So I heard back from the RT garage on what coil and ballast resistor they were selling. Their recommendation for the revnnator for resistance on coil was 1.5 ohm and ballast 1.0. So I’m guessing that means that’s what they were selling at the time. Based on that, I should be good with the Hi Rev.
Why do the ignition boxes fail?
- Thread starter jrc4y4
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Are they selling the Rev-N-Nator units again?
If that's the case, when you buy an MSD ignition, a hot blonde should come with it, install it for you, give you a happy ending and then LEAVE.
There you go..
The killer of so many electronics, over voltage, power spikes & inconsistent supply. Would probably fry any sort of ignition module.A 17VDC coil supply would spike the secondary/H.T voltage up pretty high. The reflected ‘fly back’ after a spark event would be pretty high as well.
So from the sound of it, ignition boxes fail most from stupidity.
No. I had mentioned I heard they would again but they didn’t say anything in their response.
So I’m looking at Mancini. They have an orange box, a black box, and then this Mopar Performance orange one. So the MP is not the same as the stock orange box?
Mopar Performance - Electronic Control Unit
Nope Authorised for mopar. Also that is a cover not a transistor. You will be hard pressed to find a old orange NOS box under 200 now.
I just went through this with VRs. I like Mancinci and have ordered from them many times. However, check reviews on these. Most are not Mopar; they are not even printed on, just stickers. They are the same junk ones people are having issues with. I suggest you contact Hoppy @halifaxhops and get one from him. He has NOS or ones he tests and will stand behind what he sells. It says on Mancinci returns, no returns on electronics.
I was typing at the same time and telling him to get it from you.....................
Thanks I am out of them they go fast
Thanks anyway! Sometimes timing is just off. I’ll stick with the Hi Rev then. Thanks for all the info guys
Does that cost extra?
Hot blondes will always cost you extra!
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
I agree, always check for a good ground before looking deeper. This also goes for our new cars with computers. Most issues are due to faulty grounds.
I’d be interested in knowing what percentage of boxes you receive are functional.. lol
Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
I think you have the washer at the wrong location. Should be touching the body for a good ground. If you were looking for a lock washer, it is different.
I'm late to the game so sorry if this was already mentioned...
but typically in aftermarket these "transistors" (yellow) are fake
And the "heatsink" (green) may or may not be functional
Someone posted shots of the insides of one of these once.
but typically in aftermarket these "transistors" (yellow) are fake
And the "heatsink" (green) may or may not be functional
Someone posted shots of the insides of one of these once.
A quality ECU will have a transistor that will look something like this. This one happens to be a Filko brand and has a RCA transistor. The old Mopar boxes used RCA, Motorola, and later I have seen STI transistors.
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That size transistor is called a TO-3. I checked with the usual electronics component sources for TO-3 sized transistors, whether they're suitable for an ignition module or not. (As others have noted, there's a lot of power supply or audio amplifier transistors that won't fit the voltage demands even if they're in a big, well cooled case.) I came up with a few that were priced at $10, obsolete, and when they're gone, they're gone. And some others that were priced at $50 each. As for the original manufacturers: RCA was sold to General Electric, who used to make transistors but dropped that side of the business before they bought RCA. Motorola's semiconductor line spun off as Freescale and was acquired by NXP, who continues many of their chips but hasn't been making individual transistors.
If you want to make a module that looks like the originals, and sell it at a reasonable price, you can either dredge up obsolete parts from dead inventory that was sitting in somebody's warehouse that they no longer needed, or throw a fake cosmetic transistor on there.
There are a lot of more contemporary transistor designs out there that make less heat and shed it quite well, but they call for their own approach to heat sinking. Bolting something like a TO-220 or TO-247 to the back of that heat sink from inside the case would get you something close to the original look; you may even be able to use one of the bolts that holds the TO-3 in place. Or you could ditch the stock appearance, design the circuit around something that would properly drive a modern IGBT or similar transistor, and design the mechanical bits based on what heat sinking your new circuit needs.
If you want to make a module that looks like the originals, and sell it at a reasonable price, you can either dredge up obsolete parts from dead inventory that was sitting in somebody's warehouse that they no longer needed, or throw a fake cosmetic transistor on there.
There are a lot of more contemporary transistor designs out there that make less heat and shed it quite well, but they call for their own approach to heat sinking. Bolting something like a TO-220 or TO-247 to the back of that heat sink from inside the case would get you something close to the original look; you may even be able to use one of the bolts that holds the TO-3 in place. Or you could ditch the stock appearance, design the circuit around something that would properly drive a modern IGBT or similar transistor, and design the mechanical bits based on what heat sinking your new circuit needs.
I’d be surprised if grounding were an issue. The paint around the mounting holes was scraped off good.
Who knows though.
I agree, A star lock washer will cut through paint
Mr. Sinister
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This right here Steve and his son do all of their own work and are a talented family.
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