Where to go next? Low 11's high 10's??

Mopar Racers Forum

  1. PRH

    PRH Well-Known Member

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    I’ve run several motors on the dyno with NOS....... so I’ve pushed the button more than you have.
     
  2. B3422w5

    B3422w5 Well-Known Member

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    6 point bar is good for 10 flat anywhere.
    That said, i have always run an 8 point in anything slower than 10 flat. Those two angled bars welded through the rear footwell to the frame connectors are a very worthwhile upgrade. To me the car seems way more like its “ one piece” after doing so. Really stiffens things up. Very noticeable. Wouldn't ever not do so now
     
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    • j par

      j par Well-hung Member

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      Maybe we can ask a PHR if he's ever welded his own roll cage in and give you some pointers...:poke:..:D...
      I know I have and it was one hell of a pain in the butt...
       
    • 12many

      12many Well-Known Member

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      My welding typically looks like bird shit piled up. No way I’m tackling that!
       
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      • j par

        j par Well-hung Member

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        Turn up the heat or slow down the wire...
        It's not like you're uncapable it's just you need more practice...
         
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        • MOPARMAGA

          MOPARMAGA FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          How much cylinder psi would a 175 shot make ? the big block outer wall look awfully thin. My builder was pointing out the spots for me since I bought some power adder rods (molnar) just in case I wanted to go faster. But I don't know nitrous, how to do the timing retarding or want to try to find another 400 block. I'll leave it to the fuller wallet crowd.
           
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          • SLOPAR72

            SLOPAR72 Well-Known Member

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            Hey OP, cliff notes? You have a half second range on your current ET. What are your incrementals 60ft., 330ft., 1/8th?

            JW
             
          • j par

            j par Well-hung Member

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            I just re commented on my nitrous A1A thread to kind of reopen the conversation there and not muck up this threat anymore.. hot metal has answered many questions in the thread as well...
             
          • BVoelzke

            BVoelzke Dart Racer

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            Bigger cam, smaller/looser 8 inch converter.. I go 10.70s with an 8 inch converter with 4.30s but its a 408, 11.30s with an old 340 9 1/2 to 1 comp, 557 lift cam , ported J heads ,same converter but 4.56s. Lenny at Ultimate Converter Concepts has done two of my 904 8 inch converters, one in the car, my spare, and the lockup one for the 518 in my D150. Years ago I had a pretty mild 318 in my Dart ( while my broken 340 was being fixed ) it ran 13.20s with a 10 converter and 3.91 gears i put in an 8 inch and was going 12.70s. My last motor, a 363 ( Magnum 5.9 block, 30 0ver, W2 heads, 590 lift cam 11.5 to 1 comp ) ran a best of 10.40 at 125, 1.40 60ft with same converter and 4.56 gears.

            A09629D7-FAC5-439A-B05B-D67580C58E98.jpeg
             
            Last edited: Nov 29, 2020
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            • Hot Metal

              Hot Metal '69 440 Cuda

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              NOS is not for everyone but its exactly the opposite of your comment about the fuller wallet crowd in my opinion, how much would you need to spend to go 1 sec faster NA on an already tricked out combo than with say a 150 shot, I wanted to run a 9 in my 440 Cuda as my ultimate goal, could only manage a 10.7 NA, to go 9.96 in my case I would've had to take the motor apart and change pistons for a lot more comp, run race fuel, re-balance etc. etc. A 2nd hand Kit and a bottle fill got me to my goal.
              It doesn't matter how you do it, its doing it that counts. I wanted to do it NA of course first, I guess we all do. Get yourself a cheater or similar kit, read the instructions its not rocket science and do some research its all on the net if you look. Several ways to retard depending on jetting/comp/ fuel used as to how much.
              NOS kits were rich (much bigger fuel jet) back in the late 80's I only came back 2>3 degrees manually with no probs but then I never got the full hp out of the hit. Generally 1>2 steps colder plugs non projected depending on your combo, a good additional NOS fuel supply, some ign. retard again depending on combo/hp shot is important and off you go. Any mopar perf. motor with forged pistons will handle a 150 shot with ease without melting anything down. If anything a 400 block is better to use as long as its not much more than .020 over generally but have it sonic checked if your that worried about it.
               
