Finally figured out getting the Z bar to work on my 64 273/4 speed Dart. Bought one from Brewers. They sell a modified Z bar that works with the newer bell housings and is the correct length and OD.
Z Bar Sollution
- Thread starter dart4forte
- Start date
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66dartgt
Well-Known Member
Do they make any parts to adapt the z bar to a lakewood bellhousing ??
I didn't see one on their site
Got the early A body V8 Z bar last week. Good quality work
moparlee
64 Valiant
I noticed that when I got the orginal clutch fork from them for the early A's that I got last week that they had that stuff. I would like to go with the Lakewood bell one of the days, but I do think that it's cool that they offer that hole set up like that to take the newer stuff, cause if I didn't have the orginal stuff from a donar car back in 94 then I would need to go with the newer stuff which is a lot better deal than what I've got now, but..........
They also have the 65 and down shifter boots also. Cheapest I found so far.
Lee
They also have the 65 and down shifter boots also. Cheapest I found so far.
Lee
moparlee said:
Yeah, kinda nice not to have to cut up a good Z bar to make the set-up work. Did you reinforce the mount on the inner fender. Looks like that may be a weak link if you use a heavy clutch. I'm also going to build firewall brace for the clutch.
I modified a Z Bar from a donor car by slicing a portion out of the center and reorienting the arms so they align with the newer bell housing. I originally used the 273 clutch release fork with a diaphragm style clutch because the force required for the diaphragm clutch is so much less. However, when I installed the new 360 motor I went with a Borg & Beck Scallop clutch and had to use the longer clutch fork (additional fulcrum for the higher force required), it points downward unlike the 273 fork. I havent reinforced the body mounting yet but will over the winter. Has anyone modified this mounting location yet? Went to Brewers and didnt see the 64-65 boot, mine came from Laysons (was very expensive), I did notice older style speedometer pinions but not 21 tooth.
moparlee
64 Valiant
Here you go.
http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SB636
Oh, no I haven't stiffen the fender. Anybody got pictures of doing this?
Lee
http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SB636
Oh, no I haven't stiffen the fender. Anybody got pictures of doing this?
Lee
Thanks Lee, Laysons cost about the same price but when nothing else is a functional replacement I guess the cost is not really an issue. I remember back in the mid seventies I ordered a replacement from a local Chrysler dealer, at the time they said it was the last available from there warehouse.
Blues65 said:
My thought is to make a brcket and fit it to the outer part of the inner fender. That way the thin sheet metal is sandwiched between the two sides. If you look at the later A bodies (67-70) the pivot point actually bolts to the inner fender with a bracket/plate reinforcement on the outer side. My early A body mod is similar to that. I still need to scrape some undercoating off to make it fit flush.
Hi Dart4forte
I think thats the only thing that makes much sense maybe weld it in place once its bolted through the fender to the bracket. I have an extra body side bracket in my parts box I can use it to cut and drill the plate.
I think thats the only thing that makes much sense maybe weld it in place once its bolted through the fender to the bracket. I have an extra body side bracket in my parts box I can use it to cut and drill the plate.
Blues65 said:
With the 67-70 plate being a single bolt hole maybe weld up the hole and then redrill the three holes. The plate looks to have enough meat
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