Worthwhile upgrade to Hughes rockers?

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stumblinhorse

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I have a original stock valve train 69 318. I had the 675 heads done years ago to put in brass guides, new valves and comp stock like springs. Put everything back together with original parts; pushrods and rockers back then. The head were cut just enough to smooth them out. Don’t remember exactly how much. But engine runs good, no significant oil consumption, so I haven’t done a rebuild. Machine shop work is a long ways away for me and is super expensive in Denver. I had plans to do a hop up rebuild years ago so I acquired some parts. One item is what this post is about…

Is it worth the cost of new ball/cup pushrods to switch out the stamped rockers for a set of Hughes rockers? They are 1.5s. But maybe get a true 1.5 from the upgrade over the stockers? Not going to do a rebuild any time soon. Just did the rear main, oil pump and oil pan gasket Saturday(not an A body, it’s a D100, so pan just comes out without a fuss :thumbsup:). I already own the rockers for my rebuild plan from years ago…. So cost would be the pushrods and my time…

Thanks for your advice!
 
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With a stock hydraulic cam?

Just keep the stamped rockers until you do something different with the cam.
 
I have the 1.6 to 1 Hughes rockers and I like them and they're on a pretty strong build. I don't wave their flag as they sell a lot of hype but this is one of their better products I believe... They do a lot of reselling of other people's parts made to their specs...
I don't feel you're going to see anything in the seat of the pants on a regular Street build from using them... I have to agree with the others I would save them for when you get some solid lifters and a more performance cam...
 
From the stockers that might be an effective 1.42 ratio to a TRUE 1.5 effective is a 5.6% increase in lift. From a stock lift of .420 (I think), your new effective lift would be .444..
If I already owned them, and there was no cost in the swap, like you, I would be very tempted to try it, but before I did, I would establish a repeatable base line run without tirespin, from say 3000 to 5000 in Second gear. Then repeat after the swap. I would do this on the primaries only, having defeated the secondaries, so as to stretch out the time.
That is what I would do...... because it only costs me time.
IF ....... there was a significant time decrease, I would reconnect the Secondaries, and leave the 1.5s in there. But if not, then I would swap the 1.42s back in and go get me a 2800TC. lol. Now yur talking....
 
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Just get a 2800 converter without knowing a singular spec of information on anything else about the engine/car?

Ohhhhh boy!
 
Thanks for the guidance. The Hughes rockers are sitting inside my 2.02 J heads waiting for dome pistons for a high compression build since I can run pump gas at my elevation, 8000 ft.

Then the timing chain will be my next project. It had a bit of slop in it. I will see if the pan leaks and get the parts for the timing chain.
 
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Just get a 2800 converter without knowing a singular spec of information on anything else about the engine/car?
Ohhhhh boy!
I have a original stock valve train 69 318.
(not an A body, it’s a D100
my elevation, 8000 ft.
But if not, then I would swap the 1.42s back in and go get me a 2800TC. lol. Now yur talking....
That is what I would do......
 
I think the stock cam is .400 lift.

...and I think you're backwards- if the stamped rockers are not a true 1.5, then the effective lift is less than .400.

A true 1.5 ratio would bring it up to .400, not increase it above spec.
 
Thanks for the guidance. The Hughes rockers are sitting inside my 2.02 J heads waiting for dome pistons for a high compression build since I can run pump gas at my elevation, 8000 ft.

Then the timing chain will be my next project. It had a bit of slop in it. I will see if the pan leaks and get the parts for the timing chain.
Get a double tooth timing chain, not the nylon one as stock.
 
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