Your favorite rear end/final drive ratio and why?

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I've got a 9.25 in my '71 Duster with 3.55 gears, 28" tall tires, 833 stick. I run 60@2600. Engine is a 414 small block. Didn't want a gear that I'd be pulling second as soon as I put my foot in it. Plan to install the Tremec TKX soon but the 3.55 will stay. Then, I'll run 70@2400. I got the .81 OD.
 
With that much power, you could pull a 2.94 and it'd still haul ***, so I guess it boils down to what you want.
 
depending on your first gear, 3.09 I’d go with the 3.23, if it’s 2.66 then a 3.55. Would be the way to go, that’s with 27-28” rear tires.
 
My current engine is a Blueprint 408 stroker making about 460 at the crank driving an A833 4spd with stock ratios. There's more than enough power to overwhelm the tires in almost any gear...at least with my 255 no-season BFG T/As.

Would it be more fun with 3.23s or 3.55s? I just don't know and experimenting is outside of my budget currently... I'm hoping to learn from you guys before I invest.
I've done all the experimenting for you,lol, having run every chunk from 2.76 to 4.30 plus 4.88s and 5.13s, but not including 3.73s.
To answer your question, between 3.23s and 3.55s,
I would choose the 3.23s...... cuz 65=2519rpm
And it's hard to get the Cruise-timing optimized at any lower rpm.
-------------------------
Let's talk street use.
There is no sense in comparing a car with an automatic to one with a manual... even with identical engines; because the TC skews your ratios, and autos only have three gears, which are considerably further apart..
With a 4-speed, IMO, the best gear to run is, the one
1) that keeps your engine on the cam, for how you are driving the car and
2) for me that is Second gear,
3) if you can burn thru 2nd at will, then you can easily run less gear.
Here's the quick test;
the easiest way to see if your engine will be Ok with a lower rear gear is to put yur trans in Second to start off with, INSTEAD of First, and see how your 4.08 handles it. Don't pay attention to JUST the take-off. Also pay attention to when the 1-2 shift naturally occurs at various Roadspeeds and throttle-settings. Also, what is the lowest rpm that your 408 will spin the tires without toeing the clutch. And the lowest rpm that it will take a large amount of throttle without complaining or, especially, detonation. Try it for several days. Then if the 408 says no way, consider a half-Roadgear change; which would be (10.87 +7.82)/2= 9.34 first Roadgear
and 9.34/2.66= 3.51s rounds to 3.55s.
--------------------
What you are actually interested in is the roadgears.
You say you have 4.10s , and a stock ratio A833; but there are three stock ratios; The most common is the 2.66-1.92-1.40-1.00 So lets look at the roadgears, which is what I call the overall gearing, which is each transmission gear multiplied by the rear gear.. With the 4.10s they are
10.91-7.87-5.74-4.10 This is really good for low-powered engine.
Your stroker should have no problem annihilating the 255 street tires thru at LEAST the first three gears. Obviously then, you currently have too much gear for the chassis so the 4.10s can easily be ditched.
Look at that 7.87 gear. If you can spin that ratio at 3500/4000rpm, flat-footing it, then you already have more gear than your chassis can handle.
IDK what cam is in your engine but I'd guess about a [email protected]; Which, if correct would put your Powerpeak around 5000, which would put your Torque peak around 3500, and with good heads, you should be able to run to well past 5400 still pulling hard. That sets your powerband from about 3500 to 5400= 1900rpm
That A833 trans averages a Powerband requirement of ~.72 which times 5400 is, to a lower limit of 3900; so 5400 less 3900= 1500, which is less than 1900, which is really good, and you can probably average like 95% or more of peak power, all the way from 3900 to 5400. Which means, depending on your Roadspeed, the tires are gonna break loose anywhere from 3900 to 5400, with that 7.87Second gear.
Now, I'm gonna guess that your 255s are about 28" tall. Therefore, the Roadspeed associated with these rpms from 3900>5400 in 7.87 Second Roadgear, is 41>57 mph.
If you can break the tires loose, in this window, then, you have way more gear than the tires can handle.

So then, if your fun window is 41 to 57 mph, then the 7.87 Second gear is just about right for you.
But guess what;
You can get the very same 7.87Roadgear, by running
7.87/2.66 (in First gear)=2.96 rear gears, or
7.87/1.40 (in Third gear)=5.62 rear gears .
The engine does not care how it gets 7.87, it will perform exactly the same, with any 7.87 ratio.

