Wiring Diagram/Pictures for Ignition/Starting system?

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ccsbivens

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So I cleaned out the interior of the filthy moss inhabited carpet and am now ready to get the engine running.
Someone has gutted the Ignition/ Starting system = FUN

So I'm wondering if anyone could provide a wiring diagram for this system. Not sure what goes where. I'm also picture oriented, so pictures of the wiring in your 74 Dodge Dart with a Slant Six would be even better!
thanks, Ccsbivens
 

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Look at www.mymopar.com at the Technical References section; it has all years of schematics. Quite a project there; when you said 'moss' and I saw the wet pix, I guessed 'Pacific NW!'....lol
 
I think the easiest things to do would be to buy a new harness.
 
I think the easiest things to do would be to buy a new harness.

Looking at the wiring, it doesn't look gutted. The ignition/starting is just cut up, everything else is there though. That being said, there is a lot of electrical corrosion. The fuse box is shot, was gonna just change it to a newer blade style panel, the light switch and wiper switch are rusted stuck.. so thats a definate issue.

What do you guys think I should do? Just replace what's obviously gone? Or should I rewire the whole car. The wiring diagram on that mopar site looks pretty simple..
How much would I expect to spend on a complete harness?

The mopar website was very helpful, that wiring diagram was very easy to follow
Thanks! Ccsbivens
 
Quite a project there; when you said 'moss' and I saw the wet pix, I guessed 'Pacific NW!'....lol

Hopefully it won't be too much of a project. My first goal is get it running so I can drive it then slowly work on it from there. The engine turns over and has compression, and the tranny fluid is a nice clean color. So I have no doubt this drivetrain has some life in it. With rust being an obvious issue, I'm dreading the day I pull the brake drums off..
And you guessed correctly, moved to Seattle, WA 4 months ago from Atlanta, GA. Definately a drastic climate change..
-ccsbivens
 
The harnesses are all separate. Engine bay has 3 - lamps, engine, wiper. Under-dash (incl. fuse box) is another. Body harness going to the rear (lamps, fuel sender). I put an 80's motorhome fuse box (dash) in my 65 Dart. Looked almost identical. Many wires plug into the fuse box and for hard-wired ones you can pop the terminals out to clean or put in a new plastic housing.
 
The harness under the hood looks ok, it's under the dash that has a lot of corrosion. Where's the best place to get a complete harness for under the dash that would simply "plug in".
I assume they're pretty easy to install? Take the dash out. Wire it to the dash components, put the dash in and connect everything to the firewall where it's suppose to? I ordered a Haynes repair manual, just waiting for it to arrive, I'm sure itd explain how to install it?
 
One thing at a time. Here's a pretty good shot of the starter relay connections and the back of the fuse panel. My starter relay is mounted right below where yours is hanging, screwed into the fender. My ground cable is bolted to the block, right behind the p/s pump bracket. I've rewired mine for the ammeter and alternator bypass and a GM HEI ignition module so the rest won't be much help. My wiring is in really sad shape.
 

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One thing at a time.

Yea, I found a wiring diagram that I understand to rewire the ignition/starting system. So what I'm gonna do is rig it up so the car will crank from under the hood so I'm positive the motor runs, then put a hot battery in it and see what everything in the dash is doing and go from there. Who knows, maybe once I clean all the rust out of the fuse panel and replace the stuck switches everything still works. Fingers crossed.
My goal right now is to get the engine purring before I spill any money into it.
-ccsbivens
 
I think you can find a decent interior harness on EBAY for under $100...usually with fuse box still attached etc.
 
Check the for sales on here. Not sure about years, but Im pretty sure Lee Robinson and Whitepunkonitro had harnesses up recently., probably others too. I would think modifying one a year or so off would be way ahead of starting from scratch.
 
So I've come up with a poa. I'm gonna get the car to crank first, then clean out as much corrosion as I can. See what works, and start fixing anything simple that doesn't. If I come across too many issues, then I will just replace the harness.
I think that's the smartest way of doing this
 
Just started thinking.. If there is a lot of corrosion, what are the chances the gauges are any good? Cause if not, then restoring the electrical in the whole dash sounds pretty exspensive
 
This was my fuse panel, I can only imagine what the back of the dash looks like when I take it off tomorrow

Quick question, simple to simply cause I Havnt received my haynes repair manual in the mail yet
Where's the starter solenoid, tried to look it up and it doesn't look like the average solenoid like I have in my ford. Is it build into the starter?
 

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Yes, it's built into the starter. To see if she'll start, run a jumper from the + side of the coil to the + battery post and jump across the large and small terminals of the starter. A remote starter switch is handy for this. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/actron-remote-starter-switch-cp7853/9090007-P Until I got some faulty wiring issues sorted out on mine, I actually connected a toggle switch (for power to the coil) and a push button switch (to trigger the starter) on mine so I could drive it.
 
Its in the starter. I've never seen the Haynes, but assuming its similar to Chiltons.. You'll want to get the Factory service manual. Theres a lot more info in them. One thing Chiltons was helpful on is seeing what changes were made from year to year.
 
I saw the dart in Wisconsin, I wanted the interior! But the car sold :(

I pulled the dash, everything looks clean. I sprayed the wiper/headlight switch down with pb last night, and the wiper switch is moving like it should and clicking, the headlight switch rotates but won't pull. But the gauges and everything else looks pretty clean. I'm guessing the way the fuse panel was laying, it collected moisture
 
Yes, it's built into the starter. To see if she'll start, run a jumper from the + side of the coil to the + battery post and jump across the large and small terminals of the starter. A remote starter switch is handy for this.

You read my mind, I wanna hear this thing fire before I spill any money into her. With currently a total of 250 invested, I can still get my money back going over the scales ;)
 
... Take the dash out. Wire it to the dash components, put the dash in and connect everything to the firewall where it's suppose to? ...
No need to remove the dash. Indeed, to remove it, you must remove the windshield to get at the screws. The harness installs fairly simply. It would be much easier if you remove the instrument cluster (needs bench work anyway?), and removing the front seats (easy) makes access much easier. The harness clips to the brake pedal bracket. The big wires are between the bulkhead connector and fusebox. That said, it might be wise to remove the windshield and dash if dealing with rust issues. Too many times we do a little bit, then later go back and do a bigger task that would have made the 1st one simpler had we bit the whole hog at once.
 
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