PRH
Well-Known Member
But he hasn't admitted as he doesn't know anything about it...
I’ve run several motors on the dyno with NOS....... so I’ve pushed the button more than you have.
But he hasn't admitted as he doesn't know anything about it...
That is my concern with doing the changes I have planned and having to run a bar of some sort afterwards. No idea what would be acceptable at a bigger track: 6-point or 8-point? But it won’t be slapped in for sure! Hell, I ain’t worried about rolling it, it’s the frontal impact that’ll do me in. Then they will just slap me in the ground
Maybe we can ask a PHR if he's ever welded his own roll cage in and give you some pointers........That is my concern with doing the changes I have planned and having to run a bar of some sort afterwards. No idea what would be acceptable at a bigger track: 6-point or 8-point or? But it won’t be slapped in that’s for sure! Hell, I ain’t worried about rolling it, it’s the frontal impact that’ll do me in. Then they can just slap my *** in the ground
My welding typically looks like bird **** piled up. No way I’m tackling that!Maybe we can ask a PHR if he's ever welded his own roll cage in and give you some pointers........
I know I have and it was one hell of a pain in the butt...
Turn up the heat or slow down the wire...My welding typically looks like bird **** piled up. No way I’m tackling that!
How much cylinder psi would a 175 shot make ? the big block outer wall look awfully thin. My builder was pointing out the spots for me since I bought some power adder rods (molnar) just in case I wanted to go faster. But I don't know nitrous, how to do the timing retarding or want to try to find another 400 block. I'll leave it to the fuller wallet crowd.I ran up to a 250 shot cheater kit on my stock '71 340 motor with no issues and also on my original 440-6 motor up to a 175 Big Shot kit with external oiling, no probs at all with forged pistons and a good fuel system for the NOS, I windowed a so called pro built s/roller 440 NA motor I bought that had an internal oiling system on it though, all I got out of that were the heads/cam and rockers, took me over a year to pay that off.
I just re commented on my nitrous A1A thread to kind of reopen the conversation there and not muck up this threat anymore.. hot metal has answered many questions in the thread as well...How much cylinder psi would a 175 shot make ? the big block outer wall look awfully thin. My builder was pointing out the spots for me since I bought some power adder rods (molnar) just in case I wanted to go faster. But I don't know nitrous, how to do the timing retarding or want to try to find another 400 block. I'll leave it to the fuller wallet crowd.
Bigger cam, smaller/looser 8 inch converter.. I go 10.70s with an 8 inch converter with 4.30s but its a 408, 11.30s with an old 340 9 1/2 to 1 comp, 557 lift cam , ported J heads ,same converter but 4.56s. Lenny at Ultimate Converter Concepts has done two of my 904 8 inch converters, one in the car, my spare, and the lockup one for the 518 in my D150. Years ago I had a pretty mild 318 in my Dart ( while my broken 340 was being fixed ) it ran 13.20s with a 10 converter and 3.91 gears i put in an 8 inch and was going 12.70s. My last motor, a 363 ( Magnum 5.9 block, 30 0ver, W2 heads, 590 lift cam 11.5 to 1 comp ) ran a best of 10.40 at 125, 1.40 60ft with same converter and 4.56 gears.It's okay most people are scared of what they don't know about......
How much cylinder psi would a 175 shot make ? the big block outer wall look awfully thin. My builder was pointing out the spots for me since I bought some power adder rods (molnar) just in case I wanted to go faster. But I don't know nitrous, how to do the timing retarding or want to try to find another 400 block. I'll leave it to the fuller wallet crowd.
Bigger cam, smaller/looser 8 inch convertor.. I go 10.70s with an 8 inch convertor with 4.30s but its a 408, 11.30s with an old 340 9 1/2 to 1 comp, 557 lift cam same convertor but 4.56s
I agree, I picked up 52 lbs of TQ going from a stock stroke 360 to a 4 inch stroke R3 block and went from 4.88s to a 4.10 gear with 60fts staying the same, less rpm top end with same results. another way to look at it : my 363 made 549 hp / 450 tq , 11 1/2 to 1 comp on race gas...my 408 made 539 hp / 552 tq, 9 1/2 to 1 comp on 93 octane pump gasI would stroke it, much easier at a later date to pull the heads off and change heads or cnc the ones you have. You can change the cam while it is in the car. Build the best foundation then you can expand later if you want.
I agree, I picked up 52 lbs of TQ going from a stock stroke 360 to a 4 inch stroke R3 block and went from 4.88s to a 4.10 gear with 60fts staying the same, less rpm top end with same results. another way to look at it : my 363 made 549 hp / 450 tq , 11 1/2 to 1 comp on race gas...my 408 made 539 hp / 552 tq, 9 1/2 to 1 comp on 93 octane pump gas
About 2 - 3 tenths slower from its absolute best which was in mineshaft conditions but I run on a throttle stop to run 11.50s so in my case it doesn't really affect me much, I switched mainly to get away from having to use race gas. I am now redoing my 363 / W2 motor for lower compression / pump gas but its going to stay stock stroke so hp and tq will be lower but should still be over 500 hp. I ran 340s for years but in my case the 360 I have made more power,as a matter of fact I am going tomorrow to pick up a 5.9 / 360 motor I picked up cheap. another example.. years ago I had a W2 head 340 with 12 1/2 to 1 compression and a 627 lift roller cam and it made 527 on the dyno. my 363 ( 5.9 Magnum block ) W2 head, 590 lift mech cam, 11 1/2 to 1 comp made 549 hp on the dyno... 22 more hp with less compression and cam but 20 more cubes ( 340 to a 360 ) both were bored 30 over. on the track ...340 ..high 10.70s average... 363 .. solid 10.50s.how much did the ET change?