Wrap Positive Cable w/ Battery Relocation?

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Just a thought, but I almost burned one of my cars to the ground, because I didn't have a kill switch. It got one after that.
 
BrianT said:
Passing tech at the nearest track in a street car is pretty easy. I'm not too worried about it.
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That comment sort of leads one to believe you may go to the track. Sorry if I read something into it.

Lots of ways to skin a cat when moving a battery to the trunk, some are much safer than others.
 
Safety is a concern of course, that's the whole point of this thread. I'm not going to cut my street car up to install a cut off switch though. This is a Saturday night cruise-in type of build, not a race car.

Grudge night at the track out in the country, they don't even check your lug nuts. Plus with the software available for your cell phone, you can get a pretty accurate 1/4 mile time out on a straight stretch of road.
 
For me, I'm running a seperate ground wire to the stud that holds the dash in and then running another cable from there through the firewall to the engine block. I've seen what a bad earth can do to an electrical system.
 
Brian may be hinting at the lack of tracks in the Kansas city area now that kcir is a field and heartland park has no owner.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
I noticed a clear tube coming out the side of the box. Is that for "venting" and does it go through the trunk floor?

I have a marine battery box with a lid, but it didn't come with a hose. Should I add one? Sorry for the thread jack
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Yes, the box is 100% sealed and even the wires are grommeted tightly to the box. There is a hole drilled in the floor so the box is vented to outside of the car and that's grommeted as well. Everything is included for that part if you buy just the box. As far as I know, that's the only plastic box certified usable for nhra, otherwise you need a firewall of some kind. It passes all the requirements, and even has metal tie downs mounted inside. I will also add it takes a lot of steps to actually get the battery out of the box.
 
Here's what I'm doing with my battery box, I'm adding a 250A fuse for the starter circuit and 100A for the accessories circuit. I'm doing this on my Charger but if all goes well I'll do the same to the Cuda as well.
 

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It all started with the same sources that told you 10 gauge wire would make your home theater speakers sound better.
 
I ran both power & ground cables inside the car without any sheath or wrap. They do not go over or near any sharp edges. Installed one of these kill switches in the ground cable:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hfm-batk
HFM-BATK_ml.jpg

Note that neither the switch or it's placement meets NHRA's bass-ackwards rules. I don't care, I'll never drag race the car. Switch is for ease of working on the car and a layer of security.

Used a pair of these, one black, one red, to go thru the firewall:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all76142
AAF-ALL76142_ml.jpg
 
ntsqd said:
I ran both power & ground cables inside the car without any sheath or wrap. They do not go over or near any sharp edges. Installed one of these kill switches in the ground cable:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hfm-batk
HFM-BATK_ml.jpg

Note that neither the switch or it's placement meets NHRA's bass-ackwards rules. I don't care, I'll never drag race the car. Switch is for ease of working on the car and a layer of security.

Used a pair of these, one black, one red, to go thru the firewall:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all76142
AAF-ALL76142_ml.jpg
Click to expand...

Just be carefull when putting a cutout switch in the negative to the battery. Don't get caught out running an earth back to the battery, say for a clock or audio system. Anything else that is connected will try and use the same earth path and you could fry something. :violent2:
 
For the penetrations on the firewall I'm using an industrial electrical gland. They an IP 56 rated gland and they get rid of the need for an extra join in the cable.
 

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Aussiemopars said:
Just be carefull when putting a cutout switch in the negative to the battery. Don't get caught out running an earth back to the battery, say for a clock or audio system. Anything else that is connected will try and use the same earth path and you could fry something. :violent2:
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Nothing grounds at the battery. First grounding point is the bulkhead feed-thru in the firewall. I wanted those two studs in the firewall for distribution points.
 
nm9stheham said:
Not trying to pick on anyone, but I don't know where this idea of lower voltage drop with finer wire stranding is coming from.
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Jo Diesel said:
Welding wire is just more flexible and easier to work with.
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Finer strand wire not allows for more flexibility but the wire has more cross sectional area when compared to larger stranded wires. I has to do with the gaps created in between the wires when looking at it in a cross sectional view.
 
I've never noticed strand count to be a factor in ampacity.
 
ntsqd said:
I've never noticed strand count to be a factor in ampacity.
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It certainly does, for the reason mentioned. If you compare cable's, say a 50mm squared cable or 1/0 guage, that is single strand and the same cable but it has 100 strands, the cable with the most amount of strands will be much higher rated because of it's ability to dissipate heat through out its own mass.
 
ntsqd said:
Nothing grounds at the battery. First grounding point is the bulkhead feed-thru in the firewall. I wanted those two studs in the firewall for distribution points.
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Yeah I saw those and I liked the idea of them but I would of had to put a shield over it or something to stop any possible shorting out under the dash. In the end I decided to run a separate cable from a separate fuse from the battery.
 
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