who runs 13sec to 12.80 in the 1/4

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Somebody beat me to it.. Patience is the key. Building take time. You have plenty of it. Make use of it. I got lucky, my first car ('71 Barracuda 318) was runnign decent when I got it. 'course, then I ran it hard, overheated it, and warped the heads. That was just after I swapped on a stock 4bbl intake, and adaptor, a used/abused 3310 750 Holley, painted the valve covers chrome (remember that??), and pulled the glass pack to iunstall a top of the line Sonic Turbo muffler with teh chrome tip. If there was anything one could do wrong, I did it on that car. That was 20 years ago this October...lol. I keep a baggie filled with the remains of the 340 I detonated to death hanging over my work bench as a reminder. Patience... I'm on a bunch of websites. Bar none, this one has the best nurturing atmosphere if you're new to mopars. So sorry if we're coming accross harsh. It's 'cause "we're old" and think we all know better ;).

Edit: I almost forgot, on the 318... I had to make a sheild to fit over the crossover pipe from the driver's side, because the intake swap resulted in one WHALE of an oil leak. Yes, I made a shield out of tin before I replaced "the new gasket.." My family are not into cars. So I had no support...lol
 
Ok here goes:
340 .030 750 Eddy Carb with RPM air gap intake
10.5:1 pistons 509 Mopar purple cam
727 tranny with 3500 stall, B&M shifter with Trans go shift Kit
389 gears with Ford 9" rear
MSD 6A with MSD SS coil
Headman Header with "H" pipes ,2 Chamber Flow Master Mufflers
Pump Gas 93 octane minimum

121 MPH 1/4mile @ 11.38sec :cheers:
 
Adam,
The pistons aren't the only thing to making more power, they just allow the use of larger cams with more overlap to work better. Also with the smaller cam the compression in the cylinders will be higher due to less overlap, this is why I said to go with the dished pistons. So this way he wouldn't have to rebuild it later if he wanted to step up the HP, and also he would have more clearence for a larger cam. The only thing that I could see that he would have to change later is the heads and not go straight to Eddys to start with, as I think that they would be way down the road for him as he's on a limited budget. And also that the engine isn't going to be turned over 5500 anyway, at this point the eddys would be over kill and not much help with the power. Iron heads are his best bet for now, and being that he has the 318 heads I would use them to help him save money for other things that he's going to need.
 
My family are not into cars. So I had no support...lol

Same here. I had no support, family not into cars. I had to learn everything on my own. :munky2:NO internet at the time either. Now, I have an extensive folder with links from vendors, resellers and forums, along with a sh*tload of literature :read2: and growing pain stories. :toothy10:
 
Same here. I had no support, family not into cars. I had to learn everything on my own. :munky2:NO internet at the time either. Now, I have an extensive folder with links from vendors, resellers and forums, along with a sh*tload of literature :read2: and growing pain stories. :toothy10:

I hear you...lol. The thing was tho, you could tell who you should be listening to, by seing a car run well...or not...lol. It's hard to tell via keyboard who can do what. I know some killer guys that can't type, and dont own PCs. And I know some great typists that dont really know how cars work...
 
My son has run a traction limited 12.90 at 112 mph with his 70 swinger. Here is his combo, as far as I can remember.

360 crate motor, 9.5:1 comp. Eddy RPM heads, Air Gap intake, 780DP Holley, Mopar Performance .509 cam, Crane roller rockers, rotating assy is balanced.
Behind this is a 4-speed to a 8 3/4 with 3.55 Suregrip. The car is mini-tubbed with 275-50Rx15 BF Goodrich TA's. Hooker headers to full 2.25" exhaust with Flowmaster mufflers and tailpipes to back bumper. Also running with 93 octane.
 
I hear you...lol. The thing was tho, you could tell who you should be listening to, by seing a car run well...or not...lol. It's hard to tell via keyboard who can do what. I know some killer guys that can't type, and dont own PCs. And I know some great typists that dont really know how cars work...

HAHA! True...true...I was the guy my friends came to for help. I'm glad they drove Chevy's, I had a lot to practice on. LOL!:evil2:
 
The problem that I see is that he's trying to run on pump gas and keep the compression to 9.5:1, this isn't going to be a race engine, but more street and a DD. And the type of fuel that he'll have to use and with the budget of a youngster, the KB107's would be out. If he square decks the engine and uses the thinner gaskets and runs the small chamber heads like the 318's that he has then he should be in the range of 9.5 or better. He's not wanting to turn this engine over 5500 or 6000 rpms. And then only a couple of times a year at a race track, most of his driving will be 4000 rpm's or less most of the time.
He needs to listen to a good machinist that know whats going on with mopars, and his wallet. As it's fine for all of us to say what we would do but were not the one's thats having to spend the money or on his budget. Only he knows this.
I agree that he's young and is learning and we don't want him to make any mistakes, and planning a engine takes time and some changes to work out to achieve the out come that he wants.




i must have missed this but if im not going higher than 5500-6k rpm and not really going to be racing it whats wrong with the 302 heads now dont get me wrong i know they dont flow as good as the magnums and i know i shouldent use them im just trying to get every question i have answered.

stock 302 vs stock magnum yes magnums better but when a 302 is gasket matched to 360 head and worked by a good machineist like BJR why cant it be possilbe for the 302 to flwo as well as the magnum while rasing compression and only spending around 600 on the heads


but im most likely not going to run the 302s because i can just run the stock 360 heads and kb107s and they would out flow the stock 302s with speed pros
 
stock 302 vs stock magnum yes magnums better but when a 302 is gasket matched to 360 head and worked by a good machineist like BJR why cant it be possilbe for the 302 to flwo as well as the magnum while rasing compression and only spending around 600 on the heads


but im most likely not going to run the 302s because i can just run the stock 360 heads and kb107s and they would out flow the stock 302s with speed pros


