Windshield and rear window seal

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MoparMic

MoparMic

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I was shopping around for the windshield and rear window seals for my car and I noticed that there is a big price difference between a few of the company's like classic had them fairly cheep but Metro were over double the price which made me think they might be better part. It was about 8 years ago when i took out the windows of my car so i may be wrong but it seemed that there was a spline that i pulled out of the seal that made the glass come out easyer? almost forgot its a 68 barracuda FB
 
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If you don't want any headaches go with Precision or Steele. Besides fitment you want the gasket to have a soft rubbery feel to it in order to make it easier to install. If the gasket is hard it will make the installation hard.

When you are speaking of "spline" .... if it was a lock strip that is used to tighten the gasket to the glass .... that is a 67 gasket. Mopar used that system on the 67 only then switched to the self locking on 68 and 69.
All and all if you have the stainless trim you have the 68 .... you will need the self locking.
I have a 67 cuda and just converted mine over to the 68. I purchased the trim from a member and bought the 68 gaskets. Mine initially had the lock strip but I was missing the corner pieces and really didn't like the lock strip look.
It's been about 8 yrs ago .... and right now I can't remember exactly which company I purchased the gaskets. I do remember that they was expensive but I didn't have any headaches in installation. I'm thinking it was Steele.
After getting back started on my fastback cuda this year I noticed that the rear glass was leaking at the rear corners. I fixed it buy using a non harding sealant that is used on RVs windshields and it worked like a charm. This stuff is better than the traditional bed and glaze. Less messy as well.
I've worked for Safelite and a auto glass shop so if you need any advice I might can help you. Just PM me if you like.
 
In 68 models we can find both 2 piece and self locking window gaskets at the rear window. I don't know that they are all OEM, like Chrysler had 2 suppliers or changed in mid stream or just what the deal was, but I have seen rear window gaskets with a round lock cord that appeared to be OEM in other than the 67 model.
In the end, which gasket design doesn't matter so long as it fits the car and fits under the stainless reveal moldings.
 
mullinax95 said:
If you don't want any headaches go with Precision or Steele. Besides fitment you want the gasket to have a soft rubbery feel to it in order to make it easier to install. If the gasket is hard it will make the installation hard.

When you are speaking of "spline" .... if it was a lock strip that is used to tighten the gasket to the glass .... that is a 67 gasket. Mopar used that system on the 67 only then switched to the self locking on 68 and 69.
All and all if you have the stainless trim you have the 68 .... you will need the self locking.
I have a 67 cuda and just converted mine over to the 68. I purchased the trim from a member and bought the 68 gaskets. Mine initially had the lock strip but I was missing the corner pieces and really didn't like the lock strip look.
It's been about 8 yrs ago .... and right now I can't remember exactly which company I purchased the gaskets. I do remember that they was expensive but I didn't have any headaches in installation. I'm thinking it was Steele.
After getting back started on my fastback cuda this year I noticed that the rear glass was leaking at the rear corners. I fixed it buy using a non harding sealant that is used on RVs windshields and it worked like a charm. This stuff is better than the traditional bed and glaze. Less messy as well.
I've worked for Safelite and a auto glass shop so if you need any advice I might can help you. Just PM me if you like.
Click to expand...

Can you tell us what the non-harding sealant used on RV windshields is?
 
MOPAR4Me said:
Can you tell us what the non-harding sealant used on RV windshields is?
Click to expand...

I sure can.... give me little time and I will go out to the shop.

I went to the auto glass place I used to work and was going to get some bed and glaze to fix the leak I had. My ex boss said we don't use that anymore we use this...lol
I'll get it for you.
The reason I had a leak is I never completed the installation. I was wanting the glass/gasket to settle and had other things going on. Finally got my stainless trim installed now.
 
MOPAR4Me said:
Can you tell us what the non-harding sealant used on RV windshields is?
Click to expand...

Dekalin Dekaseal 8936

You'll like working with this sealant opposed to bed and glaze.

IMG_3543_zpsys1i90lb.jpg
 
Also take a look at justmopar.com they have all seals and at good prices i think.
 
Sedanman said:
Is it similar to butyl sealant for gasketed glass?
Click to expand...

Can't say for sure.... I have never used a butyl sealant but have used butyl tape. We always used bed and glaze around the pitch weld and gasket ....and urethane between the glass and gasket.
The Dekaseal comes out of the cartridge like regular chalk/urethane but stays rubbery. I can place my finger onto it and it will not stick. It flashes off a tad and thens gets somewhat "harder" but it stays rubbery. When I talked to my ex boss at the auto glass place he had a wad of it sitting on the counter. It is formable and doesn't stick in a messy type fashion.
I unlocked the self locking gasket, applied the Dekaseal underneath, locked the gasket, then applied some in the pitch weld area under the stainless trim. Before I installed the stainless trim I ran a water hose all over the backglass and the leak was gone. No need to wait for the stuff to dry or anything. It is amazing type stuff... lol
 
Gonna have to save this thread for reference when I change my Duster windshield
 
I used the modern sealant (urethane) on my glass and it ended up bonding the seal to the glass ruining the seals during removal costing me another $300 in seals.
 
My 75 has lockstrips both front and back - Precision brand from Dantes. (under $100 each a few years ago) Look just like what I removed that I believe were original. I used butyl in caulk tube from NAPA to bed the bottom of the front seal on the metal 'shelf' everywhere else around the front and back I used butyl ribbon type Windo-weld to secure to pinchweld. I added the urethane windoweld in calk gun tube under the lip to the glass after install.
 
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