Windshield sealer

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69swinger340391

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I had the front windshield and rear window reinstalled after replacing the headliner, but the window guy said he doesn't have the butyl sealer, only the newer stuff that dries solid.

For now the windows are installed without any sealer and as expected water leaks in when it gets wet so it stays in the garage when it rains.

What are you guys using for sealer with your window installs? Is the butyl still available or is there a substitute?
 
just had my windshield installed last month.

the installer gave me a choice of the beautyl on a strip or the caulked in ureathane.

I asked what he recommended and he said they had their own pros and cons.

he said the urethane would guarantee a better seal but would squeeze out some upon install and might leave a bit of a mess and he said that if I were to ever have to remove the windshield that I would not be a happy camper.

he said the butyl strip is what came from the factory and seals up well.

so thats what i went with

you can go to your local advance autoparts and they sell rolls of butyl strips in a box ( I think 3m brand )
 
Had the front and rear glass done a couple of weeks ago, butyl was used by the glass people.
 
I used 3M product called Windo-Weld. It did make a mess. Cleaned up with the same charcoal starter fluid that cleaned the gaskets for reuse. No leaks yet.
 
You actually should use both. A butyl strip inside the gasket and pinch weld and a urethane between gasket and glass. It causes a mess but it will clean up to perfection in no time. We have removed windshields that have been urethaned in and it does make it more difficult to remove but it's not that more difficult. Glass companies will tell you that because they don't want to clean the mess up.

I'm just at the point to install my reveal moldings on the windshield and back glass on the 67 cuda. I WILL urethane the gaskets.
 
"You actually should use both. A butyl strip inside the gasket and pinch weld and a urethane between gasket and glass."

Mullinax........

Do you mean to use a strip of butyl tape on the pinch weld all around the windshield before installing the gasket and windshield, or do you cram it into the channel on the gasket?

If not tape, is it butyl from a caulking gun? If so, do you just apply it into the channel on the gasket before installing?
 
Do you mean to use a strip of butyl tape on the pinch weld all around the windshield before installing the gasket and windshield, or do you cram it into the channel on the gasket?

Yes butyl tape 6mm

No not technically crammed in there BUT where the gasket meets the pinch weld. OK after you have gasket installed on windshield or back glass run a rope inside the gasket to pinch weld area start at the BOTTOM and ending at BOTTOM of the windshield or back glass. Leave extra so you have a place to pull the rope out going left and right. Tape the extra rope to the center of the glass so it will not get in your way once you flip the glass over to go into the vehicle. Then starting at the BOTTOM of the glass/windshield run butyl tape starting at the BOTTOM around to perimeter and end at the BOTTOM of the glass (like you did the rope) in the area previously mentioned. With a high quality glass cleaner in a spray can (not Windex since it does not have the slickness as a good DOW glass cleaner has) spray the gasket area very good then spray the pinch weld of the vehicle. SOAK IT GOOD! This will allow movement of the rope and buytl tape until it drys. The high quality cleaner I'm speaking of foams as it is applied.... you more than likely know what I'm talking about. It really takes three people to it professionally (make life easier) without trouble. After laying the glass in the "hole" and making sure it is centered have a person on each side apply steady pressure to the glass. Do not allow them to let up at any time. With one person inside vehicle pull the rope out going left and right at the bottom of the glass making sure the gasket is over lapping the pinch weld. You might need picking tool to pull gasket over the pinch weld inside vehicle. After you have established that the gasket is over the pinch weld at the bottom proceed to pull the rope up the A-pillar on both sides to the top of the pinch weld. At this point the out side people can "pat" the glass in around the edges USING A CUPPED HAND. Using a flat hand will increase the possibility of breaking the glass... especially the laminated windshield. The tempered back glass is less forgiving about breaking. Basically you will have to "pat" in the top portion all the away across as well as have the people on the outside pulling down "seating" glass if it seems that it will not go in. The rope should be pulled inward to the center of the glass from each side until the rope comes out. At this point you should be ok and there you have it. Before locking the "self locking" gasket go around UNDER the gasket all the around the perimeter of the glass on the outside with 418 Dow urethane. The tip of the caulk tube should be under the gasket at all times until you have made a complete circle of the glass. A little bit will go a long way but if you use to much all you are doing is increasing clean up time. Lock the gasket in place and then using Adhesive cleaner (get in at NAPA auto parts)clean up the mess. You will more than likely go through alot of paper towels. If you get urethane on the car's paint the adhesive cleaner will not affect the paint unless its in primer stage and then it shouldn't be to big of problem. Let it set and dry up as much as possible before driving the vehicle.... 12 hrs should be fine. Now you want to use bed a glaze along where the gasket meets the body of the (the area that is under and will be hid with the reveal molding). This will eliminate ANY potential of air leaks or water leaks but I seriously doubt you will have that. Once you have ran a bead there you can smooth it out with your finger and then snap your reveal moldings on. You will want to where plastic type gloves just about the entire time. That's it... you now have a professionally installed back glass or wind shield.

