Why a new crush sleeve?

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daredevil

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If you are only pulling the yoke to replace the seal and you retorque the yoke the same as it was when you pulled it why do you need to change the crush sleeve. Seems you would be changing nothing so identical torque would just snug it back to the original crush. What am I missing here. I did it before and had no problems.Was I just lucky?
 
I used to know a guy who CLAIMED it "worked just fine" to put the sleeve on a shaft, pound around and around the side to "lengthen" it back out, and re- use it.

Doo--nooo............
 
Ditch that One and order yourself a solid one and then no more worries!
 
I always just retorque, but make sure not to crush the sleeve any further. As long as the pinion depth and back lash look alright.
 
If you are only pulling the yoke to replace the seal and you retorque the yoke the same as it was when you pulled it why do you need to change the crush sleeve. Seems you would be changing nothing so identical torque would just snug it back to the original crush. What am I missing here. I did it before and had no problems.Was I just lucky?


1st thing what rear do you have? If it is a Dana 60 they do not use a crush sleeve.
 
It is easy to over cruch them....plus I have had a pinion snap clean off BEFORE I got one crushed. really PISSED me OFF..
 
If you re-use the old crush sleeve it will be compressed to much & you will end up with too much pinion bearing preload and wear out the bearing. Do it right!
 
X3 on the solid sleeve, once you crush a crush sleeve and loosen the pinion nut you will have changed the bearing preload. A solid sleeve uses shims to set the preload, so you can loosen the pinion nut and re tighten and still get back to the original preload. Not having enough bearing preload is what causes diff failures.
 
If you are only pulling the yoke to replace the seal and you retorque the yoke the same as it was when you pulled it why do you need to change the crush sleeve. Seems you would be changing nothing so identical torque would just snug it back to the original crush. What am I missing here. I did it before and had no problems.Was I just lucky?
That's the way I've always done it and haven't had any problems either. You just have to take all the measurements accurately and verify the preload is exactly the same on the reinstall. Now if this is going on a race car, I'd take it apart and retrofit it with the solid spacer as those crush sleeves will collapse under drag race conditions. I've never had a problem on a street car though.
 
I wish I knew how many 489 yokes I have removed and replaced the seal over the years. In the early 70's i worked at a shop that had the contract to repair ALL Hillsborough County Sheriff cars. They all had 489 8 3/4. Use thread locker and or a lock nut and replace the damn seal. This the most over thought part of a Mopar that I can think of. It's not that big of deal! You don't have to agree with me, but this my results after many years of real life R & D.
 
I wish I knew how many 489 yokes I have removed and replaced the seal over the years. In the early 70's i worked at a shop that had the contract to repair ALL Hillsborough County Sheriff cars. They all had 489 8 3/4. Use thread locker and or a lock nut and replace the damn seal. This the most over thought part of a Mopar that I can think of. It's not that big of deal! You don't have to agree with me, but this my results after many years of real life R & D.
I totally agree. When I do them, I use either a center punch or paint stick to mark the nut, flange, and shaft so they go back to the exact same spot along with some locktite. Now if you're changing the flange, I would get a new crush sleeve or install the fixed spacer but changing just the seal is a piece of cake.
 
knock on wood,when I installed that seal I reused the old crush sleave no problimssss yet,like said knock on wood.
 
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