Which kit?

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

What we are saying is this…….. I will be as clear as I can.

You will spend $500.

Any gains in "Quickness" will be so small that they will not matter in the real world and may not even consistently show at the track.

Your stopping power will most likely not be improved because your car set up does not compliment or need rear discs.

So again….. If you like rear discs, get them. They are cool. But don't buy rear discs if you are doing it for some performance gain because you won't see it.

Your parts issue would be solved by knowing what rear brakes you have.

(You need to know what car 11 1/2" brakes came on)

For example…… If those brakes came on a 1972 Plymouth Fury, when you go to the parts store, ask for 72 Fury rear brake parts.

And thats what got me here...I did that and Got the parts That didnt not fit. The brake pads had no slot for the E brake and the Wheel Cylinders were incorrect as well. Maybe I should Say Im doing it for the Cool factor so that you dont have to repeat yourself over and over again, sorry.

 

[1968FormulaS340]

Ok, I understand now. You ordered parts. You got the wrong parts. Because of that you are putting a new rear brake system on your car.

It is all clear now. Sorry I didn't understand before.

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

Ok, I understand now. You ordered parts. You got the wrong parts. Because of that you are putting a new rear brake system on your car.

It is all clear now. Sorry I didn't understand.

Correct, I told the people the the Correct car because I researched it and the parts were the "correct ones" when looking up the make/model and 11in brakes, but when trying to install they were not.

 

[BlueSwinger]

You probably got cheap foreign crap at AutoZone that wouldn't have even fit on the right car.

 

[Wheel Chock]

The Summit kit is what I installed on my son's car last year, it is a plain-wrap SSBC kit and installation went very smoothly. I had 1 technical question, don't even remember what it was now and when I called Summit, they referred me to SSBC, who answered my question.
As I said, that was a year ago and we've had no problems. Just make sure that you're running "green" bearings, because the adjusters for Timkens cannot be accomodated.
I have dealt with Summit many times and have always received excellent service, even when I've neede to return products.

I'm not sure the same can be said for an E-bay seller who is merely having product drop-shipped that he most likely knows little about; after all he says that he specializes in 'Bow Tie" restoration.

 

[plumcrazy 101]

What would these ways be? Im not looking to RACE ONLY, but to lighten the car as much as possible because Like I said, The motor is done and theirs no ability to make it faster unless I lighten the car up and raise the power to weight ratio.

If your intentions are to race this car seriously, and I mean drag race, the summit kit or the ebay kit is probably are the wrong products to be using.
I would suggest a Wilwood kit or a Strange Engineering kit that use better and lighter components and sell for under $500.
There's alot of better ways of spending $500 than on disc brakes or aluminum driveshafts to make a car go faster IMHO but again its your money.

Well there is many way to lighten a car but here's a few idea for you

Replace the hood, trunk lid, front and rear bumpers with light weight fiberglass replacements.
Lighten the front fenders and doors with metal removal.
Replace all steel bumper brackets with light weight aluminum.
Remove all unnecessary bolts and washers
If this is an occassional street car, consider lexan windows.
Aluminum radiator
Remove windshield washer tank, heater core and hoses, wiper motor and linkages, radio and antenae.
Consider light weight seats and removing the rear seat.
Remove door panels and replace with aluminum.
Move battery to rear of car and replace with light weight batteries
Gut the tail light housings

And this list could go on and on..

One thing to remember.... You likely won't find a hundred pounds in one spot waiting to be removed but if you look in 1600 places

Hope you get the idea

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

Sorry, I've gotta get some new batteries for my crystal ball - I don't know what you've done suspension wise. Tell us all what your current suspension setup is.

bump just waiting for a reply before I order the kit in a week. Rather have traction then get lighter.

 

[Revhendo]

Dang, my internet was out yesterday. I didn't get a chance to comment on asian female drivers talking on cell phones while doing their make-up. I'm bummed.

 

[ocdart]

bump just waiting for a reply before I order the kit in a week. Rather have traction then get lighter.

Sorry I didn't jump right on posting a reply - Thursday is "bowling night", my one night out of the house during the week.
Anyway, sounds like you have a good start on your suspension with the right components. But just because you have all the right parts doesn't mean they're working together. It's gonna take some trial and error testing to find the right combination of settings to maximize all the components for either the strip or the street - can't do both.
When using an adjustable pinion snubber, don't forget to reinforce the floor where the pinion snubber comes in contact. You'll end up with a concave floor if you don't reinforce it.
You may already know the following and, if so, I apologize for wasting time on it: You say you've already "lowered the front to get good weight travel when taking off". Just lowering the front end won't do that. Classic 'old school' methods of improving weight transfer for drag racing includes using slant-six torsion bars and either worn-out shocks, dedicated 90/10 shocks, or adjustable shocks on the front end to allow it to rise quickly upon initial acceleration and then slowly return to an approximate 2-degree nose-down attitude during the run. The quick front end rise at throttle hit moves the center-of-gravity rearward and transfers weight to the rear to help plant the tires - working in conjunction with your SS springs, longer rear shocks, and adjustable pinion snubber. Works on the dragstrip but not the hottest and best handling combo for the street.
Moving your heavy battery from the engine compartment to the passenger-side trunk area behind the rear wheelwell will also help move weight to the best possible area to help plant your rear tires.
This is all 'old-school' Mopar stuff. But, hey, I'm 'old-school' since I first tried to do the street-strip thing in my '69 340 Swinger back in the very early '70s. What I've learned in the years since, that people told me back then but I wouldn't believe, is that you can't have it both ways. You either maximize for the street or for the strip. Anything else is just a compromise.
Back to the brake topic - if, as you previously said, you're doing it for the "cool factor" then go ahead and buy $500 worth of "cool". Just don't expect results that aren't going to be there.

