Still just weighing all options. Does anyone have any info to share where they went from a stock 2 row 22" radiator with shroud to a stock 2 row 26" with shroud? Was there any difference in cooling temps?
will upgrading from stock 22" radiator to stock 26" make any difference????????????
- Thread starter duster360
- Start date
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Snake
Mopar Nut
I have in the past help some but now all my cars get a 3 row regardlesssss.
Well, you have about 80 more sq. inches of radiator surface exposed for cooling as well as about a quart and a half more water.
And in old cooling systems, every little bit helps.
If you use the A/C water pump pulley as oppossed to a non A/C pulley, your ratio on the water pump to crankshaft speed goes from .95 to 1.20.
And in old cooling systems, every little bit helps.
If you use the A/C water pump pulley as oppossed to a non A/C pulley, your ratio on the water pump to crankshaft speed goes from .95 to 1.20.
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Yes...Surface area cools more than rows.
.......and air gets hotter after each row.
demon seed
The Original Demon Seed
Lets back up the boat her for a minute Duster 360. Are you experiencing problems now and if so at the very least have to had the existing rad flushed and cleaned by a reputable outfit. Also what kind of a fan are you running.
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
From your past posts you are hitting 205 degrees when it's hot out. I still think you are trying to solve an imaginary problem.
Drove the car yesterday and it was 99*. Sat at the drive thru for about 5 minutes and the temps hit 210* and I never could get it under 205* the whole 10 mile trip to where I was going. I can tell the car does not like these temps. When it gets this warm the idle changes a little and my oil pressure drops. Up to 200* at 2800 rpm the car has 55lbs. of oil pressure and when it goes over that it will drop to 45lbs.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
45 lbs at road speed is still way safe.
I used to have a stock 19 inch radiator with no shroud and a 18 inch steel factory fan about 2 inches from the radiator (Due to a spacer)
My car has 65 lbs of oil at 2800 warmed up to 190 degrees, and 45 at idle.
It ran just about what yours does in traffic or parking lots around town, and would perculate (start gurgling from boiling) but not overflow really at all.
I was not happy with that since I live in Arizona, and wanted to drive through hell itself if I wanted to because hell is about 90 miles south of me (Phoenix) and I somtimes need to go there for parts and such.
I probably didn't need to, but I replaced the water pump with an 8 impeller pump instead of the 7 impeller.
Bought a 2 row 26 inch radiator from Checker Auto($180) a 17 inch Jegs electric 2400 CFM S-blade fan($45), and an adjustable thermostatic controller for the fan so I could set when the fan came on and went off (another $35).
I have a 190 thermostat in it and now have a hard time keeping it up to 190 on the hiway because of the extra cooling surface of the 26 radiator.
I drove it to Phoenix last week and it was about 75 where I live and 90 in Phoenix when I left at 5 in the morning.
I got all the way down to Phoenix before the engine got over 180 with a 190 thermostat.???
While I was there I needed to drive around to different places stop and go stuff in town and when it got to 210 degrees my fan came on and brought it back down to 190 and shut off again.
Going back home it was about 105 outside and the engine stayed at 190 on the freeway till I was almost home and started going under 190 again. (180-185) and it was 80 here by then.
Before I did this to the cooling system I flushed the engine block really well with a garden hose and compressor, to blast the water through the block with air. (a trick I learned a long time ago) and a lot of orange rusty crap came out.
I ran the garden hose into the thermostat opening in the intake, with an air nossle from the compressor, wrapped a wet rag around the both of them for a good seal.
Run the water full blast and about every 5 seconds I hit it with a blast of air.
Works really well, as these old engine blocks collect a lot of sediment at the bottom of the cylinder walls after all those years that causes "hot spots" on the inside of the cylinders.
To answer your original question though, sure more cooling surface and therefor more coolant will lower your overall temps as long as you have some decent airflow, and 200 for a few more inches of surface is worth it to you.
Like some of us said though, 210 aint bad so you might want to flush the block real well and see if that does it for you before spending the money on stuff you may not even need.
I used to have a stock 19 inch radiator with no shroud and a 18 inch steel factory fan about 2 inches from the radiator (Due to a spacer)
My car has 65 lbs of oil at 2800 warmed up to 190 degrees, and 45 at idle.
It ran just about what yours does in traffic or parking lots around town, and would perculate (start gurgling from boiling) but not overflow really at all.
I was not happy with that since I live in Arizona, and wanted to drive through hell itself if I wanted to because hell is about 90 miles south of me (Phoenix) and I somtimes need to go there for parts and such.
I probably didn't need to, but I replaced the water pump with an 8 impeller pump instead of the 7 impeller.
Bought a 2 row 26 inch radiator from Checker Auto($180) a 17 inch Jegs electric 2400 CFM S-blade fan($45), and an adjustable thermostatic controller for the fan so I could set when the fan came on and went off (another $35).
I have a 190 thermostat in it and now have a hard time keeping it up to 190 on the hiway because of the extra cooling surface of the 26 radiator.
I drove it to Phoenix last week and it was about 75 where I live and 90 in Phoenix when I left at 5 in the morning.
I got all the way down to Phoenix before the engine got over 180 with a 190 thermostat.???
While I was there I needed to drive around to different places stop and go stuff in town and when it got to 210 degrees my fan came on and brought it back down to 190 and shut off again.
Going back home it was about 105 outside and the engine stayed at 190 on the freeway till I was almost home and started going under 190 again. (180-185) and it was 80 here by then.
Before I did this to the cooling system I flushed the engine block really well with a garden hose and compressor, to blast the water through the block with air. (a trick I learned a long time ago) and a lot of orange rusty crap came out.
I ran the garden hose into the thermostat opening in the intake, with an air nossle from the compressor, wrapped a wet rag around the both of them for a good seal.
Run the water full blast and about every 5 seconds I hit it with a blast of air.
Works really well, as these old engine blocks collect a lot of sediment at the bottom of the cylinder walls after all those years that causes "hot spots" on the inside of the cylinders.
To answer your original question though, sure more cooling surface and therefor more coolant will lower your overall temps as long as you have some decent airflow, and 200 for a few more inches of surface is worth it to you.
Like some of us said though, 210 aint bad so you might want to flush the block real well and see if that does it for you before spending the money on stuff you may not even need.
Do you have a clutch fan on it ??
And if you do, is it working properly....like sounding like a B-17 when you take off after sitting at the drive-thru for a couple of minutes?
And if you do, is it working properly....like sounding like a B-17 when you take off after sitting at the drive-thru for a couple of minutes?
Pulled all freeze plugs and checked block, there might have been a spoon full of sediment on each side of the block. I flushed everything very well to make sure it was very clean. Waterpump is an 8 blade, with 18" flexalite fan. Also radiator is new and has a shroud on it.
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
I would get a real fan before switching out the radiator. But then again..... I don't see that you have a problem.
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
My recommendation would be a clutch fan.
I do have a correct for A bodies, factory 7 blade, 17 1/2" clutch fan with a new clutch, the jaguar one everyone was recommending. I had it on the car at one time but removed it before I really started driving the car. Do you think the stiffer blades will help bring in more air?
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
If you have it, I would try it. It won't cost anything.
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