Why do I have such sloppy steering?

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myasylum

myasylum

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I do have power steering, is that just the way these cars were back then?
It's like driving a four wheel drive monster truck, you have to move the steering wheel around to keep it on the road.
My friend that has a Ford said that he just simple has a screw on the power steering pump that tightens the steering. Do we have anything that that?
What might cause this??

Thanks!
 
worn out steering parts like joints,bushings, stuff like that in the front end can be making sloppy steering.
 
Look on top of your steering box, there should be a lock nut with an allen head bolt in the middle. loosen the lock nut and adjust the allen head bolt a 1/4 turn at a time and check the wheel for any slop. I usualy do this when I do any other front end work (tie rods) and then go get the front end re alighned.
 
Have you ever replaced any of the front suspension parts? They don't last forever.

Some of the play can be adjusted out of the steering box (not the power steering pump), but if your front parts are pushing 35+ years old a simple adjustment will probably not fix anything.
 
How much do you think it cost to have the front end redone?

Could someone guide me to what parts I need, and where to get them?
 
A kit from PST is around $350, I change about $300 labor to install the kit, then it needs an alignment. If you took it to a shop to have it done you would probably be around $1000 including the parts.
 
myasylum said:
How much do you think it cost to have the front end redone?
Click to expand...

Depends on what needs to be replaced. For example.... My car has low miles and has been stores inside for 40 years. I inspected everything and had a professional inspection done.... In the end I replaced 1 lower ball joint and I think it was about $30 + an alignment.
 
Start with checking the coupler between the steering box and column for play.
 
myasylum said:
is it possible that's just simply bad shocks could cause this?
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no

Take the car to a tire shop or local mechanic and have a front end inspection done. Many will do it for free (watch if you can it will teach you what to look for).

Some things are easy to replace yourself. A full rebuild is always nice but nothing is really wrong with simply replacing the parts that are bad when you are on a budget.
 
35+ years of turning and bouncing around on rubber bushings and joints wears them slap out after awhile. it will drive better than new after you go through the front end.
 
The steering on my Valiant became really sloppy one day. Upon inspecting everything I found the steering box was actually loose. :-? The 3 bolts had backed out. Tightened them back up and all was normal again.

I thought that was pretty strange actually. I've never had a car do that to me before.
 
It may just be that you need to replace the steering box itself. Mine is sloppy on my 69 Dart and I got a tight one at a swap meet, have yet to install it... but I have it and it's tight. Yes, there is an adjustment as mentioned, but they don't last forever and getting sloppy is a sign that the box itself may be going bad. But take it to a reputable shop and let them check it out for you. YOu're not obligated to have the work done and a good shop will itemize what needs to be done for free or a small reasonable fee.
 
I went with the PST polygraphite when I rebuilt the front-end of my '67 Barracuda and loved it. People said it would squeak, but I never heard a thing. It was less than $300 if I recall correctly. After that was installed, THEN tightening the steering box actually made a difference.
 
Sloppy would be an understatement for my 70 Dart...I'm not a gearhead but enjoy working on her...the steering box adjust will work but mine was at the end of its adjust so I had a brake & alighnment shop do a complete rebuild-everything, it was over $1k but worth every penny....hands off the wheel & she tracks straight down the fwy @ 70.
 
I replaced my 43 year old parts and it made a big difference but I still have some slop and a clunk noise in the center of the slop. I am guessing the steering coupler needs rebuilt. I found a kit on e-Bay and will get it installed after the Nationals. I will also adjust the gear as needed. Can you have someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you look at the column and coupler. If the column moves before the coupler does there could be your problem. toolmanmike
 
As long as your not up here in BC Canada, Ive got the disc brakes coming but ive tightend my steering box a cupple of times, and now I just want to get a new one but cant find any dealers that supply the steering boxs for 69 barracudas. any one know a good place to buy one.
 
get a good poly front end kit , and a firm feel box from http://www.firmfeel.com/powerst.htm. They have several stages to choose from, I loved the stage 3 . and you will swear your driving a modern day performance car. you will think someone snuck into the garage and slipped you a rack In pinion system when you wern't looking. If you do adjust the allen bolt on the steering box just be carefull to only turn it alittle at a time. make several adjustments not just one big one. also check the coupler that joins the box to the steering shaft they have 2 shims and a clip and can get sloppy too. The cheapest fix is to go to a manual box and buy the adapter for the steering coupler. the manuals are far less "wandery" for lack of a better word. and these cars are not that heavy up front ,so the average guy should have no big effort to turn in tight quarters . I gotta say though, I like the firm feel box stage 2or3 and a poly graphite kit with a good sway bar front and rear. You wont be sorry.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
no

Take the car to a tire shop or local mechanic and have a front end inspection done. Many will do it for free (watch if you can it will teach you what to look for).

