELF A SHOP MANUAL
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i emailed him the factory electrical pages out of my 74' manual as a PDF after i first posted.
Caliscamp72 said:
Problem is most people starting out cannot utilize wiring diagrams and even some service info due to experience level.
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i learned by reading them...all the time. when i got my 73' challenger in the 80's, first thing was get a shop manual and learn to read it. if your willing to tackle a full re-wire, you have the capability to read one...
he'll learn
 
kursplat said:
i emailed him the factory electrical pages out of my 74' manual as a PDF after i first posted.
i learned by reading them...all the time. when i got my 73' challenger in the 80's, first thing was get a shop manual and learn to read it. if your willing to tackle a full re-wire, you have the capability to read one...
he'll learn
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Certainly. Yeah I pm,d him reference materials as well along with some long winded explanations , it'll all work out . How can it not with the wealth of experience here right!
 
I dont know of I'm in the wrong place to ask this but if you have a new aftermarket harness and you have the ballast resistor bypassed by conversion electronic ignition then how do you wire the ignition column?
Column side
Yellow
Dark blue
Brown
Red
Black
New harness column side
Pink-ignition coil
Purple-neutral safety
Red-ignition power
Orange-ignition accessory

Trying to figure out how to wire it cause I'm left with one wire on the column side? Any help appreciated
 
Can anyone help me with the ignition connector for my 72 dodge dart demon column key
10 gauge red is power in for the battery
10 gauge black does what
10 gauge blue goes to Ballast
10 gauge brown goes to coil side ballast
10 gauge yellow goes to starter relay
18 gauge black goes where orange on the dash side
2 x 18 gauge red wires go where black on the dash side

And when I use this wire do I disregard the the brown and orange wire from the fuse box
 
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