Wideband UEGO Air/Fuel Sensor

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Same thing I always say.
Tune for best performance.
In other words don't worry about the AFR number, much less aim for any AFR number.
Use the AFR to see the effect of changes to carb restrictions under various conditions.
How to read carb calibration chart?

A wideband is not needed
Setup for 750DP on this 408
If you have limited funds, they might be better spent at the drag strip or on a dyno since those actually measure performance. That was my point here.
100 cfm more with anular and downleg boosters can't beat AFR

To track the AFR relationships under various low throttle and part throttle situations, MAP and TPS are useful in addition to RPM.
AFR gauge with o2 sensor worth it or not?
 
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I bought the one listed above for My 440 / 500 Stroker. I never set up a Holley before and it helped greatly as mentioned to see which direction I was taking things. It has since stopped working . If it was still alive I would have welded a bung and used it for tuning on my 340 Ragtop. Too much money for the short time I got out of it.
I still suspect a vacuum leak on my 340 since rebuild as it runs lean and I have to run half choked until really warmed up. I am soon the add a Air gap intake and then final tune carb. I have an AVS (originally on motor) and a Eddy 625 ABS (currently on motor) Thought carb needed rebuilding from sitting but ran the same so I rebuilt the Eddy and got the same results.
 
Mattax said:
If you have limited funds, they might be better spent at the drag strip or on a dyno since those actually measure performance.
Click to expand...

Sorry I disagree. Wideband has helped me in numerous ways, and 'around here' a dyno (and a track as well) is rare and expensive. By the time I drove or trailered to Spokane round trip and spent money on a dyno run, all that more than paid for the cost of a wideband. I realize they have limitations and are not "lab quality" so to say

In my opinion the current crop of affordable O2 meters are one of the best things to help guys who are "alone" in the hobby with limited test equipment

Another great tool is my old G-tech or some other onboard performance device. G meter is very helpful
 
Kendog 170 said:
What are you guys using for affordable
Wideband UEGO Air/Fuel Sensor
just for tuning purposes
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Ino%201-500x500.jpg
 
great for setting up a used carb (as well as old narrow band DIY EFI) as noted. Stay away from silicone and leaded gas! Getting a stinky carb to idle cleanly is almost worth the cost, and setting up air bleeds its almost a must. New carbs OOTB are very close today but all engines are different.
 
Kendog 170 said:
I bought the one listed above for My 440 / 500 Stroker. I never set up a Holley before and it helped greatly as mentioned to see which direction I was taking things. It has since stopped working . If it was still alive I would have welded a bung and used it for tuning on my 340 Ragtop. Too much money for the short time I got out of it.
I still suspect a vacuum leak on my 340 since rebuild as it runs lean and I have to run half choked until really warmed up. I am soon the add a Air gap intake and then final tune carb. I have an AVS (originally on motor) and a Eddy 625 ABS (currently on motor) Thought carb needed rebuilding from sitting but ran the same so I rebuilt the Eddy and got the same results.
Click to expand...
I see. Definately good to track effect of changes.
No way to pinpoint what failed?

I think the current Innovate products also use the LSU4.9 sensor. Pretty sure that's what came with my new LM2. The connector in the phot shure looks the same.
Also pretty sure one advantage of the Innovate gages is that they can be also used for logging.
So there's a couple things to check into.
For a while Innovate had a "pocket logger" but they may have dropped it.
Not sure if Innovate's stuff is quite as affordable but their LM1, auxbox and LM2 are what I've been using.
 
Mattax said:
No way to pinpoint what failed?
Click to expand...
I tried a few tests for vacuum leak but could not find one. My gut still tells me it is. Car ran good before rebuild with the AVS. Kept most everything the same but 20 KB pistons and Eddy heads. Compression is all about 160 +or- 3 psi.
 
Kendog 170 said:
I tried a few tests for vacuum leak but could not find one. My gut still tells me it is. Car ran good before rebuild with the AVS. Kept most everything the same but 20 KB pistons and Eddy heads. Compression is all about 160 +or- 3 psi.
Click to expand...
Does the gage read anything in free air?
The sensor can handle it. Whether the gage will show it I don't know.
That's how Innovate has the user check calibration on periodic basis.

Now that I typed that, I realize that at least with the LM1 & 2, the free air check shows percent oxygen - not AFR.
upload_2020-6-11_15-12-14.png


Maybe @TrailBeast can explain how its done with the gages.
 
67Dart273 said:
Sorry I disagree. Wideband has helped me in numerous ways, and 'around here' a dyno (and a track as well) is rare and expensive. By the time I drove or trailered to Spokane round trip and spent money on a dyno run, all that more than paid for the cost of a wideband. I realize they have limitations and are not "lab quality" so to say

In my opinion the current crop of affordable O2 meters are one of the best things to help guys who are "alone" in the hobby with limited test equipment

Another great tool is my old G-tech or some other onboard performance device. G meter is very helpful
Click to expand...
Absolutely 100% agree. And if you’re running a modern efi your o2 sensors better be damn accurate and you had better trust them because the ecu is.
https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/wideband-uego-air-fuel-controllers
These are what I use and they are inexpensive (relatively speaking) and have never had one fail. The one on my daily driver has over 400,000 miles on the o2 sensor. Still works great
 
Mattax said:
Does the gage read anything in free air?
The sensor can handle it. Whether the gage will show it I don't know.
That's how Innovate has the user check calibration on periodic basis.

Now that I typed that, I realize that at least with the LM1 & 2, the free air check shows percent oxygen - not AFR.
View attachment 1715544377

Maybe @TrailBeast can explain how its done with the gages.
Click to expand...

You pretty much got it nailed, but I would add a couple of things.
The Innovate gauge has error code readouts and has saved me from a tow bill before.
I was about 100 miles from home when the engine hiccuped and the AF ratio went way lean.
I had a semi expensive carter rotary vane fuel pump at the time.
The next parts store I ran across had a new pump in stock, so I picked it up just in case.
On the way home the Carter pump gave up, but I already had a replacement with me.
The gauge told me my hiccup was a loss of fuel.

Another one was when I was driving along and the AF gauge started flashing E9.
E9 is a low voltage warning and I checked the volt gauge and it was low.
Popped the hood and found the field wire for the alternator was off.
(saved me again before it was too late)

And yes, the gauge has data logging and it was also priceless for setting up the air bleeds on my Holley 770.
Fresh air calibrations do need to be done, and I have been running this gauge in my car permanently installed for 5-6 years of daily driving without any issues.
 
Mine is an AEM . Car running or off reads out 14.9 (If remmembering correctly) or somewhere near there and doesn't change.
 
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