Which rocker arms would you run?

[oliver]

I've got a pretty mild solid roller 340 and a few different set of rockers i can run on it. The cam is a comp 288r solid roller. Currently it has a set of 1.5 harland sharp full rollers on it, one adjuster snapped and that led me to find out the roller tips are also out of round and the shafts have worn where the rollers ride. Personally i think this was a crappy set of rockers and shafts and HS seems to agree but i would have to pay for a full rebuild and new shafts on em. I've also got a set of crane golds, the original comp magnums that are non bushed, and a set of ductile rockers. Out of those 4 what would you run? Personally im leaning towards the crane golds. None of the others have the 'beefiness' that the HS rockers have, but they crapped the bed after less than 5k mi. and full roller is a bit much for a street car.

 

[Wyrmrider]

If you have not raised your shafts you need to with any roller tip read B3's website
also check your balls 9/32 from bottom of Iron rocker to the tip of the ball
YMMV with aluminum rockers as they are different thicknesses
Problem is that the distance from the bottom of the threads and the ball has increased greatly
so you want the ball as close to the bottom of the rocker as you can get it and still adjust the preload/ clearance
adjusters screwed down further- pushrods too short snap off
rocker arm specialists in Redding area CA can bush your rockers and set you up with the proper shafts
roller with the needles on the shaft take different shafts than bushings
how much lift on that cam?
550 or less Iron rockers work just fine and USUALLY do not require shaft relocation

 

[dogbreath]

what heads ?

 

[rumblefish360]

@Wyrmrider

Excellent post except you didn’t answer his question.
Good job!

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

The comp cams rocker arms are what I'd run 1st.

 

[rumblefish360]

The comp cams rocker arms are what I'd run 1st.

And what I’m running now.

 

[71DodgeDemon340]

Prw rocker arms on my 340

Just a suggestion, maybe worth a look

 

[Wyrmrider]

can't answer his question
one set needs bushings
two others need shaft spacers
his budget not mine
needs shafts
let him sort out the costs and time and new pushrods etc

 

[fishmens67]

I'd run the ductile rockers and save my coin for a set of PRW's and a correction kit from B3. best BANG for the buck.

 

[Wyrmrider]

sounds good to me
RAS hard chrome shafts with the banana groves for the ductile rockers and keep the balls 9/32 from the bottom of the rocker when ordering pushrods

 

[oliver]

If you have not raised your shafts you need to with any roller tip read B3's website
also check your balls 9/32 from bottom of Iron rocker to the tip of the ball
YMMV with aluminum rockers as they are different thicknesses
Problem is that the distance from the bottom of the threads and the ball has increased greatly
so you want the ball as close to the bottom of the rocker as you can get it and still adjust the preload/ clearance
adjusters screwed down further- pushrods too short snap off
rocker arm specialists in Redding area CA can bush your rockers and set you up with the proper shafts
roller with the needles on the shaft take different shafts than bushings
how much lift on that cam?
550 or less Iron rockers work just fine and USUALLY do not require shaft relocation

Did not know that about the roller rockers. The adjuster didnt snap off near the ball, it snapped off on top. Was bad hardening on the adjusters, adjusters were less than one thread out of the bottom of rocker. The roller tips are all out of round, and the shafts were supposed to be hard chrome but have all wore out where the rollers ride. The cam has .550 lift minus some lash so ~.535 lift net.

what heads ?

ported and polished iron x heads.

can't answer his question
one set needs bushings
two others need shaft spacers
his budget not mine
needs shafts
let him sort out the costs and time and new pushrods etc

I have pushrods to suit every set. and can easily send a set back to manton to be made shorter/longer if needed. Im thinking of using the ductile arms for simplicity.

I'd run the ductile rockers and save my coin for a set of PRW's and a correction kit from B3. best BANG for the buck.

Im thinking of running the ductile as-is and seeing how they hold up.

sounds good to me
RAS hard chrome shafts with the banana groves for the ductile rockers and keep the balls 9/32 from the bottom of the rocker when ordering pushrods

Just checked the measurement on the ductile rocker with another set of pushrods and the balls are at .300 with lash. Is there a need for banana grooves when running a mechanical cam?

 

[rumblefish360]

No, but there important when the rpm’s go high.

 

[yellow rose]

Did not know that about the roller rockers. The adjuster didnt snap off near the ball, it snapped off on top. Was bad hardening on the adjusters, adjusters were less than one thread out of the bottom of rocker. The roller tips are all out of round, and the shafts were supposed to be hard chrome but have all wore out where the rollers ride. The cam has .550 lift minus some lash so ~.535 lift net.



ported and polished iron x heads.