Ok but; IMO having your powerband at the ready from 41 to 57mph is too high, this is getting too dangerous for me. My skill-level for sliding and drifting, and driving like a maniac, rapidly loses confidence at around 40/45 mph. And my 367 has about the same powerband . Lets say your confidence level is a lil higher, and tops out at 48mph, and you want to be at 5400, I mean these are just numbers. To do that with the A833 would require a Roadgear of 9.38. You can get that in 2.66First gear with 3.523 rear gear. Badaboom~ Because 9.38 Road gear is quite a bit more TM(Torque Multiplication), than 7.87, and you are currently annhilating your 255s in that 7.87 gear, you will be super annihilating them with a 9.38 gear. So in this case, depending on your definition of "fun" the 3.55s could be; 9.38/7.87= plus 19.2% more fun at 48 mph@5400rpm. And the lower limit will be close to 5400 x .72=3900 rpm=34 mph.
This is why I have 3.55s.
----------------------
Now to be honest;
a 2.94 rear gear will get you a First Roadgear of
2.94 x 2.66= 7.82, compared to
4.10 x 1.92=7.87 in the current 4.10/Second gear combo.... so between these two combos there is ZERO performance difference, in these Roadgears.
Here are the Roadgears;
10.91-7.87-5.74-4.10 Your current A833/4.10 combo
------- 7.82-5.64-4.12-2.94 the Regular A833/2.94s
notice the 7.87 versus 7.82; same thing.
Where the differences are is;
1) the 2.94 x 2.66=7.82 First Roadgear, is too low a number for my 3.67; which much prefers the 3.23s. However, my thinking is that with 255s, yur stroker will be able to deal with that, on account of she will have way more take-off torque than mine. and
2) the cruise rpm with 28s, and 2.94s is 65= 2300, versus 3200 with 4.10s. That's 900 stinking rpm. And 2300 is about the lowest rpm that you can still optimize the cruise-timing, with the factory-type distributor.
3) now, to see these roadgears on paper looks like this;

10.91-7.87-5.74-4.10 Your current A833/4.10 combo
------- 7.82-5.64-4.12-2.94 the Regular A833/2.94s
---- 9.08----5.64-4.12-2.94 the Commando/2.94s
>Notice how close 9.08 is to 10.91. the difference is 17% , but 9.08/2.66=3.41 and that is how it will take off... like it had 3.41s
>Notice how the 2.94s trade away the 10.91 blast-off gear, to get the 2.94 cruiser.
 
:rofl:Damn! How long does it take you to type one of these short stories? No-very informative. Carry on!
I've done all the experimenting for you,lol, having run every chunk from 2.76 to 4.30 plus 4.88s and 5.13s, but not including 3.73s.
To answer your question, between 3.23s and 3.55s,
I would choose the 3.23s...... cuz 65=2519rpm
And it's hard to get the Cruise-timing optimized at any lower rpm.
-------------------------
Let's talk street use.
There is no sense in comparing a car with an automatic to one with a manual... even with identical engines; because the TC skews your ratios, and autos only have three gears, which are considerably further apart..
With a 4-speed, IMO, the best gear to run is, the one
1) that keeps your engine on the cam, for how you are driving the car and
2) for me that is Second gear,
3) if you can burn thru 2nd at will, then you can easily run less gear.
Here's the quick test;
the easiest way to see if your engine will be Ok with a lower rear gear is to put yur trans in Second to start off with, INSTEAD of First, and see how your 4.08 handles it. Don't pay attention to JUST the take-off. Also pay attention to when the 1-2 shift naturally occurs at various Roadspeeds and throttle-settings. Also, what is the lowest rpm that your 408 will spin the tires without toeing the clutch. And the lowest rpm that it will take a large amount of throttle without complaining or, especially, detonation. Try it for several days. Then if the 408 says no way, consider a half-Roadgear change; which would be (10.87 +7.82)/2= 9.34 first Roadgear
and 9.34/2.66= 3.51s rounds to 3.55s.
--------------------
What you are actually interested in is the roadgears.
You say you have 4.10s , and a stock ratio A833; but there are three stock ratios; The most common is the 2.66-1.92-1.40-1.00 So lets look at the roadgears, which is what I call the overall gearing, which is each transmission gear multiplied by the rear gear.. With the 4.10s they are
10.91-7.87-5.74-4.10 This is really good for low-powered engine.
Your stroker should have no problem annihilating the 255 street tires thru at LEAST the first three gears. Obviously then, you currently have too much gear for the chassis so the 4.10s can easily be ditched.
Look at that 7.87 gear. If you can spin that ratio at 3500/4000rpm, flat-footing it, then you already have more gear than your chassis can handle.
IDK what cam is in your engine but I'd guess about a [email protected]; Which, if correct would put your Powerpeak around 5000, which would put your Torque peak around 3500, and with good heads, you should be able to run to well past 5400 still pulling hard. That sets your powerband from about 3500 to 5400= 1900rpm
That A833 trans averages a Powerband requirement of ~.72 which times 5400 is, to a lower limit of 3900; so 5400 less 3900= 1500, which is less than 1900, which is really good, and you can probably average like 95% or more of peak power, all the way from 3900 to 5400. Which means, depending on your Roadspeed, the tires are gonna break loose anywhere from 3900 to 5400, with that 7.87Second gear.
Now, I'm gonna guess that your 255s are about 28" tall. Therefore, the Roadspeed associated with these rpms from 3900>5400 in 7.87 Second Roadgear, is 41>57 mph.
If you can break the tires loose, in this window, then, you have way more gear than the tires can handle.

