Wiped cam lobe = ported heads and roller

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roccodart440

roccodart440

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Well, the time has come. I wiped a lobe off the cam after 20 years of service.

Good news is I have a set of fully ported eddy rpm heads done by jim laroy and a custom comp solid roller that have been sitting in closet for about 2 years.

So I'm yanking the engine and having everything checked. The new heads, cam and did I mention ported victor intake are going on my 440. Should wake it up a bit.

What is the best roller rocker going? My machinist recommended a bushing type, not a needle bearing style.
 
Wiping out a cam was responsible for me pulling out the 400 and stroking it to a 500. I am running Crane Golds on my car, but I have a hydraulic roller cam. A friend broke one with solid roller spring pressures. Do they still make the comp stainless rollers? They would be my choice. I think I read somewhere that Mancini sells a non roller version of Harland Sharps which may be worth a look.
 
My Eddie headed 367 has over 125,000 miles on a set of non-bushed aluminum roller tips only rockers. Purchased at the dealer and installed in 1999.I run a lotta oil to the top. They have been pushing Hughes 1129 springs since 2004
 
PRW stainless is what I use with corrected geometry. best bang for the buck.
 
Sorry guys,

that should have read, what is the best roller lifter going?

I have HS roller rockers already
 
That's the way I see it. The only time I would automatically bush lifter bores is with hydraulic roller lifters.
 
I think I must have missed something, I have been running hydraulic rollers in my car for over 9 years without problems, with unbushed lifter bores.

IMG_1075.jpg
 
famous bob said:
IQ 52 , u talking big block ??
Click to expand...
B/RB, LA

I have a very low opinion of hydraulic rollers.

But you know the saying, "Opinions are like a-holes, everyone has got one."

Well, I've got both. But people seem to remember only one thing about me. I get referred to as, "Hey you. A-hole." It's never, "Hey you. Guy with an opinion."
 
I'm interested in your opinion, I'm am not aware of what the issue is that would require bushed lifter bores.
 
Some people chose to run hydraulic rollers because they worry about maintaining a solid roller. They don't know how, they won't learn, they've heard horror stories about constant adjustments, they figure it is cheaper or they just may be too lazy to adjust the lash.

I worry about oil control in the hydraulic lifter. Not all, but some factory lifter bores are oversized or worn out. Worn lifter bores are a source of leakage around the lifter and this can cause an operational failure (not necessarily a physical failure) of the hydraulic lifter.

We were a very small, low volume, small profit, two man shop. It's a killer to have one customer that I have to hassle with over and over because his hydraulic roller that, he demanded, rattles in his engine. I gave up building cheap engines to satisfy cheap customers because they want to save a few bucks on their economy engine.

All the blocks we see now are 40 years old. They are mostly worn out! New blocks, okay you can have hydraulic lifters. But I won't do hydraulics unless we bush the lifter bores.

"You won't build me a hydraulic lifter engine unless the lifter bores are bushed?"

No I won't!

"Well I'll just take it to someone else, A-hole!"

Bye.........Just my opinion.
 
roccodart440 said:
Sorry guys,

that should have read, what is the best roller lifter going?

I have HS roller rockers already
Click to expand...

I went with the Isky Red-zone bushed rollers. They were not cheap, but so far so good. The bushings are pressure feed to the axle and the grooves on the lifters do not uncover the pressurized oil passages in the block/lifter bore.

The benefit is supposed to be that they give you some warning when the axle bushing starts to go away, because the lash starts to increase due to wear, as opposed to sudden, catastrophic failure with the needle bearings.

On a side note, I wish my T&D's were a solid bushing instead of needle bearings, but they refuse to make them that way. I had heard that they did make some bushed ones for special order, but they refused to do mine. Any competent machinist should be able to bush them according to a buddy that is in the machinist guild. I'm running them as is now.

Also, I did use Mike at B3 Racing to optimize my rocker geometry. It was pretty far off without his kit and custom spec'd T&D's. Great guy to work with and highly recommended.

I did upsize my pushrods to 7/16'ths Manton Stage 5 pieces. They are truly a work of art in themselves. My valve train is quieter and smoother running than I have ever heard it. After the first few lash checks. it now rarely needs any adjustment. My RB has never run and rev'd to 7K as smooth as this build does. There is a noticeable absence of nasty valve train harmonics like the ones I felt with my hydraulic set-up that nearly cost me the motor.

The concern with several brands of roller lifters, both hydraulic and solid is when the lifter moves up and down, the oil galley can be exposed by the relief on the side of the lifters. It's something to check on mock-up anyway.

Rocker before1 (Medium).JPG


Rockers2 (Medium).JPG
 
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BAM lifters if your going solid cam, do yourself a favor and talk to the guy. If your going hydraulic , then all I can say is good luck with that..
 
IQ52 said:
B/RB, LA

I have a very low opinion of hydraulic rollers.

But you know the saying, "Opinions are like a-holes, everyone has got one."

Well, I've got both. But people seem to remember only one thing about me. I get referred to as, "Hey you. A-hole." It's never, "Hey you. Guy with an opinion."
Click to expand...

literally lol----
 
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