Would an extra 2" of tread width help?

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RockinRobin

RockinRobin

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I currently run 29x12x15 slicks (Hoosier) I hook pretty well, except for 1 or 2 tracks that don't have good prep. I am considering going from a 12" wide to a 14" slick, but would have to step up to 31" tire height. The tires are $100 more each. Do you think 2" more rubber on the ground would make a noticeable difference? How much do you think it would slow down my 60 ft?
 
I think the bigger tires will slow your 60 ft very slightly, compared to a GOOD hook with your current tire.
However, I think the extra height and width (both of which improve hook) will really help on your marginal track.
I'd spring for the bigger tire, unless you only want to run the track(s) with good prep.
As for how much? How "off" is it on the lousy track? Might lose .02 or 03 compared to good track, and improve by that much on the bad track.
(I ran a 14x32 on a 2500 lb ladder bar car with me in it, always hooked, best of 1.34/6.32)
 
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RockinRobin said:
I currently run 29x12x15 slicks (Hoosier) I hook pretty well, except for 1 or 2 tracks that don't have good prep. I am considering going from a 12" wide to a 14" slick, but would have to step up to 31" tire height. The tires are $100 more each. Do you think 2" more rubber on the ground would make a noticeable difference? How much do you think it would slow down my 60 ft?
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29.5 11.5 15 w might help too, it's 30.6, 13 inch tread 15 overall width
 
Traction problems? What is your engine/converter/transmission. rear end/ suspension combination?
 
toolmanmike said:
Traction problems? What is your engine/converter/transmission. rear end/ suspension combination?
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This right here, if the car isn’t set up well then the bigger tires are just a band aid and may not help on the bad prepped tracks.
 
toolmanmike said:
Traction problems? What is your engine/converter/transmission. rear end/ suspension combination?
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If the car wasn't set up right, would it do this everywhere else?
This is how the car leaves at all but 2 tracks:

TemFinals2023.jpg
 
413 said:
This right here, if the car isn’t set up well then the bigger tires are just a band aid and may not help on the bad prepped tracks.
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The car is set up right:
This is how the car leaves at all but 2 tracks:
TemFinals2023.jpg
 
RockinRobin said:
1.38 to 1.39
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The 2 tracks must be untreated or undertreated. A wider tire might work better for sure. Brand, compound and how you do your burnout may have an effect as well. Tire pressure too.
 
Unless you are trying to dead hook the car I wouldn’t add 2 inches more of tire. It takes a ton of power to drive those big assed tires.

IMO you need to spend some time looking at why your chassis doesn’t hook at 2 particular tracks. Maybe they require a different shock setting, or a different rpm on the 2 step.

Id look for ways to tune around 2 questionable tracks long before I bought bigger tires.
 
From what I see on videos, shitty prepped tracks don't look all that fun
 
At 1 particular track, 1st time trial is always a dead hook. After that he drags the track with rubber in between rounds which puts rubber on top of the glue but he doesn't spray.
 
RockinRobin said:
At 1 particular track, 1st time trial is always a dead hook. After that he drags the track with rubber in between rounds which puts rubber on top of the glue but he doesn't spray.
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So you just get that rubber stuck to your tires instead of tires sticking to the track
 
To the op, what are the other racers at the bad tracks doing to get their cars to hook?
 
on marginal tracks, we usually lower tire pressures, lower launch rpm,. loosen up front shocks for better transfer of weight, this is on a 9 " tires, and clutch car. bias ply tires usually is 1/2 # radials is 1 # . wider tire will slow you down, i've seen two tenths difference by adding two inches tread width. just food for thought.
 
toolmanmike said:
To the op, what are the other racers at the bad tracks doing to get their cars to hook?
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Pulling timing, lowering launch rpm, lowering tire pressure. It would be nice if I didn't have to adjust that stuff for each track, but at least it doesn't cost anything.
 
RockinRobin said:
Pulling timing, lowering launch rpm, lowering tire pressure. It would be nice if I didn't have to adjust that stuff for each track, but at least it doesn't cost anything.
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But that's racin' no one has a car that works perfect at all tracks under all conditions. Buy some wheels and bigger tires and give it a go. You'll never know until you try.
 
I run various tracks, it's part of getting down the track, we've done all that also. i have a setup for the tracks we run, called a base plan, the real world of drag racing,if you don't want to work on it then go to the better tracks only.
 
Being a person that runs 6.0’s and has had 1.25 sixty foot time some tracks just turn to trash.(14-32 slicks) I tamed my duster down some because of this switching from a 1.98 powerglide low gear to a 1.80 with sixty foots now 1.29-1.31 average. I spun so bad at Dragway 42 at this years three 20,000.00 races I swear I was still in the water box. Not once but back to back. I was going to come home and pull the transmission but my son said Dad the track is trash. He was right because all was well back at Keystone. Major changes will be made at that track in 2024.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Being a person that runs 6.0’s and has had 1.25 sixty foot time some tracks just turn to trash.(14-32 slicks) I tamed my duster down some because of this switching from a 1.98 powerglide low gear to a 1.80 with sixty foots now 1.29-1.31 average. I spun so bad at Dragway 42 at this years three 20,000.00 races I swear I was still in the water box. Not once but back to back. I was going to come home and pull the transmission but my son said Dad the track is trash. He was right because all was well back at Keystone. Major changes will be made at that track in 2024.
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Sounds like that's the way to go. I guess I'll experiment with launch rpm and pulling timing when I go out again next year. No transbrake and leaving off idle should keep the spin to a minimum, but there is at least one track where drastic methods are going to be needed.
Are you still leaf spring? I am Calvert split mono, Cal tracs, Calvert shocks all the way around. Still using slant 6 torsion bars up front too.
 
RockinRobin said:
Sounds like that's the way to go. I guess I'll experiment with launch rpm and pulling timing when I go out again next year. No transbrake and leaving off idle should keep the spin to a minimum, but there is at least one track where drastic methods are going to be needed.
Are you still leaf spring? I am Calvert split mono, Cal tracs, Calvert shocks all the way around. Still using slant 6 torsion bars up front too.
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Ladder bar with probably 20 year old springs in the back. And single adjustable strange struts in the front. I use the front adjustment to control wheelies which is probably the wrong way to go about it. I bought some lead but never made a weight bar for the front. That would be the right way for me to go about it.
 
A friend runs 8.70's (about a 5.50) with a big tire, back halfed, and a 4 link and has occasional problems at poorly conditioned tracks.
 
my car has calvert springs, rancho rear shocks, Q a single adjustable on front, 9" tires, and a clutch., six cyl t bars also., when i make adjustments, i can still pull wheels off the ground on the launch. takes runs to find what car needs , just food for thought.
 
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