Which traction bars to keep?

[halfafish]

Somehow I have three sets of traction bars . I only need one set, for my 69 Dart. It will be a kinda ratrod thing, a nice 340 in it but I'm not making it a giant killer - just a fun driver.

The chrome bars are generic, I see no ID on them.

The ones in the center have no name on them but take the place of the shock plates and have the lower shock mounts on them. These are the heaviest of the three by a fair margin.

The Lakewoods are nice and have three spots for the forward bumper.

Is there any thought process for which ones to keep and which to sell?

 

[sr71mopar]

#2. I put a set like that on my Barracuda and they made a big difference.

 

[mopowers]

Measure them and keep the ones that put the snubber directly under the spring eye.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Use the middle ones as long as the snubber fits under the spring eye.

 

[318willrun]

Middle ones will function the best, as long as they fit your car properly. The two outside sets need a corner cut off so it don't cut your tire. You can see the middle set is already beveled.

 

[A56]

The middle ones that utilize the U-bolts.

 

[Charrlie_S]

My personal opinion is That Mopars don't need that type of traction device, if they have the proper rear spring.

 

[Daves69]

As others say the middle set is better, then too, more involved.
For just "a fun driver", I wouldn't sweat that bumper location so much. Many didn't way back.
You could always measure them up and add length before you install.

Looks like the shock plates are drilled for "J" bolts as well if ya' get more serious.
Here's what they look like installed..........

Consider the outboard clearance for your tires/wheels with use.

 

[33IMP]

Measure them and keep the ones that put the snubber directly under the spring eye.

THIS^^^^ is the correct answer.
I had good luck with the simple Lakewood style (#3, on a 57 chevy/4sp) cause I could install it far enough forward to get it under the spring eye.
Otherwise, I would use the shock plate version.

 

[matthon]

On a set that includes the shock plates, what would be the reason to extend the traction bar beyond the shock plates?

My car had these traction bars on it when I got it.
I took them off as the large square shock plates need to be trimmed to fit the larger tires I put on.
I will be putting them back on, and painting the 'correct' color, knowing they have no function, in my case, other than returning to full Day 2 stat.

 

[forphorty]

On a set that includes the shock plates, what would be the reason to extend the traction bar beyond the shock plates?

My car had these traction bars on it when I got it.
I took them off as the large square shock plates need to be trimmed to fit the larger tires I put on.
I will be putting them back on, and painting the 'correct' color, knowing they have no function, in my case, other than returning to full Day 2 stat.

View attachment 1716393378

I am only guessing. Maybe for hard braking? I saw a video of an old road test . Can't remember what car. They were measuring stopping distance. Hard stops made the rear section of the spring flutter quite a bit.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I am only guessing. Maybe for hard braking? I saw a video of an old road test . Can't remember what car. They were measuring stopping distance. Hard stops made the rear section of the spring flutter quite a bit.

Correct. The extra in the rear is to clamp on the rear segment to limit the downward travel of the bars at the front when braking.

 

[matthon]

Admittedly, it seems like a 'no duh' in hindsight, and thinking about it for a few seconds.

 

[jbc426]

I've always had to cut and weld the Lakewood bars I use to get proper fitment. The do stiffen the rear ride slightly, but the increased traction they provide is astonishing. I also cut the rubber snubber in half to decrease it's deflection under load, and use stronger mounting hardware than comes with them.