Wiring Harness. Side Link no good?

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Sully1190

Sully1190

Look. It's a Gold Duster.
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I'm looking at just starting over with the electronics in my duster. They're just terrible, and I'm tired of trying to patch this dumbass's work. So, I was looking for a some decent, cheap wiring harnesses, but the sponsored link on the side doesn't seem to be working for me anymore.

Anyone else have any suggestions?
 
What wiring harnesses are you talking about? The engine wires are usually pretty old and brittle. Under-dash wires are usually salvageable after you repair PO hacks. Could you tell us what car you have?
 
Sorry. 74 duster. Underhood and behind dash. Dash might be salvagable, I don't know. But nothing's working under the dash. And it's a mess from where the last guy tried to rewire it. It's like a rat's nest of random wires.
 
I have a dash harness for the vehicle in question. PM me and I'll make you a great deal. The only damage to it is the radio leads got cut.
 
Here's a thread, so don...............know..................

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=159563

I used a Painless kit that had been aborted, got it cheap. I don't like 'em and think they are WAY overpriced, and rely way too much on the "Chivvy attitude."

AbodyJoe has commented in the past he likes "American Auto wire"

But neither of the above are OEM.

There's always Year One...............
 
Just got done a few weeks ago installing a Painless harness. Not the easiest. After testing everything once it was done, turned the key and fired right up. Not all the wires in the Painless harness match the colored codes to the original wiring.
 
Pull the cluster out and then the whole wire harness, including the fuse box (1 screw) and bulkhead connector (metal release tabs on engine side). Post a photo of the harness and we can give recommendations.

Mine looked pretty bad in the car, mainly the sections easily accessible to monkeys, like the steering column harness and ignition key area. Out of the car it didn't look as bad. After cutting out butt crimped sections and rewiring nicer (solder & heat shrink), with correct colors, it looked much better. Just had to get another steering column connector set (often cut off by hack mechanics) and was good to go. The wire insulation was still flexible. I didn't bother with the factory vinyl wrap, which I removed (pretty bad anyway). I put the wires in plastic split loom (like modern cars). I also added custom features like a thick power lead for things like electric seats and stereo. It took time and checking diagrams, but I expect I would have spent a whole lot of time also with the very costly Painless Wiring harness or others. A nice rainy winter project and we have a dining table that is rarely used anyway.
 
In the middle of American Autowire install, I think that most of the factory connections use GM packard 56 style connections. Then just replace the wires with the closest color match and reuse the plastic end connectors. So just rebuild the harness.
X2 on putting harness on table
 
Mine was so jerry rigged, I just bought the Harbor freight wire rack for $40 and started from scratch. Good soldering iron and shrink tubing and a fre Packard 56 male/female's and about 3 hours of work. Make everything about a foot longer than you need, moving from the bulkhead connector forward. Wrap/split loom/whatever as you go toward the ends, cut to fit and then terminate. This way you can reroute stuff like MSD ignition and electric fans, etc. leads. Make a note in your manual if any of the colors changed (they will) and you should be good to go. Of course, if you have a model that is available, a wireing harness from a donor will put you ahead, but some cars are a little harder to find parts for. split loom is great as it allows you to sneak in there and test without unwrapping the vinyl wrap, and even replace a run without pulling the entire bundle apart.
 
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