Why 10.7 volt input at ‘71 Duster instrument panel?

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On the Speedo I posted a photo of

The top hat washer is top and bottom and the rubber is between the housing and the top hats.
 
Dana67Dart said:
On the Speedo I posted a photo of

The top hat washer is top and bottom and the rubber is between the housing and the top hats.
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I’m not following what you are telling me here. Are you telling me there should be 2 parts at each screw…. A top hat and a rubber washer?
 
67Dart273 said:
Be careful with the panel out, and be careful not to get down a rose paved crooked path.

Part of what I mean is, you may or may have disturbed a poor connection in moving things around, which may temporarily hide the problem,---or may it worse.

Also you are unhooking the ammeter itself which may be part of the problem (by removing the cluster)

"The usual" circuit for voltage drop is illustrated somewhat in the simplified diagram from MAD electrical concerning the ammeter.

Basically, ANY POINT in the path may cause drop. From the starter relay---fuse link-- through the FIREWALL CONNECTOR (large RED to ammeter)--through the ammeter--to the WELDED SPLICE, the LARGE BLACK to the ignition switch CONNECTOR, through the SWITCH, back out the switch CONNECTOR (now on the dark blue "run" wire, back out the FIREWALL CONNECTOR--and to the ignition system, the alternator field/ VR etc.

So in your case at the cluster, you can eliminate the last section back out into the engine bay, but everything else applies

ALSO REALIZE that EVERYTHING must be connected as normally as possible to test, because CURRENT through the circuit is WHAT DRIVES THE DROP

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I’m re-reading this thread this morning and I discovered the link you provided to the MAD catalogue. Wow - what a great “electrical systems for dummies” that I need to fully review. Thanks!
 
If you have a crock pot or other with a vented glass lid, it has a silicone grommet in the vent hole. That is what aftermarket isolating grommets are shaped like. Imagine a donut with a groove in it outside? Thats best can describe.
 
Ken71Twister said:
I’m re-reading this thread this morning and I discovered the link you provided to the MAD catalogue. Wow - what a great “electrical systems for dummies” that I need to fully review. Thanks!
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Bear in mind not everyone cares for how the bypass is done there, if you decide that. Most of us have come to the conclusion that you either eliminate or repair the terminals through the bulkead, then add a large fused/ breaker protected wire direct from alternator to battery, leaving the original in place. Then use a voltmeter

There's an old thread on here on building a voltmeter into the old ammeter cavity

It may be that the voltmeter suggested for use in here is no longer available

www.forabodiesonly.com

Ammeter to Voltmeter...who does it?

Im interested in converting my stock ammeter to a voltmeter and was wondering which companies can do this, and approx how much they charged? I did a search and saw that redline does it for about 140, but I'm trying to see if anyone has any experience with other vendors? I thought about...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
 
The Sunpro CP8215 volts gauge is still available at Amazon... Amazon product ASIN B000FJU8I0 The installation varies from one panel to another. It's not exactly easy in any. I've put several in the a-body rally panel, reusing OEM screen and needle but most owners don't bother with the needle swap. The Sunpro is a bit fragile once removed from its can.
There was one member who killed 2 or 3 of them.
I had custom screen decals produced that have to volt scale included on OEM amp gauge screen. The one decal makes that one gauge look newer than others in the pod.
 
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Thanks Red. The reason the Sunpro is specified is that the original thread details "fit," the gauge is fairly compact, and also, that it has an internal pot so you can calibrate it. Many of us adjust it so that 14V is right at the center on the old ammeter scale, IE you are driving and normal, charged, alternator running correct voltage, the need is then centered, just like an ammeter would be
 
I just posted this question in the transmission forum - but thought I’d ask here since I’ve already engaged you guys on my speedo issue. I purchased a 34 tooth speedo gear which will replace an

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incorrect 40 tooth speedo gear. When I pulled the speedo gear off I found a good orange seal plus what looks like disintegrating black sealant around the outer shoulder. I installed the orange gear in about 1987 and do not recall the story on the black stuff. Does the speedo gear holder require an outer seal or is the orange seal all that is needed?

FYI - I ran the speedo with a drill from below the car and the speedo is not clicking. There was no apparent damage to the orange gear.
 
Just to let you know…. I took a test drive yesterday and everything works on the instrument panel….all gauges, lights, turn signals, and speedometer. I don’t recall if I said it earlier but I resorted to replacing the voltage limiter with an external 5V power supply. All is good for now - thanks again for your help.

I still need to replace some wires under the hood that are spliced in multiple places due to rodent damage that happened many years ago - but everything works in spite of the wire-nut splices.
 
Ken71Twister said:
Just to let you know…. I took a test drive yesterday and everything works on the instrument panel….all gauges, lights, turn signals, and speedometer. I don’t recall if I said it earlier but I resorted to replacing the voltage limiter with an external 5V power supply. All is good for now - thanks again for your help.

I still need to replace some wires under the hood that are spliced in multiple places due to rodent damage that happened many years ago - but everything works in spite of the wire-nut splices.
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Household twist on wire nuts need to go A.S.A.P. They are acceptable in a home where there is little to no vibration. In a vehicle they will turn off the twisted wire and roll around in the floor. Even the scotch lock connectors would be better.
 
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