If not tape, is it butyl from a caulking gun? If so, do you just apply it into the channel on the gasket before installing?

I believe I have answered that question above.... I hope so anyways. lol

Let me know how it goes. We have done numerous installs like this on numerous different older model cars and have yet have a return of water leaks or air leaks.

Feel free to ask any questions that I might not have covered.
 
Thanks Mullinax for taking the time to reply with such a detailed answer.....I'm going to print these instructions and use them.
 
Thanks Mullinax for taking the time to reply with such a detailed answer.....I'm going to print these instructions and use them.

You are more than welcome. I might print them off also in case I start forgetting how to do it. lol

Hope it goes well for you. We sometimes hit a road block and it gets kind of chaotic but it comes out in the end. Different older model cars seem to have different road blocks. lol
 
Mullinax,

Help, My brain is hitting a road block!

When you stated:

"flip the glass over to go into the vehicle. Then starting at the BOTTOM of the glass/windshield run butyl tape starting at the BOTTOM around to perimeter and end at the BOTTOM of the glass (like you did the rope) in the area previously mentioned."


With this method, sounds like you are you applying butyl only and no other sealer to the fence area. Hope I got that part right.

I just looked as my w/s gasket and the rope will install most the way around then it stops in the fence area so the butyl will be applied to the fence portion of the gasket.

The class cleaner and rope part I have experience with. Just never had any experience with this fence.
 
With this method, sounds like you are you applying butyl only and no other sealer to the fence area. Hope I got that part right.

Yep thats right.... no other sealer. The butyl tape will seal the rubber to the fence. We call it pinch weld not fence but I know what you mean.
 
Hey Mullinax, thanks VERY much for the detailed instructions on windshield installation. As it turns out, I'm on the verge of my first windshield install on my '72 Swinger. I was going to have a pro do it for me, but I can't find anyone around here to come to the car - they all want me to bring the car to them (which would require towing or a trailer, etc.), so I'm seriously considering doing it myself. You seem to have a lot of experience in this, and I defer to your expertise. But I'd like your thoughts regarding my previous source of info on the subject:

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/projectbuild/mopp_0305_how_to_install_a_windshield/index.html

The Mopar Muscle guys seem to recommend installing the gasket onto the windshield frame first, then the glass. Obviously, this method doesn't use the rope technique.

Now, I NEVER believe everything I read in a magazine. But in your opinion, what would be the advantages/disadvantages of each of the two methods of installation? Needless to say, I only wanna do this once, and I wanna get it right, but your method seems a bit more "challenging", so I want to make sure I've got every bit of info first. Thanks for sharing your experience with us!
 
Doing the "rope in" is much easier than installing the gasket first... placing the glass in and then "picking" the rubber around the glass. But I know that most a time people have a different way of doing something and achieve the same result. Believe me when I tell you "rope in" is much easier.

We get a lot of people who bring the classic/muscle cars in to install glass without engines and we get to push them around. Windshields, back glass, door glass, etc... but sometimes they really don't want to bring there car to the shop and we will go to them. The pros you have talked to seem like they are not starving like we are. lol I mean most of the muscle cars we do are at paint shops, or a home owner with a nice garage... lucky sometimes ... but we usually take the job anyways. Now when they do bring it in it is much easier for us to do the install (talking windshields and back glasses) because we can control the environment, we know where everything is located, not in such a hurry, more prepared just in case there is a snag in the install etc... Sometimes when we do mobiles we have to deal with a lot of different situations. Dogs barking, smelly trash, people standing over you watching every move you (this one gets my goat) wind, rain, heat, cold.... I hope you see my point. Most mobiles however are late model cars and it doesn't take as long as our beloved old cars so we basically there about 45 mins max.

Our old cars are always least important, never in a hurry to get them done, put on the back burner. You go to a paint shop the owner is to busy getting money in his pocket with insurance jobs and then when that gets slow they move back over on our old cars. This is the same way the glass business does our cars.... insurance pays the bills, and pay checks. When we get caught up on the late model insurance jobs my boss tells me work on the 55 Chevy, Ford mustang, and so on. It's sad.

I don't know your circumstances if you have a nice garage , both doors on the car can be swung open on both sides, level ground, clean work area, but on my baby I would take it to them so they can be more comfortable doing the job. Be prepared also not getting the car back in manner of time that you expect it back. Most of the time this happens but like I say it depends when your car hits the shop... busy or not busy.