I have pushrods to suit every set. and can easily send a set back to manton to be made shorter/longer if needed. Im thinking of using the ductile arms for simplicity.



Im thinking of running the ductile as-is and seeing how they hold up.



Just checked the measurement on the ductile rocker with another set of pushrods and the balls are at .300 with lash. Is there a need for banana grooves when running a mechanical cam?

Yes, use banana grooves. Are you saying the adjuster is down .300? If so, that won't work. You'll need longer pushrods.

And (there is always an and or a but) if you do need longer pushrods, regardless of which rocker you use (even the ductile iron rockers) you need to call Mike at B3 and let him help you correct your geometry. Then order pushrods.

I don't care what rocker you use, but I'm not a fan of needle bearings on a shaft that big. I suspect that's why you failed a rocker. My best guess is a geometry issue.

Get the geometry corrected before doing anything else.

 

[oliver]

Yes, use banana grooves. Are you saying the adjuster is down .300? If so, that won't work. You'll need longer pushrods.

And (there is always an and or a but) if you do need longer pushrods, regardless of which rocker you use (even the ductile iron rockers) you need to call Mike at B3 and let him help you correct your geometry. Then order pushrods.

I don't care what rocker you use, but I'm not a fan of needle bearings on a shaft that big. I suspect that's why you failed a rocker. My best guess is a geometry issue.

Get the geometry corrected before doing anything else.

I was doing some reading and it seems like he was implying the ductile non roller tip rockers do not really need geometry correction. Either way i will verify geometry when i mock up a set. This is how far the adjuster is down

 

[yellow rose]

I was doing some reading and it seems like he was implying the ductile non roller tip rockers do not really need geometry correction. Either way i will verify geometry when i mock up a set. This is how far the adjuster is down

View attachment 1715217335

You don't have to correct the geometry if you are using all stock parts. As soon as you change lift or some other variable, the geometry goes off. If you have any questions, call him.

As for how far down the adjuster is, that looks like a bunch BUT, I don't remember where the oil feed hole is. As long as the oil feed hole to that adjuster isn't being blocked by the pushrod cup, or the cup is so far down that the oil will squirt out and be so far above the cup it just goes past it, you'll be ok.

 

[oliver]

You don't have to correct the geometry if you are using all stock parts. As soon as you change lift or some other variable, the geometry goes off. If you have any questions, call him.

As for how far down the adjuster is, that looks like a bunch BUT, I don't remember where the oil feed hole is. As long as the oil feed hole to that adjuster isn't being blocked by the pushrod cup, or the cup is so far down that the oil will squirt out and be so far above the cup it just goes past it, you'll be ok.

These oil through the threads. No oil hole except for the one you see.

 

[yellow rose]

These oil through the threads. No oil hole except for the one you see.

So the oil goes around the threads and onto the adjuster?

Damn, now I need to go dig out my 273 rockers and see how they see drilled.

 

[oliver]

So the oil goes around the threads and onto the adjuster?

Damn, now I need to go dig out my 273 rockers and see how they see drilled.

yep, exactly. very simple but works i guess.

 

[nm9stheham]

The threading stops above the oil hole and the hole is relieved in the bottom so there is room for the oil to flow. The adjuster stick down through that area and 'intercepts' the oil squirt to keep it going to the ball and cup. Almost like they knew what they were doing LOL

 

[threewood]

I would use your Crane Gold.

I recently had a set of Crane ductile go tits up. Tips wore prematurely, getting plenty of oil even. Had them mounted up on hardened chrome shafts with the banana cuts. RAS quoted me around $500 to fix the tips, bush the bores and fit the shafts....yea, no.

 

[fishmens67]

you can make grooves in the shaft with a die grinder, just be sure there are no sharp edges. you can drill more holes in the shaft as well. wouldn't be the first time a shaft was modified, done many

 

[oliver]

I quickly measured lobe lift and got .355, I bolted a pair of the ductile rockers and set it for .015 lash and measured gross lift at the valve and got .520. theoretically with a 1.5 arm, .015 lash, and .355 lobe lift I should be at .5175. looks like the geometry is pretty good.

 

[yellow rose]

I quickly measured lobe lift and got .355, I bolted a pair of the ductile rockers and set it for .015 lash and measured gross lift at the valve and got .520. theoretically with a 1.5 arm, .015 lash, and .355 lobe lift I should be at .5175. looks like the geometry is pretty good.

That has nothing to do with geometry.

 

[oliver]

That has nothing to do with geometry.

Think about that for a sec. If the geometry was off a significant amount. There would be a large loss in gross lift.

 

[yellow rose]

Think about that for a sec. If the geometry was off a significant amount. There would be a large loss in gross lift.

Not always.