My dad is babysitting my Scamp since I’m out of the US. Just heard my 10 year old American chrome box failed. Why are these ignition boxes prone to failure? I’ve had two orange boxes and a chrome box fail since 2004. 2/3 of them were American made. I think I may hollow out a box and do the hidden HEI trick finally. But still curious, what is it about them that cause failure?
Why do the ignition boxes fail?
- Thread starter jrc4y4
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Poor grounds, poor connections, moisture.
He’s definitely the guru around here on ignition. If I ever replace my distributor he’s the one I’ll be talking to.
I mean I use dielectric grease in several spots and feel all my grounds are good. It’s always in storage and out of elements. Though it’s Midwest humidity and not climate controlled.
I am having a voltage regulator issue. I think it is because the parts are cheap, and the products aren't built to last anymore.
From the looks of engine bay it looks pretty clean. Not sure exactly what it could be.
Have you got a dedicated ground for ECU and VR? Both of those need a really good ground.
Have you got a dedicated ground for ECU and VR? Both of those need a really good ground.
Have you reached out to MadScientistMat? He is making his owns VR.
I saw that, thanks. I have been reading all the threads, and there seems to be quite a few recently on voltage and VR issues.
Yeah, I'm struggling with a Voltage drop issue as well. Frustrating as fruck....
Good luck.
Good luck.
I saw that, you as well. I think my issue started when I was removing everything to check and adjust lash. I think the plug got pushed around and the pins got messed up.
Shitty, I freely admit I'm elec challenged, and would be lost without the knowledgable elec gurus here willing to share.
New stuff is definately not what it used to be. Like Steve posted a good ground is a must. Mis matched parts are another big one. Here is a link on ECU fails a bit long but has more than you will ever want to know.
Best friend for grounds. Bonding brush
1974 Brain Box saves the day.
Was heading out to a local car gathering a couple weeks ago, and a no start on my '76 Truck. Turns out the 1 year old replacement brain box failed. I had a well used 1974 5 pin brain box from my '74 Dart that I had replaced because all the goo on the back had melted out from the hot sun in...
www.forabodiesonly.com
Best friend for grounds. Bonding brush
I had an issue with control boxes. Mine was the blue wire going to the voltage regulator was compromised in the harness at the solder joint where all the blue wires are connected under the tape near the bulk head. This cause over charge spike but not consistent. So unless your watching the Amp. gauge you may miss the spike. Bad ground on the regulator will also cause this. Or Dirty blue wire connection at the bulk head.
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I would be interested in trying an autopsy if anyone wants to send me a dead ignition module. My guess is that the original power transistor is no longer made and they've either grabbed a different part that didn't quite meet a key specification, or resorted to chip brokers who buy up obsolete parts but sometimes grab batches that haven't been stored properly (or worse).
Hoppy has taken quite a few ECU's apart and they don't look anything like the old originals do. I bought mine from Hoppy. NOS Filko, with a RCA transistor. The good ones had RCA or Motorola transistors. 50 year old wiring with worn out sheet metal screws for grounds, loose connectors or a restored car with 3 or 4 layer paint (and poor grounds) all kill electronics. BTW, Hoppy tests every ECU before he sells them.
Here's a good example. Look at the sensing wire to my alternator. Good thing the sensing wire is just voltage and doesn't carry much amperage.
Here's a good example. Look at the sensing wire to my alternator. Good thing the sensing wire is just voltage and doesn't carry much amperage.
A56
Street Survivor
I still wonder why they aren't built similar to this style. Have one on my Harley that's 20 years old. Makes too much sense since heat also kills these.
I’ll ask my dad since he’s at the car.
So I read the thread. Good amount over my head lol but basically issues of real vs fake resisters, grounding, and heat issues. Also looked at your shared info on matching the ignition parts together.
So if I’m reading this correctly, mismatching the coil, ballast resistor, and the box will increase heat and cause quicker failure?
When my coil went bad, I bought a coil from rev n nator. When I talked to the lady (forget her name, years ago), she asked if I wanted a “matched” ballast resistor. I bought one, figuring it was cheap enough and might help.
So I have a revnnator coil, a resistor for that, and then a chrome box American made. But it’s probably not all equal components and that’s why it failed this time? Sorry for my ignorance. I’m legit trying to understand.
They fail for the same reasons all electrical stuff has ever failed. Moisture, heat, bad grounds. It's just that they have a higher failure rate now because since they aren't made with as good a stuff as they used to be, those failures happen sooner. And I've seen some of those fancy high priced ECUs fail too. I won't mention names, but they have snappy fancy names and cost a LOT. There have been several members that have had them fail. So far, I've had good luck with the Hi Rev 7500. I think even hoppy said he kinda likes those now. @Newbomb Turk has one of mine that he's tested and he says it's a pretty good unit.
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I'm not saying this is the issue, but coils have different ratings, ballast resistors too. Even tho they could be good parts, there is a potential of a mismatch. Makes it a ***** to try and diagnose. For me anyway.
From experience it seems that poor quality components are the main offenders (other than bad grounds). Moisture doesn't seem to be an issue since the components are completely sealed.
Deltatech
Well-Known Member
Profit margins. Cost cutting to appease investors.
I don't know how many others have noticed but "counterfeit" brand name parts have also become increasingly rampant since the 90's.
I don't know how many others have noticed but "counterfeit" brand name parts have also become increasingly rampant since the 90's.
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That's a good point and one I've touched on.....and naturally been disagreed with. But I've never thought the MP manual was right about the ballast resistor ratings they give. Mainly because, as we all know, the resistance those resistors give goes down as they heat up, so a .5 ohm for example might give .2 or even .1 when it's hot. That's why I prefer a 1.5 or 1.7 ohm resistor for the ignition. People argue and say "but you're dropping spark energy". Am I? Funny. It still runs.
Ok so the Hi Rev I see on Jegs looks like it's got the fake transistor, no? I'm open to ideas, just doesn't look like a good USA piece and potentially susceptible to same QC issues previously discussed.
So in running a lower resistant ballast resistor, you potentially get a hotter spark but then less life of the electronic components is what I am seeing. But then you have to ask how much less spark and is it even worth .1 in the 1/4? If not, I'd say a running car is better than .1 lol.
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