So then, if your fun window is 41 to 57 mph, then the 7.87 Second gear is just about right for you.
But guess what;
You can get the very same 7.87Roadgear, by running
7.87/2.66 (in First gear)=2.96 rear gears, or
7.87/1.40 (in Third gear)=5.62 rear gears .
The engine does not care how it gets 7.87, it will perform exactly the same, with any 7.87 ratio.

Ok but; IMO having your powerband at the ready from 41 to 57mph is too high, this is getting too dangerous for me. My skill-level for sliding and drifting, and driving like a maniac, rapidly loses confidence at around 40/45 mph. And my 367 has about the same powerband . Lets say your confidence level is a lil higher, and tops out at 48mph, and you want to be at 5400, I mean these are just numbers. To do that with the A833 would require a Roadgear of 9.38. You can get that in 2.66First gear with 3.523 rear gear. Badaboom~ Because 9.38 Road gear is quite a bit more TM(Torque Multiplication), than 7.87, and you are currently annhilating your 255s in that 7.87 gear, you will be super annihilating them with a 9.38 gear. So in this case, depending on your definition of "fun" the 3.55s could be; 9.38/7.87= plus 19.2% more fun at 48 mph@5400rpm. And the lower limit will be close to 5400 x .72=3900 rpm=34 mph.
This is why I have 3.55s.
----------------------
Now to be honest;
a 2.94 rear gear will get you a First Roadgear of
2.94 x 2.66= 7.82, compared to
4.10 x 1.92=7.87 in the current 4.10/Second gear combo.... so between these two combos there is ZERO performance difference, in these Roadgears.
Here are the Roadgears;
10.91-7.87-5.74-4.10 Your current A833/4.10 combo
------- 7.82-5.64-4.12-2.94 the Regular A833/2.94s
notice the 7.87 versus 7.82; same thing.
Where the differences are is;
1) the 2.94 x 2.66=7.82 First Roadgear, is too low a number for my 3.67; which much prefers the 3.23s. However, my thinking is that with 255s, yur stroker will be able to deal with that, on account of she will have way more take-off torque than mine. and
2) the cruise rpm with 28s, and 2.94s is 65= 2300, versus 3200 with 4.10s. That's 900 stinking rpm. And 2300 is about the lowest rpm that you can still optimize the cruise-timing, with the factory-type distributor.
3) now, to see these roadgears on paper looks like this;

10.91-7.87-5.74-4.10 Your current A833/4.10 combo
------- 7.82-5.64-4.12-2.94 the Regular A833/2.94s
---- 9.08----5.64-4.12-2.94 the Commando/2.94s
>Notice how close 9.08 is to 10.91. the difference is 17% , but 9.08/2.66=3.41 and that is how it will take off... like it had 3.41s
>Notice how the 2.94s trade away the 10.91 blast-off gear, to get the 2.94 cruiser.
 
What did you pick? Why? Are you happy? Do you wish that you picked something different?