Ok, a good machinist can make stock things do better. But, when you start from better, it takes less work to get equal performance from two things. In the comparison of 302 to Magnums, the 302s simply cannot flow enough air to equal the magnums unless they are reworked. That directly translates into dollars to pay the good machinist. A gasket matched set of 302s, with a performance 5 angle valve job, and properly sized valves and no other work will come close to a set of magnums in pure factory stock form. Now, do the same work to magnums, and you are now beyond what 302s could get even with greater $$ spent. Using just money.. lets say you dont have either set of heads, and both set found are perfect low milage examples not needing guide or seat work. For the 302s: initial cost ($100), disassemble/clean and mag($100), 5 angle competiton valve job ($350), hand gasket match/blend/cleanup/back cut intake valves($150), mill flat($70), new valve springs and seals, reusing locks and retainers and existing sized valves. 302 total is $770 plus parts and tax. That will give you a reliable set of heads ready to bolt on with the smaller heart shape chamber that should flow similar to a Magnum head in stock form. Now for Magnums: initial cost ($150), disassemble/clean/mag ($100), 5 angle competition valve job ($350), same hand blend/gasket match and back cut($150), mill flat ($70). Same thing, new springs and seals, all else reused. Total $770 plus parts. But, the heads will flow conservatively about 25% more air at the same lifts, and the chamber is better, with less shrouding.
The 302s simply cant be made to flow as well as a similarly prepped set of Magnums, without spending more money to get there. Think about a drag race. The 302s start at the starting line. The Magnums have a 330' jump on them at the light. They end at the same point, but the 302s require more work to reach that same goal. And in case you're curious... I have a set of 302s on a 360 I ran a couple years ago in my Swinger that are ported and gasket matched(by me), better valves, trimmed giudes and spring seats, and all Comp valve train parts that cost me $1200, because they needed guides and seats...lol.
 
I’m not sure if this is what you’re looking for, but my car runs low 13’s on the motor….except my track is @ 5800 feet and the density altitude for those runs is usually around 9000 feet. So, I guess (and I mean GUESS) my car would be in the high 11’s down in your neck of the woods (on the motor).

Anyway, here is my combo:
360 10.7:1 compression, Eddy heads (91 octane friendly)
750dp, Air gap intake
MP 509 cam
Headman Huslter headers 1 ¾ primary tubes
727 manual VB
8 ¾ w/ 4.10
28x11.5 Hoosier QTP
3250 lbs with driver

On the sauce, she runs 11.0’s in the 9000 foot crappy air.:burnout:

my combo is close to yours and i have gone a 12.17... so you may be able to dip into the 11's at a lower track.
 
Moper,
You forgot to add in the cost of the rocker arms and the lifters and pushrods for the magnums.
Also another thing is the velocity that the heads will have will be different and what the engine can use and or need will be different, so what rpm you want to turn and where the engine will be driven at mostly will also be a determining factor as to which heads would be used. Another thing is that if you only have a .480 lift cam and you have peak flow at .550 or .580 from the heads then the smaller heads that peak flow at a lesser lift with a smaller port, and flow similar to the larger port at low lifts will be the better choice. The port velocity will be better and the throttle response will be better along with fuel mileage for the street. This way the smaller valve head would be better than that of the larger valve head. Not saying the 302's but the small valve 360 head.
 
Moper,
You forgot to add in the cost of the rocker arms and the lifters and pushrods for the magnums.

The needed lifter will come with any cam and lifter kit, The stock rocker are cheap from the dealer if you dont get them with the heads or you can use chevy rockers which you can get any place a lot cheaper then shaft mount stuff.

Hes going to need to measure to make sure he gets the right pushrods if he mills heads and block any ways.
He will also need magnum head bolts. $30 from the dealer.

It doesnt really cost any extra to go with the Magnums.
 
besides the fact of looking for the magnums and actually finding a pair to use that arent cracked
 
I have a 76 dart swinger, it weighs 3550 with me in it. I run 13.08@103mph.
360 30 over
308 heads
crower 0.485/0.495 222/234
Kb 190
air gap
3310 750 holley
Msd ignition
904 2600-3200 coan
8 3/4 3.91 gears
 
Before selling my wagon it was an out of the box 360/380 HP crate motor.
750 DP, 1 5/8" street headers, low gear 904, 9 1/2" Dynamic converter, 4.56 gear, S/S springs, 6 cyl. torsion bars. Basically all the bread and butter stuff, nothing fancy. 12.50's-12.60's with a 12.49 @ 106 best.


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1971 340 engine, bored .030" over with stock TRW forged pistons, stock short block overwise, stock 2.02" valve X heads, thin MP head gaskets so engine has 10.5 to 11.0 compression, MP .509" lift, 292 dur Hyd cam, Edelbrock TM5 single plane intake ( made before Torker was introduced), Holley 650 cfm Dbl pumper, hooker headers thru 3" diameter aerochamber mufflers, MP electronic ignition with chrome box

727 TF with 10" TCI 3600 rpm converter and manual valve body

3.91 sure grip 26"X9.0X15 Hoosier slicks, SS springs, MP pinion snubber, CE race shocks on all four corners

12.95 @ 105 MPH in a 3400 car

Bob
 
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