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              • SLOPAR72

                SLOPAR72 Well-Known Member

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                Converter. Maybe the OP has a buddy he can borrow one from. Done that many a times. Mopar guys are typically harder to do that with however I don't know his network. But in today's market a good converter that really tweaks your combo ain't cheap. But the right one is a game changer....

                JW
                 
              • furrystump

                furrystump Well-Known Member

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                I would stroke it, much easier at a later date to pull the heads off and change heads or cnc the ones you have. You can change the cam while it is in the car. Build the best foundation then you can expand later if you want.
                 
              • BVoelzke

                BVoelzke Dart Racer

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                I agree, I picked up 52 lbs of TQ going from a stock stroke 360 to a 4 inch stroke R3 block and went from 4.88s to a 4.10 gear with 60fts staying the same, less rpm top end with same results. another way to look at it : my 363 made 549 hp / 450 tq , 11 1/2 to 1 comp on race gas...my 408 made 539 hp / 552 tq, 9 1/2 to 1 comp on 93 octane pump gas

                B9B6C2D1-417A-42D7-B78A-477316266268.jpeg
                 
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                • B3422w5

                  B3422w5 Well-Known Member

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                  how much did the ET change?
                   
                • BVoelzke

                  BVoelzke Dart Racer

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                  About 2 - 3 tenths slower from its absolute best which was in mineshaft conditions but I run on a throttle stop to run 11.50s so in my case it doesn't really affect me much, I switched mainly to get away from having to use race gas. I am now redoing my 363 / W2 motor for lower compression / pump gas but its going to stay stock stroke so hp and tq will be lower but should still be over 500 hp. I ran 340s for years but in my case the 360 I have made more power,as a matter of fact I am going tomorrow to pick up a 5.9 / 360 motor I picked up cheap. another example.. years ago I had a W2 head 340 with 12 1/2 to 1 compression and a 627 lift roller cam and it made 527 on the dyno. my 363 ( 5.9 Magnum block ) W2 head, 590 lift mech cam, 11 1/2 to 1 comp made 549 hp on the dyno... 22 more hp with less compression and cam but 20 more cubes ( 340 to a 360 ) both were bored 30 over. on the track ...340 ..high 10.70s average... 363 .. solid 10.50s.
                   
                  Last edited: Nov 30, 2020
                • flyfish

                  flyfish C8H18+N2O = :-D

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                  Bang for the buck, I would take off your Edelbrocks and get them fully ported. That plus more cam should get you close to what you want (would be better if you can afford an 8" converter too).

                  As far as nitrous goes, I ran a cheater kit for about 8 years when I lived in Colorado because the air is thin up there (over 9000' DA in the summer)...if you have your atmosphere in a bottle it helps a LOT. That motor I built specifically for nitrous use. Nitrous has is a low initial cost, but it gets expensive quickly over time if you use it a lot (bottle refills are NOT cheap, neither is race gas). I took my system off the car when I stroked my 360...no real need for it at that point. If you have specific N2O questions shoot me a PM, I'll try to help.
                   
                • aaronk785

                  aaronk785 Well-Known Member

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                  I said I would never run a power adder. But I just put on a nitrous kit. I do a little street racing. Got sick of getting beat by ls swap chevys with nitrous. I could do it na but car would no longer be street able for me. I actually drive my car 20 to 70 miles to race so 4.56 gears and 5000 stall plus race gas don’t work for me. So yes I caved.
                   
                • gregsdart

                  gregsdart Well-Known Member

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                  You just can't beat more cubic inchs. A 4 inch stroker kit will allow you to set compression where you want and give you a great base to work with. Everything else can be done later. The extra torque will really wake up the whole package.
                   
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