Which Master Cylinder?

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cybrtygr32

1967 Ratfish Fastback
Joined
Jun 23, 2008
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This has been answered a 100 times i'm sure (forgive, cause i'm old) I am swapping brakes to my 67 Cuda from73 Duster. Can i just use the master cylinder reqiured for manual disc brakes? I have a good booster, but wasn't sure of the degree of difficulty. I also have the proportioning block from the Duster as well. I guess the question is "power or manaul with the disc. Thanks guys, I have used this sight to completely modify the old Cuda.By the way, i've seen several discussions here about the caliper being in the front or rear. Mine was to the rear of rotor on the wrecked duster. Would you place it to rear on the cuda as well?
Mike in
Alabama
 
From what I understand a disk brake master will have a larger resevoir in the back required for disks. Not really sure what you have on there now. I guess I dont fully understand the first part of the question. I put my calipers on the front and I run an aftermarket sway bar too. Jut had to ease the corner of the upper mount that bolts to the lower shock bolt for clearance.
 
Sorry about the confusion "71. My question is, "Can I just use a master cylinder designed for "manual" disc brakes rather than putting in the booster and creating power brake set up". It would still stop good and have a decent pedal wouldn't it? I know the power brake set it would probably be better.
Thanks for the reply.
 
On power or manual your choice. there will be a little less pedal effort with the power but better "feel" with the manual. Either one will be a world of improvement over your existing drum setup (I assume that is what you currently have). As far as the calipers, if you have the stock front sway bar the caliper will hit if the calipers are mounted in the front, so you need to put them on the rear. With a '73 and up K and sway abr the calipers can front mount. Most aftermarket sway bars will keep the ends in tight enough to provide clearance, but be sure and check. Learned that lesson with a '68 FB with stock sway bar.
 
My 67 has manual disc. When my master cylinder started to leak I did some research and ended up putting a 71 to 76 power master cylinder on, (if memory serves me it is the same part for 71-76, mine was for a 76).
I still have the manual brakes, but the effort is less and the braking is much better. It also bolted right on.
 
The biggest problem with using '73-'76 A body manual masters for disc brake swaps is winding up with a pedal that feels like a rock. Using a power brake master is iffy because they do not have the pedal pushrod retainer groove. I used a '74 Charger manual disc master and I have braking from the time I put my foot on the pedal all the way to lock up. Effort required is on a par with power brakes. This is on a '66 Valiant with '75 Duster discs in front and 10" drums in the rear. The master cylinder bolted right up and the stock manual brake pushrod fit perfectly. I arrived at this setup by thinking back to the best stopping Mopar I ever had. It was a '74 Charger with manual disc brakes.
 
Mine has the groove, and I ordered a power master for a 76 Dodge(?)
 
Had a manual master w/1.125 bore on my Cuda and it worked great. Just finished changing the 72 Duster over to discs from a 75 model. I used the 75 manual master w/1.031 bore and it seems to work well, but I'm guessing that I need to bleed the brakes again, cause it seems a little spongy.
 
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