who runs 13sec to 12.80 in the 1/4

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I think this is going to be a long thread.......

About a 1/4 inch down? Yikes. You need some personal help over there and a few tools. WHO is local to help out? We gotta get this straightened out and the ball rolling well on this.
 
its liek ..... that many dots down give 2 at max haha sorry guys if i had the tools i would know
 
naw becasue then i have to get new rings and im not going to spend more money then i already did for this crap motor
 
nope no numbers on the top

and now hes saying he dident offer as warrente or anything and this is jsut the story the guy told him when he sold him the motor
 
I missed that part. As Adam suggested, try a little scraping and see if you can come up with some ID #s.

But if the pistons are the ones in the picture, it won't matter much. They are obviously dished. You can slap a blower on there with forged, dished pistons but then your costs will skyrocket.
 
naw becasue then i have to get new rings and im not going to spend more money then i already did for this crap motor

The 360 is not a crap motor. It is a good foundation and you can build it to perform. I think the responses from the other members in your other threads are a step in the right direction. They will help you build it right the first time. You don't need to spend a boatload of money, you just need to invest in some key pieces. You've compiled some good info and pieces but compression is going to kill your build. The cam you selected will not work as well with 8-8.5 compression, you need to get that # up between 9-9.5. Especially if you are looking to run the times you want to run.
 
As I said before, you either go to small claims or just take the hit and go on. As so many others have all ready said, you are going to need new pistons if you want to run the #s you mentioned. That is, unless you plan on running a supercharger & we know that is not going to happen so please no multi-threads about superchargers) .

I know money is an issue but if I were you, I would hit up the parental units or save up until you have the money to build it using old and new parts that are not going to work well together. Be patient and save up.
 
well i guess i have to bite this one i really dont want to but the guy called me a dumb ***


and no one answerd me if i can shave the heads to raise compression with these pistons and if not i guess im going to get kb 10 pistons
 
Here you go.

75 Dart Swinger. 3480Lbs with me in it.

360 .030 over
Weiand x-cellerator intake
cam is sum 20-232-4 .480/.480 lift 280/280
9 1/2" X 26" MT's
Mp performance convertor 2400-2600 stall
8 1/4 suregrip with 4.10's
KB 107 pistons
Holly 600 DP
Cheetah manual valve body
904 tranny
SS springs
3 way adjustable shocks
MP distributor with msd2 coil
Iron "J" heads with stock valves and mild port
Dynomax headers with X pipe, 2 1/2" exhaust
Magnaflow "wideopen" mufflers

60' 1.83
1/4 12.95@103.69
 
yea, i beleive you could shave the heads, but i think you would have to shave em quite a bit to get the compression you want, the money you spend on that would be better placed in some new pistons.
 
Yes.

I would have had to shave alot to get 10 to 1 with the stock "dish" pistons I had. I would have had to shave the intake also and maybe shorter pushrods.

For me, it was simpler and more cost effective to just get new pistons.

210-232-7417 call me, I am at work right now.
 
its 1 am and i got school tommrow but i guess im going pistons and going to have to save up thanks to mr dick who sold me the motor
 
Before you buy the pistons that 70dartman has, make sure that your block is definitely standard bore and that it doesn't need to be opened up. Also, are those KB107s the one you need?
 
this is not going to go very well...

you need to take that to someone who knows what they are doing, or stop and take the time to learn what your trying to do...

you will have a slow motor in the end that will not make much power and you will be unhappy...

just my 2 cents...
 
and no one answerd me if i can shave the heads to raise compression with these pistons and if not i guess im going to get kb 10 pistons
In addition to the answer given after you posted this;

If you mill the head enuff to get the ratio you want, the next problem you will have is bolt hole alignment for the intake manifold to the head. You'll move the heads threaded holes doward. You'll then need to mill the intake....alot, to match it back up.
Sometimes milling the heads is a good choice, sometimes not. This would be the "Not" time.

DusterBoy15 so instead of shaving you jsut got pistons?
This would be the best and most cost effective way to get the compresson you want while also not only getting a better piston and piston position, but a lighter piston. Though an added cost of balanceing comes in, the new set up will spin faster and easier making more power.

The mentioned KB 107 piston is good.
The pictured piston is a Fed-Mogaul thats coated. Better in that area for the anti scuffing coat is a plus. I think I seen them in Summitt racing sold with rings for something like $250 or so bucks.

DJVCUDA is right I think. I think you should find a group of MoPar guys and find a machinest that knows MoPars with a good soul to teach you the in's and outs. Someone who doesn't mind you in the shop asking 1.1 bazzillion questions.
If you find such a guy willing to show you, this person is worth a billion dollors and alot of rebuilds that you would have otherwise, wasted money and time on. Make sure you thank him when you find him.
 
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