Winter storage question.....

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burrpenick

burrpenick

'69 Barracuda
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I'm going to 'fog' my small block LA engined Duster this year. Was told to use Marvel Mystery oil in the carb and get it smoking before shutting it down. Sound OK? Any other oil recommended?
 
We don't have winter in Florida! I used to do that to my boat motor though. Just reg oil but that would work toI guess.
 
Hello All,
here is some good reading on the subject.
How to Use Fogging Oil for Your Car Engine Before Long Term Storage
Also now that we are all running spec motors on the Whelen Tour (NASCAR-Approved Spec Engine)
RCR recommends using fogging fluid after each race before leaving the track. Im guessing they know a little more on the subject of fogging fluid VS marvel mystery oil.
Keep in mind that you may need to change the spark plugs after the winter because fogging Or marvel mystery oil may have fouled them.
Also some stabil in the gas goes a long way.
I would test the coolant for P/H and change the coolant if its old or will not protect under lets say - 20 deg. I would not leave it empty (drained) because bare metal will oxidize and promote rust and scale in the system. Also rubber seals, gaskets, and hoses will dry out from the inside.
Walmart has both products cheap...
Happy Mopar :)
Arron
 
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Any marine dealer will have a good fogging spray. Mercury dealers have a good product.
 
I wouldn't consider “over winter” long term storage.

Fill the tank and make sure your antifreeze is up to snuff. Unhook neg battery cable and let it sit.
 
Willyrd said:
I'd get rid of as much gas as possible and drain the coolant too
Click to expand...

I have to disagree. One thing that fuel and coolant does is inhibit corrosion. You want to FULLY top off both fuel and coolant, and introduce a stabilizing agent. Draining fuel from carbs may be good, but not the tank..
 
For most cars stored, i wouldnt fog them.
Just fire them up on warmer days, warm it up.
Disconnect battery when you are done.
Sea foam is a good additive for your fuel,i use it in everything.
 
I agree. I'm in the midwest and find at least one day a month that it's nice enough to start the car and let it get up to temp. Hell, I'll even drive it if the streets are dry. Helps get rid of the cabin fever in me and the car!
 
Thanks guys...........my issue is that I am NOT in the same state where the car is located, so I cant start it periodically. I've not had any issues like this before w/other cars- when the engine appeared to be locked when I tried to start it. I sprayed oil into the spark plug holes and let it sit over night and it was fine in the morning, but this year I'm going to fog it using that Sta-bil product from WALMART. Yes, its stored in a garage but its not a tight one!
 
JoeSBP said:
I have to disagree. One thing that fuel and coolant does is inhibit corrosion. You want to FULLY top off both fuel and coolant, and introduce a stabilizing agent. Draining fuel from carbs may be good, but not the tank..
Click to expand...
Won't the water in the antifreeze crack the block?
 
so it's in an unheated garage?
I'd want some ventilation and would mist the engine with WD40,especially
the distributor,electrical and any exposed cast iron.The inside of the engine should be fine.
 
Up here a 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant is good to -40.
I never use the premix.
Universal ling life is good for everything.
 
Hello All,
Here is some food for thought.
Quote.
"After extended periods of time (more then a week or two) the thin oil film goes to zero on all surfaces. So every start is a low lube high ware start until things get back to having a oil film. especially hard on bearing and liners / rings, plus cam followers. So just leave it alone all winter. Then you have only one dry start on it." End Quote.
An a other note oil in the filter, oil galleries, lifters, and the oil pump pick up tube can drain back thus more of a dry start.
Condensation and acid's (by products of combustion) build up in the exhaust system when the car is started and needs to burn off, Sitting idling may not create the heat needed to completely burn off the condensation / acid's thus helping to shorten the life of the system.
Happy Mopar :)
Arron
 
Here is what I do to my boat engine here in the U.P. for winter and I think most of it will apply to auto engines.

Run it up to temperature.
Change oil and filter because dirt and acids in the old oil can cause problems.
Change fuel filter and top off tank with marine (non-ethanol) fuel that I add marine Stabil in. Ethanol attracts moisture and breaks down in short time. In fact, if you can run a full tank of non-ethanol fuel through the system before you store it you are better off.

I then start the engine to get the new oil and fuel distributed

I do not fog the engine as someone said it just fouls the plugs.

If you want to get really serious you can pull the plugs and squirt the lubricant of your choice in each cylinder and crank the engine to distribute and then put the plugs back in.

Make sure your antifreeze is good for the expected conditions

I pull the battery and maintain it on a trickle charge.
 
Running that engine in crisp cool air is about as good as it gets, man do carbs love it. I will crank mine as long as the temp is above 35-40. Especially since im running 15w-50. Pull it out of the garage and let it idle for 10 minutes, rev it up a few times, let it idle for another 5 minutes and pull it back in the garage. I try to run mine at least once every two-three weeks regardless of the time of year. If the roads have been salted then i wont drive it but thats not too often
 
I fog mine with transmission fluid get her smoking real good add a little more and shut her down. Cheap, simple and works good.
 
I disconnect the fuel and run the motor til it runs out of fuel in the carb. Also like previously stated, I also disconnect the battery, and top off and make sure coolant is adequate. Always check any southern car you may have dragged up north, had a buddy crack a block, on a trailer after coming from Fla. Sometimes they use only water down there
 
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