Wiring up an E-curve distributor

[1972dodgedemon]

I just removed the Mopar performance electronic ignition system in favor of an MSD E-curve distributor on my 72 318 demon and I've ran in to an issue with finding the proper 12v wire to power the coil. I feel a bit silly in having to ask this question, but what I thought was the proper wire ended up supplying power in the "on" position of the ignition switch and not the "start" position. I hooked up my timing light and the engine sparks once or twice immediately after cranking the engine but does not continue. I ran a lead from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive terminal of the coil just so that I could set the timing and take it for a test drive and it runs like a dream. What wire should I use to power the coil? Should it have power in both the "on" and "start" positions of the ignition? In addition to that, I'd like to know if any of you have a good wiring diagram of the ignition switch and wire paths through the firewall so I can find the proper wire.

Thanks all

 

[fishy68]

Sounds like you have it hooked up the accessory output of the ignition switch now. When you crank it the ign switch cuts power to the accessories to give more power to the coil for starting.

Hook it up to the side of the ballast resistor that has a full 12+ all the time. One side only has power when the ign switch is in crank mode. That's not the one you want. You could even tie the 2 wires together coming off the ballast resistor and hook it up there. That way you know for sure it'll have full power any time the ignition switch is on or in crank mode

 

[67Dart273]

No, here's the deal. Ignition "run" (IGN 1) is hot ONLY in run, not start.

The start voltage is supplied by the "bypass" circuit (IGN 2) normally brown. This "used to" connect to the coil+ terminal on that end of the ballast. If you are not running a ballast, you need to hook the "run" and "bypass" together.

 

[1972dodgedemon]

Yeah, I figured I'd need it to be on in both the on and start positions. The instructions specifically state that I needed to bypass the ballast resistor, so I removed the harness for the old electronic ignition system and I removed the ballast resistor. I didn't check to see which wire provided power to the ballast resistor in the on and start positions. Here is a pic of the wiring diagram that came with the distributor.