 

[turbodart68]

bump just waiting for a reply before I order the kit in a week. Rather have traction then get lighter.

The jist here is that he has gotten frustrated ordering parts for a car that is 400 miles from him that he works on when he can get home to work on it. He is a young kid that is learning volumes getting this rear swapped out. I offered to get the rights parts from my awesome parts house that I use for all my ardvark weirdo old cars. Upon further consideration he decided he wanted to put the discs on the rear. He is trying to put together a car that suits his liking on a budget. So dont beat up on him too much here he is learning and a lot is lost in translation to the key board. Oh by the way it WILL stop much better with four wheel discs. I voted for the light weight Wilwoods.

Dang, my internet was out yesterday. I didn't get a chance to comment on asian female drivers talking on cell phones while doing their make-up. I'm bummed.

Hahaha you must live in SoCal!

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

Sorry I didn't jump right on posting a reply - Thursday is "bowling night", my one night out of the house during the week.
Anyway, sounds like you have a good start on your suspension with the right components. But just because you have all the right parts doesn't mean they're working together. It's gonna take some trial and error testing to find the right combination of settings to maximize all the components for either the strip or the street - can't do both.
When using an adjustable pinion snubber, don't forget to reinforce the floor where the pinion snubber comes in contact. You'll end up with a concave floor if you don't reinforce it.
You may already know the following and, if so, I apologize for wasting time on it: You say you've already "lowered the front to get good weight travel when taking off". Just lowering the front end won't do that. Classic 'old school' methods of improving weight transfer for drag racing includes using slant-six torsion bars and either worn-out shocks, dedicated 90/10 shocks, or adjustable shocks on the front end to allow it to rise quickly upon initial acceleration and then slowly return to an approximate 2-degree nose-down attitude during the run. The quick front end rise at throttle hit moves the center-of-gravity rearward and transfers weight to the rear to help plant the tires - working in conjunction with your SS springs, longer rear shocks, and adjustable pinion snubber. Works on the dragstrip but not the hottest and best handling combo for the street.
Moving your heavy battery from the engine compartment to the passenger-side trunk area behind the rear wheelwell will also help move weight to the best possible area to help plant your rear tires.
This is all 'old-school' Mopar stuff. But, hey, I'm 'old-school' since I first tried to do the street-strip thing in my '69 340 Swinger back in the very early '70s. What I've learned in the years since, that people told me back then but I wouldn't believe, is that you can't have it both ways. You either maximize for the street or for the strip. Anything else is just a compromise.
Back to the brake topic - if, as you previously said, you're doing it for the "cool factor" then go ahead and buy $500 worth of "cool". Just don't expect results that aren't going to be there.

Yes everything stated i have already done, as I have the 90/10 shocks. I dont want the /6 bars though. The ride on the street is fine with me, I just think some over react and think their car is going to handle like a lowered race car. I know what my car is and its a street/strip car. Handling doesnt matter to me because I dont go over 65 on the street at all nor do I try to take turns hard. And their is no anger in any of these post, I just know that I have researched the needs for the suspension already because I know asking too many questions tends to annoy people. The only thing i havent done yet is reinforce the floor for the snubber, I have read it, but havent done it and I will soon. And Moving the battery to the back as stated earlier is not a problem with me, but if i want to race in a class I dont want to get a cut off switch, but thanks for the info.

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

The jist here is that he has gotten frustrated ordering parts for a car that is 400 miles from him that he works on when he can get home to work on it. He is a young kid that is learning volumes getting this rear swapped out. I offered to get the rights parts from my awesome parts house that I use for all my ardvark weirdo old cars. Upon further consideration he decided he wanted to put the discs on the rear. He is trying to put together a car that suits his liking on a budget. So dont beat up on him too much here he is learning and a lot is lost in translation to the key board. Oh by the way it WILL stop much better with four wheel discs. I voted for the light weight Wilwoods.



Hahaha you must live in SoCal!

Thanks alot Chris I do appreciate your helping me with everything. I do want the Wilwoods, but only if I can sell these 11in some how, otherwise the Summit kit is what I will be getting since it comes with everything and the Wilwood kit you showed me does not.

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

Ok so the final decision is still to go to disc, HOWEVER since the car is in NorCal and I cant race it anyways.. Im just going to rebuild the brakes until right before I get it down here. That way I can rebuild the front and get TTI headers and more and the Disc last.