Some things are easy to replace yourself. A full rebuild is always nice but nothing is really wrong with simply replacing the parts that are bad when you are on a budget.
Click to expand...


I agree. Put the front of the car on jackstands and find out what's bad. Look and inspect the bushings. Grab the sides wheel and move them back and forth while watching the tie rods, pitman, and idler arm. Then grab the top and bottom of wheel and move and see or feel if you have movement. Grab each ends of the tie rod and feel/look for movement. Same for both end of the centerlink to check pitman and idler.

Typically the driver side lower control arm bushing gets wiped out from leaking power steering fluid and idler arm wears.
 
All good advice, but I feel obligated to include a safety heads-up.....


When adjusting your steering box make sure the steering wheel returns to center after making a turn! I've seen guys over-adjust the steering box and go for a road test and after making a turn, the steering wheel would NOT return to straight! One friend almost railed a parked car. Your adjusting the free-play when the steering gear is on-center, or in the straight-ahead position. This is where it will wear, and adjusting the gear so it's nice and tight on-center almost guarantees a binding gear at a full turn if the box is worn. Beware!

As for a wandering Mopar, these things tracked like shopping carts when new, especially with power steering. Mopar was known for having THE most over-assisted power steering on the planet, aside from an earth mover. You are constantly sawing at the wheel. But if something IS worn, start with your wheel bearing adjustment and work your way in. If you have the front wheels off the ground (and the car is safely supported....) grab the sides of the tires and wiggle back and forth as if you were trying to steer it. If it feels loose, inspect the tie rod ends and arms. Then grab the tire from the top & bottom and push in & out. If you feel looseness, possibly a ball joint. If all this feels tigh (I still recommend a pro inspect it if your not sure....) I'd suspect the lower control arm bushings, which are a pain in the *** to replace and are rarely serviced. Start with those wheel bearings. That's a simple inspection and if bad or loose will produce the problems you mentioned. If your not sure, or inexperienced in front end work, seek some help/advice from someone whom has done this work before. Suspension-steering, and brakes, are the most important repairs that you can perform. If your not sure of what your doing, get help.

Oh...one more thing. You do have a set of matched tires on the front end the same size and in good condition, right? A bad tire will cause a pull too...
 
1.) have a master front-end machanic look your car over. If you haven't done much front end work, your guessing that everything is "O.K".

I changed my power steering fluid and had a more solid response.
It may have just been "topped off" from day one & never changed. Wheel bearings, tires, power steering pump worn out, steering box has excessive wear, beyond tolerances.
May your trouble shooting be successful,
Kruzz
 
I agree with most here. If the shocks are suspect, then by all means change them out. There is a little bump steer that is worth bringing under control. It's an afternoon job, doesn't require an alignment, and will put you under the car where you can check the wear on everything else.

I'd start with replacing the bushings, then the ball joints. After either of these, have the front end aligned by someone who is familiar with TB Mopars.

The steering box may be worn out. Replacing with a FirmFeel unit will transform things.

I am hesitant to change the friction in the box, because I like to release the wheel and have the car start going straight. If steering effort is too light, go to a smaller diameter steering wheel. The factory Tuff wheel was 13½" in diameter and required power steering. I think the Grant repro is 15". Good luck.
 
The idler arm is always an issue with bump steer.

1st get a new one.

2nd
Look at the idler arm while someone turns the wheels back and forth, also check see if the idler is at the same angle up/down as the pitman.
If the idler is not angled identical to the pitman and most aren't, you elongate the idler bolt holes, put thick steel washers over the holes, insert the bolt and snugged so that the idler can be positioned at the right angle marked and or washers welded.
After that a toe set at the least needs to be done.

Well thats what I would do at least.jmo
 
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