wood repaint question

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diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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so i picked up this really nice looking second hand bed off craigslist
its made out of wood (some pressed wood, some plywood, probably veneered)

this thing looks really good, it has a nice clearcoated wood finish to it BUT the powers that be have decided this thing needs to be white

i wanna say i got some paint kicking around, but can i just slap this on or does the whole things need to be scuffed up, or sanded?

(i hate painting)
 
My best results for refinishing wood painted projects would be using a deglosser, or if you're very fast at wiping use acetone or lacquer thinner.
Lightly caulk the joints. (Not Silicone)
Nothing looks worse when it's finished than dark gaps.
I have long ago abandoned sanding unless it is the only option or I'm just going at it to refinish in bare wood & I will use a heat gun to get 99% of the paint off before sanding, this minimizes sanding scratches & unnecessary dust. Hope this helps.
Also if you just wanna get some paint on it, clean it well & use some spray paint, just cover it.
Many ways to get it done.
 
thanks guys

i might still be able to convince the wife to leave it "as is"

i really hope so, i hate painting
 
Here is the primer you need right here. Used for painting varnished kitchen cabinets, and that bed frame you have with the clear finish on it.

Screenshot_20210501-004349_Chrome.jpg

A available at hardware/paint stores. Red Label Can, not blue.

Wipe the bed frame down clean with a towel and a little water. Let dry thoroughly, then apply 2 coats of this White Shellac Based Primer.

No sanding needed unless you have some imperfections you want to fill or sand out. Body Filler works good to fill in any gouges.

This primer will stick to everything, even glass. Make sure to cover nice floors and be cautious of drips and spatters. It's pretty thin to work with and needs to be stirred up well to get all the pigment mixed up off the bottom of the can. Good Idea to have the store shake it for you.

So yeah, 2 coats primer and 2 coats of Satin Latex Enamel all applied with a brush.

Wear rubber gloves for the primer, clean up spills with ammonia. Natural hair brush for the primer, then dispose the brush when done.

I have turned things white with just 4 coats (for coverage) of this White Shellac Primer by Itself. Leaves a hard durable satin finish all by itself, easy to touch up too should anything happen too it.

Brush it out straight, you will like the finish.

☆☆☆
 
Talk um outta white. Go natural like a good urethane.
 
Talk um outta white. Go natural like a good urethane.
I want to brother, I have never seen a repaint of a wood item that looked better then the stained wood

I will say this, the floor and the wainscoting in the babies room is a blond pine, this bed looks more like oak

So I can see how it could "clash"
 
Man, I should have kept my mouth shut

So, this is what I'm working with , the floor and wainscoting



20210501_094049.jpg


And the bed



20210501_095321.jpg



I was smart enough to explain that the bed actually matched the trim on these sliding doors I made a few years back (also in the same room)



20210501_094114.jpg



So now we agreed, im gonna paint the bed to match the doors, while leaving some of the trim pieces wood

i thought it was gonna be hard making "white" look good, now i got to paint it distressed, almost chalk looking flat white, and tape off most of the trim

@George Jets

is that primer thick enough it wont creep in under tape?
 
@George Jets
Is that primer thick enough it wont creep in under tape? ^^^^^

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No
That primer will definitely creep under the tape and make a mess out of your job. The skill is to brush the primer up close to the tape on the trim, not on to the tape. The finish paint will be more forgiving, but that primer will not.

You are bringing back memories here of all the professional painting I have done over the years in the housing trade. I never used tape when trimming things out, just taped the base moldings to protect them from paint spatter and drips, Customers use to say: Don't you use tape, I would reply no. It is a high level of skill running that paint bead up to the trim, if you bumped the trim you wiped it off immediately . . within seconds.

Good Luck on your project.
 
Man, I should have kept my mouth shut

So, this is what I'm working with , the floor and wainscoting



View attachment 1715731393

And the bed



View attachment 1715731394


I was smart enough to explain that the bed actually matched the trim on these sliding doors I made a few years back (also in the same room)



View attachment 1715731395


So now we agreed, im gonna paint the bed to match the doors, while leaving some of the trim pieces wood

i thought it was gonna be hard making "white" look good, now i got to paint it distressed, almost chalk looking flat white, and tape off most of the trim

@George Jets

is that primer thick enough it wont creep in under tape?
That shellac based bin is thick if you keep it stirred but it will creep it dries very fast on rollers & brushes, you need denatured alcohol to clean up or toss the brushes afterwards. I use it on cool days. There is a product called zinzer guardz it is clear shellac it works great on many projects
 
got about 4 coats of the primer on, and depending on how the wife likes it, i may just leave it the way it is

this stuff was a little thicker then i thought it would be, but man, is it fast drying
at one point i went to dip my brush and noticed there was a little skin forming on top...made me miss my grandma's pudding
 
Almost forgot to post the finished product
There was a little bleed through under the paint, but im happy with it

20210511_123402.jpg
 

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