Wiring questions for coil and alternator harness

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Muswagon

Muswagon

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Trust me I am as sick of asking silly questions as you are of answering them lol....

Coil... I am going to bypass the ballast resistor, as I am running a pertonix ready to run distributor. Positive to coil positive with a jumper to dizzy positive is what the instructions show. The question is, this harness with the wire that looks like a coil wire, one with red tape, that has to be my coil wire yes? the black I assume is for coil ground, I don't know what the spade is for, I assume for electric choke? There is also a trailer style connector there which I am very lost on.

Alternator... I bought a powermaster one wire distributor. So basically I am running a hot wire directly from the alternator gold terminal to battery. The question is, this harness that I am holding up, I assume that is the factory alternator harness? The one branch has two female spades and one eyelet. The other branch has one female plug style that goes on a stud.

I have never wired a Mopar, nevermind an older car in general so searching is not helping me much. Again, sorry for the questions that never end.

I am not sure how much of this car's harness is correct/butchered/modified.

coil.jpg


alternator.jpg
 
Turn the key off.

Test the wire with red tape.

Turn key to run

Test the wire with the red tape

If off, no power and on, power that is coil positive or suitable substitute.

Also check for positive during cranking on the wire with the red tape.

BTW your coil might still need the ballast resister?????

The protronics needs full 12v to function.
 
The first thing I would do is remove all the Chinese wire loom someone installed. Whenever I see that stuff I cringe with worries of whats twisted together under it. Then look at a wire schematic.
 
I bought a regular style coil that I have run full hot to before. Not sure what you mean by full 12V on the dizzy, instructions say to run jumper from positive coil. If that red wire is hot key on and crank, is that not suitable?
 
the harness you are holding up (in unmodified condition) would be 3 wires for alt and the female for a stud would be water temp. what you are calling a trailer plug would be to electronic distributor. spade to oil pressure and eyelet to positive coil.
 
doug 371 said:
the harness you are holding up (in unmodified condition) would be 3 wires for alt and the female for a stud would be water temp. what you are calling a trailer plug would be to electronic distributor. spade to oil pressure and eyelet to positive coil.
Click to expand...

Thank you!! I appreciate the help
 
I just did this recently on a 68 Polara. Used a Pertronix ready to fail module. With the stock coil.
You need to find out if the coil you are using normally uses a Bal Res. If it does, then the BR should be used unless you want to burn out the coil. The Pert requires the FULL 12v [ no BR ], which complicates the wiring. The only way I could see of doing it with the Mopar system was to use a relay or diode; I used the rel.
 
Ready to fail.... That is hilarious.....and of course concerning!
 
1..........No idea what you are working on

2..........Go to MyMopar and download the closest thing you can find for a service manual. If you have a 74, contact me

MyMopar

3..........Go to "MAD Electrical" and at least READ the section on the ammeter circuit. This concerns voltage drop problems in the bulkhead connector, ammeter, ignition switch, and generally, major components of the basic power distribution system

MadElectrical.com - Electrical Tech

Catalog

Assuming your existing wiring has not problems ---which is a stretch---Find the coil+ wire and make sure by testing as Dana said above. Then locate the ballast resistor--a white ceramic block either on the firewall or driver side fender apron--and bypass it. One way to do that is to buy some crimp on spade/ flag 1/4" connectors and make short jumper wire.

135010.jpg
 
So hooked up my negative cable and ground strap, installed the starter, and slowllllly put the cables on the battery. No smoke. Opened the door, buzzer works which is cool....and annoying as it changes pitch like any 50 year old mechanical noise maker. turned the key, I have power at coil. Gave the starter just a quick bump and it bumped. The guy I bought it from said it was a running and driving car when he bought it, but that was in 1994 lol. I will bypass the ballast resistor tonight, picking up a connector kit on way home. I like that spade idea, makes it quick. Running a coil that does not require a ballast resistor so I am ok in that dept. Have to fill the trans and rad, fight to get the plugs in, prime engine one more time and then dizzy/wires and break in the cam.
 
One caution is if you take the power for the protronics after the jumpered ballast resister, if youre ever in a side of the road situation and had to put in a coil that needs a ballast resister you will have to find a new feed for your protronics.
 
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