Wiper motor on relay

[67Dart273]

Do you know if parts are available? I have tried looking online and I have found several places that offer to rebuild it but specifically say they do not offer parts. I did notice at my local Ace Hardware they have some motor sweeps is it possible I may be able to fix it with out an original part?

I don't think internal parts for those were really ever available, don't know.

It MIGHT just be that some of the internal bushings, if worn, are common OD/ ID sizes, and these are available from a number of places, including McMaster Carr. I don't deal with them much because just trying to FIND what you want is difficult.

Since I also have variable, although they work, I'd like to know more about 'em

If you or any of the guys have obviously dead motors or switches I'd appreciate them for uh, dissection.

 

[jhdeval]

Can anyone explain the purpose of the backup lamp switch and where I can find it.

 

[67Dart273]

The "purpose?" It's to turn the backup lamps on and off. I already told you where it is

On newer cars, with the 3 terminal neutral safety switch, it's on the transmission

So far as I know, all stick shift cars are on the trans

Older auto cars with the single terminal neutral safety switch on the transmission, have the backup switch somewhere on the shift linkage. Mine is a console car, so the backup switch is on the shifter in the console. I don't remember when they changed, 68-69

 

[Rocky_JS]

Interesting development.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PLYMOUTH-VA...5|Model:Barracuda&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e69170810

I found this on eBay this evening but this is not the switch I have. I do not have the piece hanging off the end.

I have been inside my switch when I cleaned the contacts and lubed them. The switch I have has an off, low, high and variable position, looks like bar inside the switch that the switch contact runs along. How do I know if I have the right switch. the motor part number is 2580915

This looks like the switch I have.
http://www.bradsnosmopar.com/nosmo19allpl.html

I just looked at my spare, the variable switch for the 67 should be PN 2770378. The number is stamped on the switches barrel And yes they are a B to find.

 

[Rocky_JS]

Do you know if parts are available? I have tried looking online and I have found several places that offer to rebuild it but specifically say they do not offer parts. I did notice at my local Ace Hardware they have some motor sweeps is it possible I may be able to fix it with out an original part?

My wiper motor did not work either and at 300 for a restore of my old one I decided to try and get it working myself. I carefully took it apart cleaned it up armature, brushes, etc and put new grease in it. I tested using a chart like above and it works fine now and parks. there really isn't much to them. disconnect the harness from the bulkhead and use the chart to test the motor. if it works them work your way in. The reverse lights just share the connector.

here is the correct one on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/W-S-WIPER-S...70378-1966-69-Cuda-/230727585561#ht_677wt_952

 

[jhdeval]

Well good news just tested the motor and the motor runs fine so the problem is definately some where else. I am thinking what I want to do is put the ACC of the ignition switch on a relay and rather then using the solder joint I am considering a barrier strip. They can handle up to 30 amps. What thoughts does anyone have on this?

 

[67Dart273]

Well good news just tested the motor and the motor runs fine so the problem is definately some where else. I am thinking what I want to do is put the ACC of the ignition switch on a relay and rather then using the solder joint I am considering a barrier strip. They can handle up to 30 amps. What thoughts does anyone have on this?

I don't see any need. The IGN switch goes directly to the switched buss in the fuse box, so unless you want a barrier to add more fuses, if you are going to do that, I'd buy a modernized fuse box and just replace the one that is there.

You only need two power feeds to a fuse box --one that is hot all the time for stuff like tail lights, brake lights, and the "switched" ACC buss, for heater, wiper, etc.

 

[jhdeval]

Any suggestions where to look for the problem? The only accesory with a problem is the wipers. All the lights work gauges work. I have one instrument light that won't light but I don't think thats related.

 

[jhdeval]

As I understand the circuit it gets 12 Volts from the ACC bundle. I tried replacing the wiper switch and I have replaced the Ignition switch. Anybody have any idea I am guessing it is between the switches but the only thing I know of is the ACC bundle.

 

[67Dart273]

I'm about out of ideas "by remote control" other than what I've posted.

Seems to me the possibilities are:

Voltage drop through the harness/ bulkhead/ switch/ fuse box. You can easily see that, simply measure the voltage at the switch, and if it's low, chase it back through the harness.

Dragging/ friction in the wiper physical linkage and bearings.

Worn motor gearbox

Worn motor parts, bearings, brushes, armature

Electrical failure in the motor, IE damaged windings

ONE THING you could EASILY do is to make up a big jumper from the battery directly to the wiper motor. Use at least 14, or even no12 wire, and put a 20A fuse in right at the battery for safety. Make good connections, and run this to the motor directly --just for testing, NOT for any permanent use.

This should quickly isolate the problem into "halves" --- a harness/ supply problem, or right in the wiper system.

 

[jhdeval]

67Dart273 I did run a jumper from the battery to the wiper motor and it operated flawlessly. So the problem I am seeing leads to an electrical issue. As I understand the circuit to work from the bulkhead connector to the ignition switch to the fusebox to the ACC cluster then to the wiper switch then to the motor.

 

[67Dart273]

Sounds to me like we are indeed right back to finding the voltage drop and or install a relay

WHAT YEAR? I missed it. Seems that your switch is not fused, 65/64?

So, normalise the hookup, measure the voltage drop between the wiper switch and the acc feed out of the switch.

Then measure the drop from the SAME acc output of the switch back to the battery. It might be better to "rig" a load for testing. One way would be an old headlight, hook up both filaments and ground one side, hook the other to your wiper switch battery connection.

You can even use your OWN headlights as a test load. Disconnect you dimmer switch connector, install a jumper wire from the dimmer switch harness up to the wiper batt. feed. Does not matter if you hit high or low beam wire, but when you turn the key on, the lights should come on. Now you have a nice load for testing, and don't have to wear out the motor

If there's no real drop between the switch acc output and the battery, then it has to be between the switch and the wiper. There seems to be an in-harness splice in there ??

(We need to post your year model for certain)

If there's a drop between the battery and switch, chase it back, with load applied

Check ACROSS the switch, IE from the battery feed INTO the switch to the ACC feed out.

All these drop tests, you are looking for a very low reading, less than 1/2 volt

IF OK so far, check from the IGN switch hot battery feed to the OUTSIDE of the bulkhead, where the fuse link feeds the bulkhead.

Wish I was there. We could've found it by now.