Now if you decide to do the job yourself keep some things in mind. If we install your glass and break it we will have to pay for it, if we scratch your nice paint job we have to pay for it, if the glass leaks we have fix to it on our dime, but if you do any of the above it comes out of your time and pocket. Your just buying a little insurance by letting us do it.

I'm sure you can do it but don't try to do it by yourself. Have a mechanically inclined friend to help you. Take your time is a key with working with glass. Let me know if you might have some questions.
 
Doing the "rope in" is much easier than installing the gasket first... placing the glass in and then "picking" the rubber around the glass. But I know that most a time people have a different way of doing something and achieve the same result. Believe me when I tell you "rope in" is much easier.

We get a lot of people who bring the classic/muscle cars in to install glass without engines and we get to push them around. Windshields, back glass, door glass, etc... but sometimes they really don't want to bring there car to the shop and we will go to them. The pros you have talked to seem like they are not starving like we are. lol I mean most of the muscle cars we do are at paint shops, or a home owner with a nice garage... lucky sometimes ... but we usually take the job anyways. Now when they do bring it in it is much easier for us to do the install (talking windshields and back glasses) because we can control the environment, we know where everything is located, not in such a hurry, more prepared just in case there is a snag in the install etc... Sometimes when we do mobiles we have to deal with a lot of different situations. Dogs barking, smelly trash, people standing over you watching every move you (this one gets my goat) wind, rain, heat, cold.... I hope you see my point. Most mobiles however are late model cars and it doesn't take as long as our beloved old cars so we basically there about 45 mins max.

Our old cars are always least important, never in a hurry to get them done, put on the back burner. You go to a paint shop the owner is to busy getting money in his pocket with insurance jobs and then when that gets slow they move back over on our old cars. This is the same way the glass business does our cars.... insurance pays the bills, and pay checks. When we get caught up on the late model insurance jobs my boss tells me work on the 55 Chevy, Ford mustang, and so on. It's sad.

I don't know your circumstances if you have a nice garage , both doors on the car can be swung open on both sides, level ground, clean work area, but on my baby I would take it to them so they can be more comfortable doing the job. Be prepared also not getting the car back in manner of time that you expect it back. Most of the time this happens but like I say it depends when your car hits the shop... busy or not busy.

Now if you decide to do the job yourself keep some things in mind. If we install your glass and break it we will have to pay for it, if we scratch your nice paint job we have to pay for it, if the glass leaks we have fix to it on our dime, but if you do any of the above it comes out of your time and pocket. Your just buying a little insurance by letting us do it.

I'm sure you can do it but don't try to do it by yourself. Have a mechanically inclined friend to help you. Take your time is a key with working with glass. Let me know if you might have some questions.

Thanks, Marland. I'll probably take your advice and try to have the car towed to a glass installer (but I don't have to like it, grrr... :) ). I can totally understand why a shop would prefer to do it in their own environment - that just means I have to have it towed to AND from the shop, since the car isn't inspected. Anyway, I have one more question for you. In my research, I keep seeing references to a "lockstrip". My new gasket doesn't seem to have one, but I think my old gasket may have. Neither your instructions NOR the Mopar Muscle version said anything about it. So what's the story? Do I need one, and if so, how/where is it installed?
 
Thanks, Marland. I'll probably take your advice and try to have the car towed to a glass installer (but I don't have to like it, grrr... :) ). I can totally understand why a shop would prefer to do it in their own environment - that just means I have to have it towed to AND from the shop, since the car isn't inspected. Anyway, I have one more question for you. In my research, I keep seeing references to a "lockstrip". My new gasket doesn't seem to have one, but I think my old gasket may have. Neither your instructions NOR the Mopar Muscle version said anything about it. So what's the story? Do I need one, and if so, how/where is it installed?


There are basically two types of locking systems for gaskets, one with a rope type rubber cord (separate from the gasket) you have to push in the channel to lock the glass in and two gasket is self locking. You more than likely have the self locking in which it is made in with the gasket. You lock it after you have seated the glass with a special tool (don't have to use the tool but makes life easier). The self locking is what I used on my 67 cuda in which from the factory had a rope type but in which it was chrome instead of black rubber. You should have been offered the locking strip when you ordered the gasket if it is locking strip type gasket. And if is self locking you should be able to look at it and tell.
 
My buddy has had a body shop for over 50 years and he has shown me how to install glass using the rope method. It works very well. I've done several pickup back glasses myself using the rope method.
 
Thanks Mullinax95 for this great thread. I've done the pick install about 3 hours in August...Subscribed.....
 
How thick is the butyl tape that is going into the channel the where the windshield goes? If it is too thick wouldn't it hinder the gasket fitting into the windshield?

The reason I ask, I have seen butyl rubber in a roll in an RV shop. It might be 3 mm thick. I was wondering if the butyl also comes in the thickness of tape on a roll. Is that what I am wanting?
 
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