About four years back, after saving up a wad of cash, I had the chance to pick out my "dream" rear axle assembly. My vision for my car was to make it as fun as possible on curvy back roads, probably take it to the autocross at some point, and to generally make it exciting and engaging to drive. To me, this usually means higher revs and lots of shifting.

With that in mind, I chose a mechanical limited slip (Eaton Truetrac) with 4.10 gear ratio. After living with it with two different engines and two different transmissions (just did a 4spd swap), I am not sure if I would have been better off with a lower numerical (more highway oriented) ratio. The main problem seems to be the lack of an overdrive gear and engines that don't exactly love to rev. The two 5.9s I have had tend make their power down low where they don't need as much help from the short gears.

My current engine is a Blueprint 408 stroker making about 460 at the crank driving an A833 4spd with stock ratios. There's more than enough power to overwhelm the tires in almost any gear...at least with my 255 no-season BFG T/As.

Would it be more fun with 3.23s or 3.55s? I just don't know and experimenting is outside of my budget currently... I'm hoping to learn from you guys before I invest.
If your stroker has been dyno'd can you post the results. That will tell you what gear you need depending on how you are going to use it.
 
What did you pick? Why? Are you happy? Do you wish that you picked something different?


About four years back, after saving up a wad of cash, I had the chance to pick out my "dream" rear axle assembly. My vision for my car was to make it as fun as possible on curvy back roads, probably take it to the autocross at some point, and to generally make it exciting and engaging to drive. To me, this usually means higher revs and lots of shifting.

With that in mind, I chose a mechanical limited slip (Eaton Truetrac) with 4.10 gear ratio. After living with it with two different engines and two different transmissions (just did a 4spd swap), I am not sure if I would have been better off with a lower numerical (more highway oriented) ratio. The main problem seems to be the lack of an overdrive gear and engines that don't exactly love to rev. The two 5.9s I have had tend make their power down low where they don't need as much help from the short gears.

My current engine is a Blueprint 408 stroker making about 460 at the crank driving an A833 4spd with stock ratios. There's more than enough power to overwhelm the tires in almost any gear...at least with my 255 no-season BFG T/As.

Would it be more fun with 3.23s or 3.55s? I just don't know and experimenting is outside of my budget currently... I'm hoping to learn from you guys before I invest.

Sounds like what I like. In the 80's the general consensus among A body guys than had street cars, the best all around gears were 3.23s. 3.55 made little difference at the strip compared to 3.23 and got worse mpg. 3.91 leaned more strip oriented and 4.anything were race gears. Keep in mind most of my thrashing was with a 64 Barracuda with a hot 273 and a 4 speed. I've run everything from 2.76 thru 4.10 gears. Tires from 25.6" to 23.4". I still think 3.23 gears are the best all around if going with 1 set. Funny noting that 3.23 was the standard gear for High Performance A-Bodies whether 273, 340, or 383. My brothers 67 273 car and my 68 383 Formula S have always run 3.23 sure grips. I always found it funny that guys with 4.10 gears and lower in their "race" cars would be putting along about 60mph as we would cruise all day long at 100 mph in the upper midwest. I had 4.10 gears in the Barracuda for about a month, pulled them and traded them off. I could not get traction at all, I don't know how you guys with big motors keep traction on the street with a car made to take corners.
 
