Which air gap manifold?

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TimDart

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Guys, thinking of moving away from current Edddy Performer inlet to an Air Gap.
which would be best for fast street use and occassional strip;the Performer (0-5000rpm) or the Performer rpm (1500+)?
motor is 360, 9-1-0 compression, XE268 cam, 2400 stall, 3.55 or 3.91 gear
Interested in opinions
 
I may be wrong, but I believe the RPM is the only one available in the Air-Gap style.
 
The 1500 to 6500 is the way to go. Even if you only spin it to 6000, the power increase will be huge compared to the regular dual plane manifold. I have seen a heavy drop top street Dart go 13.7 with the Air Gap on a Magnum 360, 3.55's and a four speed (Hughs Cam).
 
Eracer, you are worng, theres 2 styles of RPM intake for the Mopar small block. They are;

Air gap and regular RPM that has a heat crossover.

The Big block engines naturaly have a air gap style intake from the factory.

Tim, if your car is more street driven in a normal driving manor AND it see's cooler to cold temps, the the regular RPM air gap that is heated may be better for you as so to increase drivability. And quicker drivabilty as well.

Ethier intake is more in line with the cam you have though the Performer isn't a poor choice, the RPM will be much better for the larger displacement engine and current set up you have listed.
 
Theres actually 3 performer intakes: the performer 318-360,which has the smaller 318 ports,the performer rpm which is for the 340-360 ports,and of coarse the best dual plane intake on the market the performer rpm "air gap"...if you live in a cold climate and drive your car on a regular basis in the cold months i'd suggest the performer rpm,it'll do a better job of help to warming the carb up,the air gap is basically designed to keep heat away from the carb,which makes it a better racing/performing intake....
 
Eracer, you are worng, theres 2 styles of RPM intake for the Mopar small block. They are;

Air gap and regular RPM that has a heat crossover.

The Big block engines naturaly have a air gap style intake from the factory.

Tim, if your car is more street driven in a normal driving manor AND it see's cooler to cold temps, the the regular RPM air gap that is heated may be better for you as so to increase drivability. And quicker drivabilty as well.

Ethier intake is more in line with the cam you have though the Performer isn't a poor choice, the RPM will be much better for the larger displacement engine and current set up you have listed.

You are correct, the RPM is available in both styles, but he was wondering whether to choose the Performer or the Performer RPM. The standard Performer is not available in an Air-Gap version.
 
Thanks guys, you have me still in two minds. Truth is, the car will never be making less power. so i'm tempted to go for the rpm higher performance option.
The car is for fun use only so i can afford to compromise. Currently i have the XE262 cam and the 'stock' ish Performer intake.

Interested to know what extra power i will feel by moving to XE268 cam and air gap performer intake,and if it will hit drivability very much, if at all.
 
Thanks guys, you have me still in two minds. Truth is, the car will never be making less power. so i'm tempted to go for the rpm higher performance option.
The car is for fun use only so i can afford to compromise. Currently i have the XE262 cam and the 'stock' ish Performer intake.

Interested to know what extra power i will feel by moving to XE268 cam and air gap performer intake,and if it will hit drivability very much, if at all.


That would be a very good, streetable combo. That cam would work good even in a daily driver. I would go up to the XE274 and the eddy RPM air gap for a weekend/fun car though. But thats just me.
 
Theres actually 3 performer intakes: the performer 318-360,which has the smaller 318 ports,the performer rpm which is for the 340-360 ports,....

Technicallly, your incorrect.

There is the "Performer."

Then there is the "Performer RPM" series in 2 flavors, regular and air gap.

There is a name similarity (sp? ) but they perform differently.
To group them togther is wrong.
 
That would be a very good, streetable combo. That cam would work good even in a daily driver. I would go up to the XE274 and the eddy RPM air gap for a weekend/fun car though. But thats just me.

Need to change valve springs with the 274H.
 
Thanks guys, you have me still in two minds. Truth is, the car will never be making less power. so i'm tempted to go for the rpm higher performance option.
The car is for fun use only so i can afford to compromise. Currently i have the XE262 cam and the 'stock' ish Performer intake.

Interested to know what extra power i will feel by moving to XE268 cam and air gap performer intake,and if it will hit drivability very much, if at all.

I think you'd be happy with the power gains by switching both. I have a XE268 cam and the RPM Air Gap intake. I used to have a Edelbrock Torker 340 intake and switched to the Air Gap. The power increase was definitely noticable. Made it alot easier to spin the tires.
 
Like blueduster said, I went from a Torker 340 with a 268 comp to an air gap with the 268 comp. Very noticeable increase in power.
 
Thanks guys, looks like it'll be worth the change.
Other rebuilds this year include putting a Suregrip in the rear and using MT Darg Radials at the strip.
Current et is14.2 (98mph)due to the wheels spinning so much off the line. Hoping to bust into the 13s (mid 13s?) next year once all the above changes are in place.:thumbrig:
 
Thanks guys, looks like it'll be worth the change.
Other rebuilds this year include putting a Suregrip in the rear and using MT Darg Radials at the strip.
Current et is14.2 (98mph)due to the wheels spinning so much off the line. Hoping to bust into the 13s (mid 13s?) next year once all the above changes are in place.:thumbrig:


Totally off-topic question ... how difficult is it for you folks in the U.K. to aquire new Mopar performance parts? - where typically do you get them? Just curious.
 
It all depends on what i need to get. There is a very strong Mopar Muscle Association with the emphasis as much on performance and racing as restoration. The Air Gap i can get from the UK and most suspension & service parts. If i want specialist parts, then a week or so to imort from the states. Sometimes I buy direct from the states, but can get biten by postage costs which are currently very high. In general, there has been nothing i cannot source for the Dart over the past 5 years of ownership. Just a little forward planning required!

Dart v charger.jpg
 
Interesting ... good for you guys! That yellow one is yours then? - nice, very nice!
 
Thanks guys, looks like it'll be worth the change.
Other rebuilds this year include putting a Suregrip in the rear and using MT Darg Radials at the strip.
Current et is14.2 (98mph)due to the wheels spinning so much off the line. Hoping to bust into the 13s (mid 13s?) next year once all the above changes are in place.:thumbrig:


FWIW, I am running the Profesional Products Crosswind intake with a Cop XE268H cam. The Crosswind is very similar in design to the RPM AirGap but has slightly smaller ports. I am also running magnum heads, a 670 Holley Street Avenger carb and 3.55 gears with an A833OD tranny. My best 1/4 mile is 13.7 @ 102 mph with a misreable 2.2 60' time and that was with a 600 cfm carb (no numbers on the 670 but the butt dyno tells me the top end is stronger). I figure if I sort out the lack of traction and wheel hop off the line its an easy low 13 car.
 
I'm with dgc333, the Crosswind is an excellent intake. Pluses are price,dual mounting bolt pattern for LA and Magnum smallblocks and bosses for injectors if you swing that way.
Bob
 
Thanks Guys,
I'd be happy running into the 13s. As the pic shows, I have no traction either. I'll be fitting a Suregrip and either 3.55/3.91 gears )just need the price of £Stirling to rally a bit!), I also now have some Drag Radials which should help get the traction down and lower my 2.37 60' marks
 
If you're racing, buy the AirGap, the cooler air charge is worth 10ths. BUt heed R/Fishes advice on cold climates.

I blocked the heat riser on my LD340, it dropped the operating temp by 15deg F.
 
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