Will not start with out staring fluid

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19Valiant69

19Valiant69

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/6 225 with a Holley 1920, Will not start with out starting fluid. Once running no issues except for the fuel consumption has gone up. Installed a new fuel pump thinking that was the issue, did change the fuel consumption slightly, but still bothered by the starting fluid thing.

Any help would be great?
 
After it has been running will it start back up without the assist? How long does it sit before you have to give it a shot of starting fluid, overnight maybe?
C
 
After running the car you can start it right back up, but if it sits for two or more hours you need to give it another shot to get her going.
 
accelerator pump or bad filter? i would rebuild the carb, will it start if you pump the living crap out of it first?
 
I'll bet it's a bad coil, or the wiring for the hot start provision that bypasses the ballast resistor has been altered.
Really old gas will do this as well as bad spark plugs.
I suggest you get a FSM to help you out further.
 
Pumping the crap out of it does nothing to start the car. The coil and ballast resitor is less than a year old and I run the car every day. I planned on yanking the plugs and seeing if they are foul. The carb will be replaced when i can get one ordered.

Just wanted a few more ideas on the subject to see if I was missing some thing completely.
 
in the morning, or after it has been sitting, before you do anything, take off the air cleaner and look down at the squirters, and work the throttle, and see if you are immediately getting gas squirting out. this will rule out a number of things
 
19Valiant69 said:
coil and ballast resitor is less than a year old.
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WHAT YEAR/ MODEL, and POINTS OR ELECTRONIC ignition??

They might be ONE DAY old and still have a problem

In addition to the suggestion about looking for the acellerator pump shot, check your spark quality.

Get a helper to crank the car WITH THE KEY, NOT jumpering the relay. (This operates the resistor bypass circuit.)

Remove the coil wire from the coil, and "rig" a probe. You can use a clip lead and a screwdriver, or your 12V test lamp.

Ground the clip, and hold the probe up at the top of the coil tower. Have your helper crank the engine, and look for a nice, fat, blue spark.

If not, you have issues, wiring, coil, resistor, or the bypass circuit is AFU. Your suspects are the bulkhead connector, connector at the IGN switch, the switch itself, or the coil.

If you have points ignition, could be bad points or condenser.

Could be low voltage to the IGN system. Use your meter, at the coil + terminal. With your helper cranking the engine WITH THE KEY, measure the voltage, should be very close to "same as battery" and in no case less than 10.5V

IF the spark at the coil tower looks OK, move on, pull and inspect the plugs. Use your ohmeter to check the COIL wire as well as the plug wires. The "old" rule of thumb used to be 1000 ohms per every foot of wire, but in practice, they are usually lower.

Inspect the cap and rotor, condensation, oil, junk, dirt, carbon tracking, etc. take a CAREFUL look at the rotor AND the UNDERSIDE of the rotor.

Problems such as this are almost always the result of:

Poor engine condition, low compression, burns oil, worn cam, timing chain, etc

Poor engine tune, ignition, carb

Poor / stale gas or contaminated gas
 
The starting fluid pretty much rules out anything electrical. It's possible that the choke is not working but then it would start after 2 hours simply by holding th gas pedal 1/2 way down. I suspect a "leakdown" problem letting the float bowl empty out.

Forget all that testing on the ignition side of things and concentrate on the fuel system.

I would put in a clear fuel filter so you can see that there's fuel staying up in the lines. Then find the screw plug that lets you inspect the Float level.

Or just do what I did and replace the Carburetor, Hoses and Filter and be done with it.
 
I'm for the choke, no response to that question. Still may need choke after 2hrs could just be cold blooded.
 
my money is on no fuel coming out the squirters because of fuel bleeding back into the system and having to prime the carb because the fuel bowl is empty and the accelerator/pump shot is wore out
 
I'm with 73AbodEE on this my old daily driver is a 77 gp and the ethynol in the fuel has ruined the accelerator pump seal in the carb , if the car sits for more than 36 hours it needs a splash of gas in the carb to start which then refills the fuel system , Will your car start with a splash of gas or doe's it have to be ether {starter fluid } ?
 
73AbodEE said:
my money is on no fuel coming out the squirters because of fuel bleeding back into the system and having to prime the carb because the fuel bowl is empty and the accelerator/pump shot is wore out
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x2 and most part store rebuilt carbs are not worth bolting on.
Rebuild your original, alot cheaper and 95% of the time it will run better than a parts store mis-match rebuild.
 
Havent had a chance to get outside and check yet. But I will start with the "squirters" and check the accelerator pump and bowl gasket from there.

Filter was replaced only a month ago and its the visible fram model.
 
19Valiant69 said:
Havent had a chance to get outside and check yet. But I will start with the "squirters" and check the accelerator pump and bowl gasket from there.

Filter was replaced only a month ago and its the visible fram model.
Click to expand...

is there visible gas in the filter???
 
OwdKasd said:
I agree with you that there's a chance but I Would 100% start on the fuel side of things.
Click to expand...
X2. A spark problem is highly unlikely but possible. If you pull the coil wire off the cap and crank the engine, Do you get a good blue spark that will jump a 1/2" gap? If so, you can forget about a spark problem unless your wires have gobs of resistance in them. If the plugs were bad, you'd get a miss. I would bet on the accelerator pump, choke, fuel percolation/drainback, or a combination of the three.
 
There is gas but not enough to actually get anywhere near the carb inlet. So no Squirts from the jets.
 
i went through two fuel pumps before i got one that wouldnt bleed back through it. the one i have now will not let fuel bleed back and my filter is always full of fuel even after 3-5 days of sitting. these reman fuel pumps are hit and miss. IMO ...this is your problem and/or the accelerator pump is old .if i remember, some of those 2 barrel holleys have a micro filter in the carb inlet that may be dirty. just some thoughts and things to check
 
Thanks for all the help guys. Finally after way to long and three cans of starting fluid finally had a chance to go at the car.

Replaced the carb with a reman.(had a junk spare to core for it and still have a decent carb for a rebuild).

Cleaned and gapped the plugs and replaced the vaccuum advance line from carb to dissy. Runnning better than before.

One hitch, doesn't idle smoothly, kinda like I am running a lumpy cam. Could that be a timing issue?
 
Maybe a vacuum leak? Dribble a few drops of gasoline down the intake while it's idling and see if it smooths out. If it does, check around every hose and gasket for any leaks.
 
Yep, sounds like it needs valve adjustment.
 
19Valiant69 said:
Thanks for all the help guys. Finally after way to long and three cans of starting fluid finally had a chance to go at the car.

Replaced the carb with a reman.(had a junk spare to core for it and still have a decent carb for a rebuild).

Cleaned and gapped the plugs and replaced the vaccuum advance line from carb to dissy. Runnning better than before.

One hitch, doesn't idle smoothly, kinda like I am running a lumpy cam. Could that be a timing issue?
Click to expand...
I completely missed putting a plug in my Edelbrock Carb. It was in the plastic package and needed to be put in the back of the Carb where the Brake booster line could go. Just a thought.
 
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