I've done all the experimenting for you,lol, having run every chunk from 2.76 to 4.30 plus 4.88s and 5.13s, but not including 3.73s.
To answer your question, between 3.23s and 3.55s,
I would choose the 3.23s...... cuz 65=2519rpm
And it's hard to get the Cruise-timing optimized at any lower rpm.
-------------------------
Let's talk street use.
There is no sense in comparing a car with an automatic to one with a manual... even with identical engines; because the TC skews your ratios, and autos only have three gears, which are considerably further apart..
With a 4-speed, IMO, the best gear to run is, the one
1) that keeps your engine on the cam, for how you are driving the car and
2) for me that is Second gear,
3) if you can burn thru 2nd at will, then you can easily run less gear.
Here's the quick test;
the easiest way to see if your engine will be Ok with a lower rear gear is to put yur trans in Second to start off with, INSTEAD of First, and see how your 4.08 handles it. Don't pay attention to JUST the take-off. Also pay attention to when the 1-2 shift naturally occurs at various Roadspeeds and throttle-settings. Also, what is the lowest rpm that your 408 will spin the tires without toeing the clutch. And the lowest rpm that it will take a large amount of throttle without complaining or, especially, detonation. Try it for several days. Then if the 408 says no way, consider a half-Roadgear change; which would be (10.87 +7.82)/2= 9.34 first Roadgear
and 9.34/2.66= 3.51s rounds to 3.55s.
--------------------
What you are actually interested in is the roadgears.
You say you have 4.10s , and a stock ratio A833; but there are three stock ratios; The most common is the 2.66-1.92-1.40-1.00 So lets look at the roadgears, which is what I call the overall gearing, which is each transmission gear multiplied by the rear gear.. With the 4.10s they are
10.91-7.87-5.74-4.10 This is really good for low-powered engine.
Your stroker should have no problem annihilating the 255 street tires thru at LEAST the first three gears. Obviously then, you currently have too much gear for the chassis so the 4.10s can easily be ditched.
Look at that 7.87 gear. If you can spin that ratio at 3500/4000rpm, flat-footing it, then you already have more gear than your chassis can handle.
IDK what cam is in your engine but I'd guess about a [email protected]; Which, if correct would put your Powerpeak around 5000, which would put your Torque peak around 3500, and with good heads, you should be able to run to well past 5400 still pulling hard. That sets your powerband from about 3500 to 5400= 1900rpm
That A833 trans averages a Powerband requirement of ~.72 which times 5400 is, to a lower limit of 3900; so 5400 less 3900= 1500, which is less than 1900, which is really good, and you can probably average like 95% or more of peak power, all the way from 3900 to 5400. Which means, depending on your Roadspeed, the tires are gonna break loose anywhere from 3900 to 5400, with that 7.87Second gear.
Now, I'm gonna guess that your 255s are about 28" tall. Therefore, the Roadspeed associated with these rpms from 3900>5400 in 7.87 Second Roadgear, is 41>57 mph.
If you can break the tires loose, in this window, then, you have way more gear than the tires can handle.

So then, if your fun window is 41 to 57 mph, then the 7.87 Second gear is just about right for you.
But guess what;
You can get the very same 7.87Roadgear, by running
7.87/2.66 (in First gear)=2.96 rear gears, or
7.87/1.40 (in Third gear)=5.62 rear gears .
The engine does not care how it gets 7.87, it will perform exactly the same, with any 7.87 ratio.

Ok but; IMO having your powerband at the ready from 41 to 57mph is too high, this is getting too dangerous for me. My skill-level for sliding and drifting, and driving like a maniac, rapidly loses confidence at around 40/45 mph. And my 367 has about the same powerband . Lets say your confidence level is a lil higher, and tops out at 48mph, and you want to be at 5400, I mean these are just numbers. To do that with the A833 would require a Roadgear of 9.38. You can get that in 2.66First gear with 3.523 rear gear. Badaboom~ Because 9.38 Road gear is quite a bit more TM(Torque Multiplication), than 7.87, and you are currently annhilating your 255s in that 7.87 gear, you will be super annihilating them with a 9.38 gear. So in this case, depending on your definition of "fun" the 3.55s could be; 9.38/7.87= plus 19.2% more fun at 48 mph@5400rpm. And the lower limit will be close to 5400 x .72=3900 rpm=34 mph.
This is why I have 3.55s.
----------------------
Now to be honest;
a 2.94 rear gear will get you a First Roadgear of
2.94 x 2.66= 7.82, compared to
4.10 x 1.92=7.87 in the current 4.10/Second gear combo.... so between these two combos there is ZERO performance difference, in these Roadgears.
Here are the Roadgears;
10.91-7.87-5.74-4.10 Your current A833/4.10 combo
------- 7.82-5.64-4.12-2.94 the Regular A833/2.94s
notice the 7.87 versus 7.82; same thing.
Where the differences are is;
1) the 2.94 x 2.66=7.82 First Roadgear, is too low a number for my 3.67; which much prefers the 3.23s. However, my thinking is that with 255s, yur stroker will be able to deal with that, on account of she will have way more take-off torque than mine. and
2) the cruise rpm with 28s, and 2.94s is 65= 2300, versus 3200 with 4.10s. That's 900 stinking rpm. And 2300 is about the lowest rpm that you can still optimize the cruise-timing, with the factory-type distributor.
3) now, to see these roadgears on paper looks like this;

10.91-7.87-5.74-4.10 Your current A833/4.10 combo
------- 7.82-5.64-4.12-2.94 the Regular A833/2.94s
---- 9.08----5.64-4.12-2.94 the Commando/2.94s
>Notice how close 9.08 is to 10.91. the difference is 17% , but 9.08/2.66=3.41 and that is how it will take off... like it had 3.41s
>Notice how the 2.94s trade away the 10.91 blast-off gear, to get the 2.94 cruiser.

Holy crap. Thanks for putting together all of this analysis. It's going to take me a bit to wrap my head around this but I'm getting your drift. I never considered anything as low as 2.94s but you got me thinking!

If your stroker has been dyno'd can you post the results. That will tell you what gear you need depending on how you are going to use it.

Yeah. It came with a dyno sheet. I will try to get a picture up this evening. Thanks!
 
I have a rr with a factory 4.10 dana and a 727. I didn't consider a 3.54 swap, cause I didn't think the difference was worth the cost. Now that 3.23s are available, I'm reconsidering. (I lprobably won't, it's a real A12)
I've got a primarily bracket car that gets street driven occasionally, with 3.91s. Perfect for this car. Has had 4.11 and 4.56s in it, runs exactly the same with 3.91 so why beat it up with too much gear?
I have 3.50s in a big block powered Opel, but that may change. (Nine inch)
Next project is a 511 in a notch barracuda. 3.23s will be the choice there, It won't need any gear to run good. I'd run 2.94s if I could find new gears, pretty sure they don't exist (maybe oem dealer? I don't know).
 
I had 4.10 gears in the Barracuda for about a month, pulled them and traded them off. I could not get traction at all, I don't know how you guys with big motors keep traction on the street with a car made to take corners.

Once you go over 500ft lbs on a street car, if you aren’t breaking traction you are probably breaking something else. Better to fry the tires than the clutch/u joints IMO.
 
So your MPH is 145-150?
Negative, and I’m glad you chimed in.

10.6@128 3800 pounds with driver
Roots blown SB, 6PSI of boost
100 shot of N20
DOT drag tires
727 RMVB with a brake
3:55 Spool

I’m thinking I’m blowing through the converter.

I’m traction limited (1.8 60’ time) and have started out in 2nd gear a few times. Doing that caused me to cross the line at 7000RPM’s…. Like I’m running out of gear doing that…
 
Negative, and I’m glad you chimed in.

10.6@128 3800 pounds with driver
Roots blown SB, 6PSI of boost
100 shot of N20
DOT drag tires
727 RMVB with a brake
3:55 Spool

I’m thinking I’m blowing through the converter.

I’m traction limited (1.8 60’ time) and have started out in 2nd gear a few times. Doing that caused me to cross the line at 7000RPM’s…. Like I’m running out of gear doing that…


Yep, you are blowing right through your converter.

You should be crossing at 5500-5800 RPM with that gear and MPH.

So you are definitely blowing through that converter.
 
Man, I'd love to try a 2.94 rear with my 833 stick. I'm almost salivating just thinking about winding out 1st gear getting on the highway. That would be about 60mph @5600, 100mph @3500!
 
Man, I'd love to try a 2.94 rear with my 833 stick. I'm almost salivating just thinking about winding out 1st gear getting on the highway. That would be about 60mph @5600, 100mph @3500!
100 mph @ 3500 rpm in 1st?
 
If I was to gear it, if I ever planned to take to the track now and then, I'd pick one of the gears to reach hp peak rpm at peak mph and say I didn't want 4th to be that deep it would be 3rd, if it was never to see the track I gear it to hit hp peak at mph I'd want to crank it to once and while eg. 80-100 mph in second or third. Probably 100 mph in 3rd.
 
If your stroker has been dyno'd can you post the results. That will tell you what gear you need depending on how you are going to use it.

2E75C53D-D15C-4E4F-B846-C383E0FE6683.jpeg
 
if you got 27in tires 3rd gear would put you about 5600 rpm at 100 mph, you could think of it as a 3 speed during a full throttle run. or 3.55 about 5525 rpm at 90 mph.
 
I commuted 4.5 hours one way On the interstate to college for years with a 4.10 gear and 26” tires. Luckily it was with full exhaust lol. I run a 3.73 with a GV OD and 28” these days.
 
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